Strange Electiral Issue 2007 Itasca Spirit

Blankster · 12-18-2021, 08:53 AM

Good morning and thank you in advance for any assistance. I have a strange electrical issue which started last evening the first day into our trip.

I was replacing the regular 12 volt incandescent bulbs in our coach with LED bulbs and all where working great until I got to the lamp on the wall in the bedroom. When I took the old bulb out and put the new LED bulb in on one side all of the lights in the bedroom, bathroom, and shower went out. I took the bulb out and nothing came back on.

- I checked all the fuses under the fridge and they are all good
- I unscrewed and disconnected the power from the lamp just in case it was shorted.
- I removed all of the previously installed LED bulbs in case one of them shorted.

Also, when I try to the test button on the monitor panel all of the LED are reporting strange lights. What I mean is I know my tanks are pretty much empty and just the red full LED lights none of the ones below them. My fresh water level shows emply but I know the tank is full. Other observations

- Water pump works
- Step works
- Strange when I press the test button on the monitor panel and the Step is set to go out and in when door opens it will go out when the door is closed.

I replaced my LP gas monitor just before this trip as it was make a strange buzzing sound when I turned the house power on. Winnebago dealer said they are rated for 5 0 6 years so I installed a new one but haven't disconnected it yer to see it that might be the problem but I doubt it since it was plugged in before I started changing the bulbs.

The other lights in the coach are all working.

So now I am reaching out to see if anyone might have a suggestion on where to look next?

**Eagle5** · 12-18-2021, 09:27 AM

Hi Blankster,
In reviewing your Owner's Manual on page 6-8, I see that you have both fuses and circuit breakers for the 12 VDC system. Perhaps you might find a 12 VDC breaker which has popped? That panel seems to be located from an outside storage compartment.
I do know that some garage door openers do not allow LED 120 VAC bulbs in their power-heads due to interference with the wireless remote signal. I doubt that has anything to do with your situation, but who knows?
Welcome to the forum.
Eagle5

Blankster · 12-18-2021, 09:38 AM

Thank you for the reply. I knew about that access panel in the outside compartment and going to check that out once it gets a little warmer out this morning.

Morich · 12-18-2021, 12:39 PM

This is a case where you need to do some actual troubleshooting/testing with a meter. I would first want to check the bulbholder at the last light you checked for anything that looked strange like the holder being lose so that it moves/rotates as you replace the light bulb.That can cuse problems if the wires twist or move against the sides to make bare spots.
Then while having the fixture off the wall or ceiling, I would want to pull the wires out enough to check for anythings strange at the connection . Many fixtures have wires peramanently attached whne built and thenthose wires are connected to the wiring of the RV and that connect may be shoved back intot he space out of sight if we don't tug and look for it. But first it would be easier to check the bulbholder for power.

First thought might be that you actually have two seperate electrical problems. One is the lights and the second may befrom something shifting around and getting into the wires. Think of anything being loaded, moved, etc. when things went downhill as looking in that compartment might be a place to recheck?

One "quickie" test to tell you some small points is to try with the engine running as well as stopped, to help assure youi are not just looking at low batteries, etc. With the RV engine running both start and coach battery systems are connected together and charging from the engine alternator, so having it running will tell you if it might be something like a simple battery problem.

To do any checking on the drawings, we need to sort out which RV and there are no 32 foot listed but two different models of 31 foot? Maybe a check for which model you have will help narrow the search?
Wiring drawings are here but which? If unsure of model, there is often a label near the driver side or in cabinet with the exact info.
https://www.winnebago.com/Files/File...ram/Wiring.htm

Blankster · 12-18-2021, 01:41 PM

Thank you so much for the reply. Please see comments (BELOW)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Morich

This is a case where you need to do some actual troubleshooting/testing with a meter. (Unfortunately I left my meter at home but we are camping only about 30 minutes from home so I will get it when we get home tomorrow)I would first want to check the bulbholder at the last light you checked for anything that looked strange like the holder being lose so that it moves/rotates as you replace the light bulb.That can cuse problems if the wires twist or move against the sides to make bare spots. (I actually cut the wires off the fixture and taped them to take the fixture out of the equation)

