Help! 2021 micro 12v not supplying power

[MMouse]

First time owner here and 24 hours in.... I’m feeling like someone pulled a fast one and I’m hoping someone can help!
I have a new 2021 micro Minnie 1800bh and picked it up from a dealer in NE to tow a long way home. They added the battery to it the morning I picked it up, and I’m 1500 miles down the road now.

Battery is a standard 12V, power supply dial is set to “green”/on, battery shows charged on the TT storage hold reader thing (as I said... first timer here). However, Lights and outlets and stabilizers don’t work without shore power. Battery isn’t supplying any power to the TT.

The tongue jack apparently had a sticky button so the manager replaced it with a whole new jack before I drove off, and that also is doing something strange where when I push “up” it goes down or vice versa.

Essentially, I can’t unhitch, or dry camp, with any power.

I did a video chat with the dealer and he directed me to a small covered wire bundle bolted to the frame near the hitch, with an itty bitty little black dot on the side he said was a 12V reset button. It doesn’t depress or release.... doesn’t appear to be a button at all (??).
Help, and thank you in advance!! I’m wondering what in the world I’ve gotten myself into.

[Morich]

I can't find it currently as it has been a couple days but I "think" you are referring to a small breaker that has been in the forum discussion lately.
In a metal box up under the frame and the box is filled with wires so that seeing the button is near impossible?
The breaker has to posts sticking up and the reset button on the side ?
In the discussion i remember it did cut most of the power to the trailer. So it you have the same and the reset is not holding when you push it in, it says you have a major short in the wiring that makes the breaker trip OR the breaker is not any good any more.
Adding this together with the obvious problem with the jack wiring, I would have to say ----they messed you up!

One way to deal with a breaker that won't hold has some hazard involved as they are meant as safety devises and are designed to protect us from bad wiring. But to get power to the jacks, if we go with the idea that the breaker is defective, we can put a wire across the two lugs and eliminate the breaker safety! NOT something I recommend for long term use but as a way to get the jack down to unhitch, a set of alligator clips on a smallish wire may get you unhitched and then I would certainly be on the dealers case about getting me a repair.

However this is a super super busy time for RV repair and I would not bet a nickle on getting anything done soon!

If the jumper wire appears to make the circuit good, I might lean toward going to a parts store with the breaker in hand and trying to match it--- to get me back n use, even though we should not have to do the work that some dealer messed up!!!

Danged if you do- double danged if you don't????

[MMouse]

Originally Posted by Morich

I can't find it currently as it has been a couple days but I "think" you are referring to a small breaker that has been in the forum discussion lately.
In a metal box up under the frame and the box is filled with wires so that seeing the button is near impossible?
The breaker has to posts sticking up and the reset button on the side ?
In the discussion i remember it did cut most of the power to the trailer. So it you have the same and the reset is not holding when you push it in, it says you have a major short in the wiring that makes the breaker trip OR the breaker is not any good any more.
Adding this together with the obvious problem with the jack wiring, I would have to say ----they messed you up!

One way to deal with a breaker that won't hold has some hazard involved as they are meant as safety devises and are designed to protect us from bad wiring. But to get power to the jacks, if we go with the idea that the breaker is defective, we can put a wire across the two lugs and eliminate the breaker safety! NOT something I recommend for long term use but as a way to get the jack down to unhitch, a set of alligator clips on a smallish wire may get you unhitched and then I would certainly be on the dealers case about getting me a repair.

However this is a super super busy time for RV repair and I would not bet a nickle on getting anything done soon!

If the jumper wire appears to make the circuit good, I might lean toward going to a parts store with the breaker in hand and trying to match it--- to get me back n use, even though we should not have to do the work that some dealer messed up!!!

Danged if you do- double danged if you don't????

Thanks so much for the quick insight. Wondering if anyone has pictures of what their 2021 micro battery wiring looks like on the frame? That may help me. Yes, my apparent “button” aka tiny bit of black plastic is to the right of a rubber cover just like in this diagram.
However. I also have a black reset button under the battery cover itself, and that is depressed and can’t be released, either. Very strange.

[Morich]

Okay, yet another new item that I have not seen before!!! NOT what I was referring to on the other post, so we need to start fresh.

Does that look like a rubber cover that could be pulled off to see a fuse inside? Am I confusing the issue by thinking that the two stubs sticking up might only be the tops of binding post/lugs covered with a red plastic shield?
Maybe a flat fuse rather than a circuit breaker?

Or is it something like this and using the red cover added part? This indicates it is auto reset, so would not have a button to push.

https://www.amazon.com/Short-Circuit...a-599334113924

We really do need somebody that has the same make and model to come along and tell us what they have!!
Sorry, new one to me.

