Electric heater 2013 Adventurer 32H?

[bbudman]

Hi all, I'm new to motorhome, bought a used 2013 Adventurer H32. I think it has heat that works on propane and also has an option for electric heat. The propane works fine but when I use the electric heat comes out the bottom vents but the air conditioner comes on also out the top vents. Not sure what is going on with that. Any thoughts would be appreciated I think I got some wiring issues as another issue is when I turn on the hallway lights the TV'S go out. Very strange.

[wahoonc]

Typically the electric heat is a heat strip in the ceiling unit. Some may be heat pumps. To check you will need to find the documentation for your unit or get the model numbers off the roof units.

The gas furnace blower coming on with the electric heat setting is normal under certain conditions.

Aaron

[Morich]

I sense that this is a very new area and that means there will be a pretty steep learning curve that we all have to go through to get down the main ideas of what we have and how to operate it.
Way too much to guess at as we can damage stuff if not used correctly!
If you do not have the owners manual in the info bag, that can be found here:
https://www.winnebago.com/owners/own...r-manuals/2013

First step may be finding the way to sort out exactly which RV you have and which options it may have. Part of the book info will tell you how to determine what year and who built the chassis the RV is built on as that can be two different years!
Info on a label and how to find and read that label may be one of the more important things to know as it is the basic info needed to look at drawings or specs for any specific RV. Not all RV of the same year and model are the same, so knowing which you have is pretty critical, especially if you get into buying parts for the chassis which may be a different year than parts for the RV portion.
https://www.winnebago.com/owners/own...r-manuals/2013

Best of luck on the new RV and just know that most of us have been there and survived! It just takes some time and careful looking until we get a bunch of details worked out!

[bbudman]

Actually I was looking at the RV Comfort.zc. it switches between cool and heat and also gas heat and electric heat. I actually got the water heater on electric and the refrigerator. All that said I am new and got a lot to learn. Thanks for the links but I do have the manuals. The air conditioner is a Airxcel and that manual talks about cooling and heating so I think I should be able to switch between the propane and electric...hop all that makes sense.

[bigb]

Like Aaron said, if you have a heat pump the gas furnace will run till the temperature is within a couple of degrees of your setpoint. On mine the gas will run till the temp reaches within 2 degrees of the setpoint, then it will shut down and let the heat pump maintain the temperature. If the temperature again drops more than 2 degrees from the setpoint, the gas furnace will start again to help the heat pump catch up. This is necessary because a heat pump doesn't always work well in very cold temperatures and needs backup to maintain temperatures.
Of course if the gas furnace is disconnected, or the propane runs out, this won't happen.

[Morich]

Just as an added thought to head off some disappointment later, I might throw in an idea that I see catching lots of newer motorhome users as they come from other RV, like trailers.
Not knowing what you know or not, I like to mention the batteries and how we may damage them if we are not fully alert as there are some tricky points when we get around to storing the RV!

One is that the two groups of battery, chassis and coach are connected at times, like when we drive but disconnected when we shut off the engine. That can get us into thinking we can pull the RV in, plug in and leave the converter to charge both batteries. We can even find battery disconnect switches to disconnect the batteries so they don't run down!

That can ruin a set of batteries if we run them too far down and too long!

If we have no connection between the two, the converter won't charge the chassis! On some RV there is a small part to let some charge go from coach to chassis but many RV do not have this, so you need to check if you do or not!

Second item to know as a shock is that the disconnect doesn't disconnect ALL the load on either group! There are drains on each like the safety stuff on the coach that WILL run the batteries down if we are not watching. Propane and CO detectors are some of the small items left on, so just be alert and not trust what things look like without checking. That light under the steps? It's easy to plug in the RV, assume it'll be good as we turned everything off? Easy to miss seeing that light burning in the daytime and 30 days later we can't start the engine!

That first spring after storing can be a bummer if we don't check what the batteries are doing! !
Enjoy and not to worry it too much but try to avoid falling in the pit!