Then while having the fixture off the wall or ceiling, I would want to pull the wires out enough to check for anythings strange at the connection . Many fixtures have wires peramanently attached whne built and thenthose wires are connected to the wiring of the RV and that connect may be shoved back intot he space out of sight if we don't tug and look for it. But first it would be easier to check the bulbholder for power. (pulled and wiggled wires with no change. I will check the voltage on the wires when I get home).

First thought might be that you actually have two seperate electrical problems. One is the lights and the second may befrom something shifting around and getting into the wires. Think of anything being loaded, moved, etc. when things went downhill as looking in that compartment might be a place to recheck? (I can't think of anything other then the LP sensor I replaced. Update on that is that it also doesn't seem to be working as the LED's and test button aren't working. I unplugged that and still no lights. Checked it's fuse and it looks good. Will check voltage on that also when I get home)

One "quickie" test to tell you some small points is to try with the engine running as well as stopped, to help assure youi are not just looking at low batteries, etc. With the RV engine running both start and coach battery systems are connected together and charging from the engine alternator, so having it running will tell you if it might be something like a simple battery problem. (I will try that however I have had the generator running and nothing changes on the situation I am having when it is running)

To do any checking on the drawings, we need to sort out which RV and there are no 32 foot listed but two different models of 31 foot? Maybe a check for which model you have will help narrow the search?
Wiring drawings are here but which? If unsure of model, there is often a label near the driver side or in cabinet with the exact info. (Thanks, I have a 1F331C. Manuals are in the cabinet but good to have the wiring diagram ever though I am not sure it will help)
https://www.winnebago.com/Files/File...ram/Wiring.htm

Morich · 12-18-2021, 03:32 PM

Okay, that about covers all my ideas for the moment. What led me to think some battery problem was the weird range of things not working right. Steps and monitor panel for hodling tanks plus lights, makes it hard to see any common wire for all those circuits???
That led to thinking how the circuit for step and holding tanks could get crossed and that leads to thinking mashed wiring shorting in some random way??/

I'm afraid you may have a bear by the tail, so do some checking and maybe get lucky??

When I get multiple items acting strange, I also lean toward a ground problem as it is common to so many different circuits and gets corroded really easy. Maybe a check at the ground bus bar might be an easy quick move??

Blankster · 12-18-2021, 04:56 PM

Thanks again for the reply. Yes a ground does seem to fit but without my meter it is going to be hard to test until I get home. What's really strange is that it is only affecting about 1/2 the lights and the panel. Maybe it's time for a new rig??? Don't think my wife will be open to that though so I either fix it or take her in to get fixed (the RV that is).

Morich · 12-22-2021, 07:38 AM

One way totest the ground faulty ideais to use a wiretosome point on the RV metallike the body, etc. and touch it to the ground wire point on some of the things not working to see if that makes them work.

Do be aware that you do need to besure ofwhich wireto ground as it can lead to more blown breakers/fuses if getting it on the worng place!!

Just an idea if sitting there with a roll of wire in hand?? Some days, just staying there real still is good,too!

7997redtail · 12-26-2021, 04:29 PM

I like the grounding suggestions. You could also disconnect the house battery negative to “reset” your electronics. I’m not familiar with your system but new systems have more IC type electronics and can benefit from having the power removed for 20 sec. To a minute.

kamphiker2 · 12-27-2021, 12:09 PM

I had a similar issue few years ago. It was a GROUND issue. The main ground buss bar on my 2006 Outlook (WF324V) is located just behind the battery box attached to the Chassis frame rail. Once I figured out I had a ground issue, I traced to the Buss Bar. Half of the Ground wires were corroded at the Ring terminal crimp.