[Marine359]

It might be a long trip, but I’d opt for taking it back to the dealer. This isn’t something a new owner should have to fix by trial and error, and at his own expense. The OP may not even have the right tools to do the job. Sounds like a short to me. Finding it with a multimeter could be very time consuming, and may not be the only short. Recommend you call ahead to dealer, and ask them to compensate you for fuel and hotel if they will need to keep it overnight.

[Morich]

Originally Posted by Marine359

It might be a long trip, but I’d opt for taking it back to the dealer. This isn’t something a new owner should have to fix by trial and error, and at his own expense. The OP may not even have the right tools to do the job. Sounds like a short to me. Finding it with a multimeter could be very time consuming, and may not be the only short. Recommend you call ahead to dealer, and ask them to compensate you for fuel and hotel if they will need to keep it overnight.

Fully agree with this but I also know from reading that it is not very likely to happen as dealers are currently overrun with business and just not inclined to work with problems, just go snag another deal!

The current thinking seems to be one of "get it when you can" and deal with any bad relations later!

[Marine359]

Originally Posted by Morich

Fully agree with this but I also know from reading that it is not very likely to happen as dealers are currently overrun with business and just not inclined to work with problems, just go snag another deal!

The current thinking seems to be one of "get it when you can" and deal with any bad relations later!

OP just bought a new RV from them. Can’t imagine a dealer wouldn’t give first priority to him. If that were to happen to me, I’d be all up in the dealer’s grill, ready to open a can of whoopass. Fortunately most dealers are not so callous...some might be. For them, it’s the can opener.

[MMouse]

Originally Posted by Marine359

OP just bought a new RV from them. Can’t imagine a dealer wouldn’t give first priority to him. If that were to happen to me, I’d be all up in the dealer’s grill, ready to open a can of whoopass. Fortunately most dealers are not so callous...some might be. For them, it’s the can opener.

Thanks for all the info and thoughts here. Unfortunately I’m a single parent at the moment and it’s a 1600 mile trip....one way.. I haven’t hooked it up to shore power yet (just got it home today) but that’s my next step tomorrow, as all electronics did appear to work when it was hooked to a 30amp at the dealer. I’ll also call the original dealer AGAIN and asking for compensation. Next step is the nasty reviews, calling their corporate office, and I was even considering putting a stop pay on the down payment check I left with them when I picked it up but not sure if that’s going too far. I left a VM for the local Winnebago servicing dealer but I’ve heard that they may not see me until the season ends since I didn’t purchase there. Has anyone had any luck calling Winnebago directly?

Also, anyone have pictures of a 2021 12v wiring around the frame?

Thanks x a million again for the support.

[creativepart]

I understand your frustration. It’s reasonable to feel this way, but before going too far might I suggest that you contact a local RV mobile tech to come to you and fix your problem. It’s likely not an extensive issue and someone with RV repair experience can get things back to normal without too much trouble or cost.

It’s true that you might have to eat this cost, but if you contact either the selling dealer or Winnebago you may be able to arrange reimbursement.

What you are experiencing with the local dealer is common and something out of the control of Winnebago. But they do usually try to help so give them a call.

Be pragmatic, get it working and enjoy it.

I did a simple Google search for “RV Mobile Tech, Portland , OR” and found a number of them in your area. Here’s just one:

http://www.mobilervrepair.com/

[Morich]

Originally Posted by creativepart

I understand your frustration. It’s reasonable to feel this way, but before going too far might I suggest that you contact a local RV mobile tech to come to you and fix your problem. It’s likely not an extensive issue and someone with RV repair experience can get things back to normal without too much trouble or cost.

It’s true that you might have to eat this cost, but if you contact either the selling dealer or Winnebago you may be able to arrange reimbursement.

What you are experiencing with the local dealer is common and something out of the control of Winnebago. But they do usually try to help so give them a call.

Be pragmatic, get it working and enjoy it.

I did a simple Google search for “RV Mobile Tech, Portland , OR” and found a number of them in your area. Here’s just one:

Home

I like this idea, especially for the current sales landscape where the dealers are overrun.

While it is true that they should do better, a hard approach is not one that works very often for me but actually can set the heels into a place where we are certain to lose as we have so little leverage.
In this case, all they would have to do is offer to take care of it, knowing that you are not going to do that, they are then done for the legal part and you are stuck as that is a dead end.

This is a time when we see way too many demanding things they are not going to get, no matter how many fairytales they tell themselves and it is just way smarter to accept what is real and forget the fairy tales of what we think should happen.

A nice approach may get some real compensation as you do certainly deserve it, while a big fight is more likely to just get you heartburn!

Reviews? Those are as much a part of the fairy tales as anything else out on the net!

