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Old 05-03-2022, 08:13 AM   #21
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Join Date: Aug 2020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by creativepart View Post
Madmaxwinny, that’s a bad link. I’d fix it for you but don’t know which combiner yo want to link to.
It's the Magnum Energy. West Marine SKU #10161958
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Old 06-15-2022, 01:06 PM   #22
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Join Date: Jul 2021
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Hello to all.

Following this thread as I'm in the same boat with a faulty solenoid. I've been to the solenoid and all my meter readings tell me the contacts are faulty so time for something new.

Looking at the Magnum, I just wanted to know if anyone knows for sure if it is truly bi-directional charging: When the alternator is working it charges the house batteries and when I'm on shore power, it charges the Engine battery.

Has anyone integrated this with a solenoid so the emergency battery switch can still connect the batteries in the event one of them dies?

Thanks in advance!
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Old 06-29-2023, 05:34 PM   #23
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Location: Ft. Walton Beach, FL
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I’m am surely no expert but I’m pretty sure the solenoid only engages when the engine is running or you engage the starting boost switch on the dash. When you’re on shore power or you’re using the generator the converter charges the coach batteries but not the chassis battery. The boost switch would not be engaged automatically by either one of those. Curious if you found an off the shelf solenoid at a parts store that worked for you.
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Old 06-29-2023, 07:01 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rishon View Post
I’m am surely no expert but I’m pretty sure the solenoid only engages when the engine is running or you engage the starting boost switch on the dash. When you’re on shore power or you’re using the generator the converter charges the coach batteries but not the chassis battery. The boost switch would not be engaged automatically by either one of those. Curious if you found an off the shelf solenoid at a parts store that worked for you.
Right on the way the solenoid works. One thing that can catch folks is that the dash switch is "momentary" and it only stays operated as long as we hold it!
We can't push it and then go back to check the voltage as the solenoid drops off as soon as we let go of the switch.
But that line from the dash gets power two different ways. One is the switch when we want to "boost" a weak chassis battery.

Or when we start the engine, there is a connection from what they call "ignition hot" which also operates the solenoid as we drive and that gets a bit of charge back into the coach battery!
If it is totally dead, we may have to drive 8-10 hours but it should work on getting "some" charge.
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Old 06-29-2023, 07:21 PM   #25
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Yes, had the wife hold the switch down while testing the solenoid.

Any tips for an automotive solenoid that may be available at a local automotive parts store?
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Old 06-30-2023, 07:44 AM   #26
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This is kind of a basic parts and solenoids are common, so the things to look for are the voltage being 12VDC , then I look at how what I have is mounted and wired as it is easier to go back with the same. Some are concerned with getting the very best but I tend to go for the quick and easy find on things that cost so little and lasted 15-20 years!!
I figure if it fails in ten, I'm not here to worry the issue!
But I do want a three post to replace three or four post to replace if I have four!
And I DO look for the higher amperage rating, rather than a lower rated for continuous duty. Yes, I will pay five dollars more for a higher rated if they have both!

But what you get on many RV is like this snip of the drawings fro your RV.
https://catalog3d.winnebagoind.com/menu/Parts.htm
Going down to the electrical and then to chassis wiring, we can get a picture of what you have as well as a parts number if wanting to go to RV parts. Searching the part number will often turn up dealers of that part number.
RV parts are often more expensive than standard auto parts but that is personal shopping choice!

BUT--Before changing, it pays to test and on this three lug type (some have four) the test is easy to do. You should have chassis battery on one big side lug and coach battery on the other big one. When the button inside is pushed it puts 12 VDC on the small lug and the solenoid should "thump" as it closes.

An easy test is to hold some metal part or wire on the big left lug to the center lug. That puts 12V to the coil and it should thump! If you leave it operated and look at the voltage on left and right, they should be very near the same as they are connected inside the solenoid!

No thump? solenoid coil may be bad OR the mounting screws may not be making good contact as they are used for ground on the three lug type. Check they are giving good ground before replacing the solenoid!

Thump but the left and right don't read the same voltage? Likely the solenoid contacts inside are burned corroded and not making good contact. Replace the solenoid!

But it pays to always keep in mind that the most common failure is not the parts but the connections which corrode so easy on RV. If the solenoid test good and the voltage is not getting to the battery, look for connections along the cables and clean them.
On a 2015 Vista, there was a mega fuse on the frame just behind the front wheel that sure looked like a blob of road oil!!

Click these snips to get the best view!
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