Originally Posted by jcurtisis
Thanks for the discharge chart! Looks like we had it down to 30% (measured it just as sun was creeping up, so it may have had a bit of influence from the solar panels, but not much. I also didn’t start at 14.4V, so my next test will be following me setting the PD9245C converter into the “boost” mode with the pendant I installed. Last test I forgot to time how long it takes to get back up to 14.4V.
The LP switch “anti-vampire” device is built by a fellow winnieowner blogger Alan Skiper ([email protected]
); it consists of parallel connections of resistor and capacitor with appropriately sized spade connectors. It simply plugs into the back of the switch. Alan charges $45 for the device...or you can do what Grandpa Ron does and make it yourself (see https://youtu.be/Xdo3LK4qJS4
). I’m still waiting to get it in the mail; I’ll do a before and after comparison once it arrives.
As a way to reduce power used by the LP cut-off switch mechanism (aka, a power Vampre): DON’T USE THE RESISTOR/CAPACITOR TYPE DEVICE. The one I got from Alan Skiper (see quote above) quickly got wicked hot and the failed with an audible “pop”. Alan sent me a replacement which had the EXACT SAME RESULT. So, $45 lesson learned: don’t try this. Even Grandpa Ron emailed me that he doesn’t use this type either.
Several others pointed me instead to a “DC-DC Converter” method. I just installed such a device to the Propane cutoff switch that lowers the power used by the switch to keep the valve open. The unit cost me $75 from Leonard Casella and came with very easy instructions. I did need to get a multi-tool ($40 on Amazon) to cut a square hole in the monitor panel just below the Propane cutoff switch (pictured below- needed a small cutting blade; $5 at Harbor Freight). Every fit easily in place and looks very professional when done. If interested I have additional pictures of how the wires hook onto the water tank heater (for the ground), as well as how the device connects into the old propane switch and the new one. I verified the generator works while the low power switch is on AND when it is off. Woo hoo! No high heat, and the second switch preserves the life of the converter module as you reall don’t “need” it if you are on shore power or have the engine on.