[MMouse]

Good advice, though I’m usually not one to back down from a complaint when there’s significant time and money invested. I did switch gears a bit and found a highly rated (better ratings than any dealer here!) local third party Winnebago repair shop that can see me this week, and I have a call out to the dealer to make sure they can foot the bill. If they can’t, we’ll, I’ll air my frustration on Google reviews, give their GM a call, and start turning my attention to getting ready for the season ahead. Sure does make a difference to talk to a friendly helpful service provider and get a morale boost from fellow campers! Time to remember the adage “the only difference between ordeal and adventure is attitude” and plan on this being a bumpy start I’ll laugh about someday around a campfire in front of the Minnie.
**I’ll post the results of the upcoming service appt once I get them**

[Florida88]

Hi MMouse:
Did you solve this situation? I had the exact same problem when I first received delivery of my brand new 2108DS. Other than being extremely frustrated that my brand new rig was “broken” and the dealer was no help, it was an amazingly simple fix. There are 2 relays on the frame rail. One has a tiny black reset button. Once I found the button it solved the problem. Much easier than dragging the trailer back to the dealer. DM me if you need me to send a picture of the relay.

[MMouse]

Originally Posted by Florida88

Hi MMouse:
Did you solve this situation? I had the exact same problem when I first received delivery of my brand new 2108DS. Other than being extremely frustrated that my brand new rig was “broken” and the dealer was no help, it was an amazingly simple fix. There are 2 relays on the frame rail. One has a tiny black reset button. Once I found the button it solved the problem. Much easier than dragging the trailer back to the dealer. DM me if you need me to send a picture of the relay.

Sorry to hear you’ve had the same headaches! Is the button the little black one shown here? If so, that button doesn’t depress or release on my rig. May as we’ll be a flush piece of stationary plastic. Here is a picture of mine.

[Florida88]

Yes. That’s it. Mine pushes horizontally ever so slightly. There is no spring or resistance feel - it’s just loose feeling, like it’s doing nothing at all.

If this doesn’t work, have you checked the battery to be sure it is charged and connected (you mentioned they made a last minute switch). In my case, the tongue jack worked, but nothing “downstream” of the relay. If your jack doesn’t work, you might actually have a dead battery. (By the way, my battery box was full of water - I had to drill a few holes in the bottom).

I called Winnebago roadside assistance number (sticker on the inside of my screen door), and they were able to get a tech on the line with me who helped to solve the problem.

I hope you find this to be an easy fix - once you do, you will love your MM - I promise!

[Morich]

Since we've gone in all kinds of directions, have you done any more to verify that this is, in fact, the cause of things not working? Sounds odd perhaps, but I've found it doesn't always pay to take what the dealers and remote folks say is the problem as being the total answer!

If a meter is not on hand, can you get one, rig a test light to test the breaker or imagine other ways to verify it is the problem?

If you pull the red cover, does it flip off like the one shown to let you find two lugs, one being in and one out?

The safer way to go would be to use a meter or test light, to touch the frame, which is ground and the other probe or wire to first one side of the breaker and then the other. If the meter or light shows one side lights the light or has voltage but not the second side, that will tell you power is reaching this item but not going through it and it is defective or not resetting if it should.

A bit more bold but okay if done pretty quickly, is to make some temporary connection from one side to the other to prove it makes things work! If an old pair of pliers is on hand or a wire that you could hold with pliers, one could short the two lugs together just long enough to verify it solves the problem on something like a light.

Danger here, so make sure to question this if not clear!!!!
The idea of the breaker is that it trips and cuts off power if there is a true problem and that is safety to keep from melting wires or doing more damage! But if we have a way to look at a light, know it is turned on and then we use a wire to short the lugs together, we can quickly get an answer as to it solving the problem or not and do it long before the wires will melt, etc or any of those bad things.
Before recommending this, I want to warn of what CAN happen if there is a true problem in the trailer and it IS drawing lots of current.

Reason for using plier to hold the wire is that a real short may make the wire get so hot, so quick that it burns your fingers before you turn loose of it!!! Expect possible sparks and don't jump too high to hit the head!

Main idea is that IF a wire across the two lugs makes things work, the part is not likely to be a real expensive item and then you can make a better informed decision of what you want to do. One choice would be to check local auto parts shops for a replacement???

If I'm in the middle of total chaos in my plans or spending less than ten dollars to clear the problem, spending the money, even though not what we should have to do, may be the lesser of two evils.

Old farmers used to replace blown fuses with pennies but they also burned the house down sometimes, so we want to do something less dramatic but still get it done!

Sorry , not seeing a real good solution.

[MMouse]

Good news!
Got ahold of the GM at the out of state dealership (thank you Google), who was the first voice of reason there yet... apologized, said they would pay for the fix. Heard back from the third party tech today and they said it was a bad breaker (came bad from the factory). $150 fix. I’m not sure where that breaker was located or how it was changed but I plan on asking when I pick it up, and reporting back here!

[Morich]

Just a guess from what you have said, but if the little button did not have any resistance or "bounce" when pressed, that sounds like a suspect!
Glad to hear you get a reasonable person to talk to at least and got it fixed!