Batteries Dead in storage 2016 Vista LX 30T

[Lakejumper]

My RV has been in storage for awhile. When I went to check it, all of the batteries were dead. The trickle charge solar panel wasn’t getting enough sunlight. The battery switches were green so I thought that I may have left them on which is a strong possibility. However, I couldn’t switch them off. They kept showing green. Why is this?

I’m going back with my lithium jump starter pack to try and start it up and get the gennie running. I have no AC plug to charge it up without driving it home.

[Eagle5]

Hi Lakejumper,
If you have the original Lead-Acid batteries in there, they are now eight years old and probably due for replacement.
Eagle5

[Lakejumper]

Eagle, thank you for the quick reply. Well, the starter pack wasn’t strong enough. But, I did get her started using jumper cables. Everything good with the gennie now running and charging up batteries. That batteries are relatively new AGM sealed.

[Morich]

Things to confuse us but we need to know?
One big item is that the chassis battery does not get charged from the converter operation if we are plugged in if there is not some added method beyond what most of our RV have.
A few models of Winnebago came with an item to handle this called, Trik-L-Start or Trik-L-Charge, however those are not available at last I have read. I would assume your RV does not have one installed until verified.
Two is that almost all RV will have "parasitic drains" which are small battery drains which are not disconnected by the battery disconnect switches!
Most RV will have drains on both chassis and coach batteries that will run them down when stored, even with the disconnect switch used!
Items considered safety items will be left powered. These can be CO and propane detectors and steps. Radio presets, auto items like locks and ignition are all drains on the chassis battery.

When you found the disconnect would not turn on/off when the battery was weak/dead, that is normal, due to design.
The disconnect switch doesn't act directly to open the path, but it controls a special type relay. The relay is a "latching" relay which moves only when we press the momentary switch the correct direction, then the relay latches in that position, even when we let the switch go back to the normally open position.
You might look the next chance and see the disconnect switch doesn't stay operated but seems to "bounce back" when you release it?
That momentary action let us use battery to move the latching relay to engage or disengage but then stop using battery power when released as a way to make battery power last longer.
Result is that we can't engage/disengage the disconnect if we don't have enough battery power to move it!

Point that may/may not help and you may already know about? When the RV engine is running or when we push the boost or aux switch on the dash, both chassis and coach battery groups are connected together. If wanting to put a quick charge into both groups, leaving the engine running ties both to the alternator as a way to get some charge into both???

This may not be a long term thing to leave the engine running for 6-8 hours but it can work as a handy way to add a "little" bit to both from the big old alternator. If using a stand alone charger, one way to deal with getting charge to both group, is to wedge the dash switch engaged as a method to connect the two groups together!
It is a momentary switch but wedging some small wooden item like a chopstick may hold it operated?

When wanting to charge, it is often easier/quicker to get the RV engine started than the generator which can take much more cranking before firing. Once the engine is running, there should be much more power to crank the genset much longer as you have both battery groups connected to the running alternator!

[Lakejumper]

Notice, thank you for the detailed explanation and info. It’s very helpful. My gennie and alternator charges all of the batteries.

[Morich]

OK! You are right at the breaking point where they changed from a "mode solenoid" which needed added items to make it charge the chassis battery and moved to a Battery Isolation Manager (BIM)!
The BIM is one that I have mixed feelings about. It seems to be much improved and tend to give less trouble as it is more solid state design than older electro-mechanical type. Works better, lasts longer but not as easy to diagnose due to not being able to hear or feel it click!

Old methods die hard!

There are some great drawings and plans online if it is a field you like to chase.
Electrical drawings here but more info on serial number to sort early year build or later is needed to get exact set.
Serial number having 7th digit of 1 is early build or 2 for later year build!
https://www.winnebago.com/Files/File...ram/Wiring.htm

If you sort to the correct group and then go to "chassis electrical box", you can get the two types and I think for the 30t, it will be on page 2??

Do you have battery disconnect switches for both chassis and coach? That would seem to prove out having the BIM?

One might also be able to check which system you have by peeking in under the fuse panel outside on the driver's side near the front?
Possibly looks like this, with the red item shown being the BIM with disconnect relays on each side of it?
This drawing from the interactive parts catalog here:
https://catalog3d.winnebagoind.com/menu/Parts.htm
Click this snip to get a better view?