This Ground issue drove me crazy for 2 - 3 days. Everything worked 100% until I decided to upgrade the bathroom vent fan to a Vortec., and then I lost most of the 12V lights in the rear (plus the vent fan Motor). Hooking up my Multi Meter and amp meter just puzzled the heck out of me. Finally thought it through and alligator clipped a good ground and then the light bulb in my head went off.

Morich · 12-27-2021, 03:01 PM

The problem may have been solved but this might be a time to "shotgun" a bit and take a look at the ground bar as an easier move. The 331C drawing shows the bus ground bar just behind the batteries, making it easy compared to chasing all the other potential involved!

Jakm · 12-27-2021, 04:29 PM

We were once homeless in an ‘03 Brave and one day lost all 12v lighting. Traced it down to a loose primary ground to the buss bar on the back of my 12v fuse panel that was located above the frig on that model. I removed the 4 screws holding the panel in and while pulling the panel out the lights came on.

dale57 · 12-27-2021, 05:51 PM

My bedroom fixture bulbs and some others are different from the overhead lights. When I tried to switch them out they shorted out and tripped breaker. They need longer reach bulbs.
You most likely have tripped 12 v beaker or blown fuse. That’s what I had happen.

7997redtail · 12-28-2021, 10:56 AM

After posting my advice earlier about grounding I went into the Win. Site to look up “all” the ground locations that would need to be serviced (planning on doing this before I have similar problems).

Not an easy task. I was hoping to find a “ground locations” drawing. That was a few days ago so, off the top of my head, there is

Main buss by the batteries has 6 connections labeled

Stud
house batteries
chassis battery

ASM-chassis ground terminals (and looks like three cables)

There is another ground at the generator
One note at about mid length going to the converter housing.

And look for one near any electrical appliance (????)?

There are lots of posts about these locations and I’m just going to spends some time and read them. Will keep you posted on what I eventually compile.

7997redtail · 12-28-2021, 11:35 AM

So, finding lots of interesting stuff. For the grounding locations I'll add

Under the dash (not too sure where but near steering Colum)
Left rear of frame

And a clarification for the converter grounds. I took the drawer out that is under my fridge. It is the closest access to the back of the converter. There is a lot of wiring in this space and a grounding buss. Cant remember how many wires were attached to it but i think you would find that it will also be attached to the chassis.

As for other information, I am an electrician and have always fought my way through Winnebago's wiring diagrams. Not easy to read. On that note I just came across the best description (from Win.) that I have so far seen. Link below. The help section Win. provides is VERY good so if i were you, and i did/do, spend a lot of spare time in there looking.

https://www.winnebago.com/Files/File...agram/Help.pdf

And finally, i came across this site (link below) that is a very good pictorial with the ability to click on an image to get more info on how its done/works. If you are not too electrically savvy this site will help. He built his own Van and explains how he did everything. Id hate to imaging how much time he has into this site so do take the time to look at it. His home page is the last link. I also like his listing of fuse/breaker, wire sizing etc.

Ineractive wiring page

https://faroutride.com/interactive-wiring-diagram/

Home page

https://faroutride.com/

Morich · 12-28-2021, 01:56 PM

When we look at the grounds on RV, it has some things that are common to most any wiring when looking at grounds.
In a normal house we have all the ground and neutral wires laid on strips in the box and tied together but then if we look at all the other things in the house there are also lots of other points where grounds are attached in one way or another. In the house, if it is plumbed with metal pipe, it is common to use that, where in an RV, the frame is often used. Same idea, just done differently because there is not often metal pipes handy in the RV.
But the whole idea is the same as it uses the idea of MGN ( multi grounded neutral) except there is no neutral on the DC side of things, just battery and ground.
I fully agree the Winnebago drawings are some of the harder that I've fought through. The biggest problem, once I got used to their style is the inconsistent way they name and label things, differing from the drawing to what may be put on the dash, etc. as well as they have lots of mistakes to fight through.
It took me a bit to find that "aux" on the dash might be the coach batteries as they consider them auxiliary batteries rather than coach batteries!