How Much Better Is 120V vs 110V?
So yesterday, in my RV park, I notice the AC power inside my coach is dropping to around the 108V mark.
So I go out the power pole and measure my 50A-Service and get L1=110 and L2=112.
So I think, no matter. My basement AC is not running; and this new portable AC can probably handle lower voltage better.
Then I realize, I just installed the extension cord, but I did not connect to the Circuit #2 outlet I just installed, because I have to get a 15A CB for 120V.
So, I connect the 50' extension to my portable AC to another 50' (14 gauge) extension cord, and I plug it into the 20A plug at the shore power box... and my portable AC starts running stronger and cooler.
And did I just witness the reasons why people swear by using a Hughes AutoFormer to boost voltage... as more and more RVs fill the park... and start running their ACs? ...ALL OFF CIRCUIT #1!!!!
That said, how do these transformers on the power pole that feed the RV Park with power work with respect to EVERYONE putting 90% of the load on L1?
How does that transformer (center-tap) work to balance power when the loads on L1 vs L2 are so much different?
So now I need some help from other people who understand this stuff better than me:
* Since P=VI. And V=IR. When the voltage drops from 120V to 110V, does that mean the current "I" goes up, because the portable AC power rating "P" does not change?
I.e., if Voltage drops 5%, does current go up ~8%? because the ratio of I-to-V is about 8% (10A/120V)?
* So why does my portable AC compressor run better (quieter and more efficient) at 120V vs 110V?
* Or is what I observed a byproduct of going through my ATS? ...Vs. using a direct plug-in with an extension cord?
What I am saying is that, to my surprise, my portable AC seems to be better off running with 100' of 14 gauge extension cord connected to the separate 20A outlet vs. going thru my 50A Service and ATS box.
Does this make sense and why?
|