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Old 02-24-2021, 06:03 PM   #21
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Motor

I have a 2018 Sunstar 32YE . Had the same issue with the living room slide. Stuck in Myrtle Beach and slide went out only one one side. Called mobile repair service. When those motors were made there was no rubber covering on the top. Heavy rain and moisture got in and damaged motor. The replacement motor is covered completely with a rubber type condom. They only had one in stock otherwise I would replace both. Did get reimbursed by Winnebago.
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Old 02-25-2021, 02:58 AM   #22
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I believe the gentleman (owner/repair person) in the aforementioned video (MyRV Works) is out of WA, and is available via phone for consult. This is at a cost of course but probably worth it. I've watched many of his videos and would trust his information. I ave never used him, and don't know him so it's not an endorsement, just a suggestion.
I very much agree with your decision not to work on it while on the road.
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Old 02-25-2021, 11:59 AM   #23
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I currently have the same problem as you, although I have the Lippert SlimRack system. My rear motor went out and the slide is in. There is no way I can get to the screws on the inside to remove the trim to access the motor. I finally gave up and got it in to a shop that hopefully can reach it. Only way I might have been able to do it was to remove the wood trim and squeeze in between the slide and the bedroom wall. The front one would have been a breeze because it's easy to access behind the DW's passenger seat. Good luck and let us know how it worked out.
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Old 02-26-2021, 11:17 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JerryP View Post
UrbanTarzan, I have limited experience with this problem. But... I watched the video and it seems that if the slide has not been extended, you should have access to the motor from inside the coach. First you will need to go outside the coach and remove the motor retention bolt. Then you should be able to remove the motor from the inside. I have only seen the video and have no real experience with this issue. I think I have the same slide in my View.

Good Luck, Jerry
Hi and Thanks Jerry , We just got home from our trip so I'll be tackling this full on starting tomorrow. I'll post pictures and updates as i go and hopefully be able to give definitive solutions to someone in the future.
Ive watched all the videos , read all the how to's , and contacted Winnebago and Lippert .
According to both of them...
In the event of a bad motor, or a complete wiring disconnect, in other words .. the motor is not responding to the board in any way , the recommended procedure is to disengage the motor(s) and push the slide in or out depending on your situation.
At face value this is a very simple thing to accomplish, remove interior trim and pull back gasket, remove set screw/bolt/spring retention depending on what you have and lift the motor about an inch to disengage. SIMPLE RIGHT? Nope!!
When the slide is closed , the wall of the slide is right up against the back wall of the coach, there is a 3" gap, 4 feet long that you must reach between to access the motor, if you happen to have the model with the set screw on the outside of the coach you are going to have to also remove the trim around your slide on the exterior to access that screw... this alone is a daunting task .
If this happens with the slide open , you will probably have to ,at the very least, remove some interior trim to acces the motor(s) , you will have easy access to the set screw if its on the exterior. So now lets say you manage to disengage the motors with the slide open , and you need to push it closed to get home. You will need to put the motors back in to keep the slide closed during your drive. You cant access the exterior set screw with the slide now closed and in my case i cant reach the back of the slide to put the motor back in to hold the slide in.
I AM going to figure out how , in the event of a slide failure how to manipulate my slides in order to, at the very least , be able to get them closed and secure to travel either home or the nearest service .
Before i even start im pretty sure a set of manual slide lock bars are going to be a mandatory accessory to have at all times!
Ill keep y'all posted
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Old 02-26-2021, 02:08 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dalep View Post
I have a 2018 Sunstar 32YE . Had the same issue with the living room slide. Stuck in Myrtle Beach and slide went out only one one side. Called mobile repair service. When those motors were made there was no rubber covering on the top. Heavy rain and moisture got in and damaged motor. The replacement motor is covered completely with a rubber type condom. They only had one in stock otherwise I would replace both. Did get reimbursed by Winnebago.
Mine is the Lippert SlimRack also, i was able to run a snake camera in there and my motors have covers on them. They dont look rusty or wet but i cant see under the covers. Mine are the ones with the spring retention , no screw. Hopefully ill be able to get the motor out tomorrow.
My plan is to fashion a pry bar out of a long wood dowel , I should be able to remove the first trim piece with that . I have a super long Phillips head screwdriver that can reach the 2 motor cover screws in the rubber gasket then use whatever it takes to pull that out of the way. The tricky part is going to be prying the retention spring up and off its lip . Then use a long flat screw driver to pry the motor up and disengaged . At that point i should be able to walk out the good side with the motor and push out the bad side until i can reach the motor and pull it out.
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Old 02-28-2021, 03:27 AM   #26
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honestly would you want the slide to be able to come out with the motor engaged but dead - that would be equiv of coming out going down the road - BAD!! ???

IF you can use the likely provided long reach tools (assuming you have those) to crank it in, then why would it not just be the opposite turn direction to go out ?

my mh has kiwkee slide and they provide long access crank tools (like non elec awning tools) to turn the screw to pull it in (guessing it would go out using them too).

so give that a try and maybe have a couple guys pulling or pushing while - should help some.

GL!



Quote:
Originally Posted by UrbanTarzan View Post
Hi and thanks for the reply, yes i have the black bag and yes i read the emergency slide out instuctions which provide no instruction on how to open a stuck slide with a bad motor.
I want to open the slide so i can fix it, im resolved to the fact that i wont attempt to fix it until i get home but i still need to open it.
Lippert says disengage the motor to push out the slide... my question here is "is it possible to push it out without disengaging the motor and has anyone tried successfully?"
Indeed a nightmare !!
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Old 02-28-2021, 04:42 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by SmilingSimon View Post
honestly would you want the slide to be able to come out with the motor engaged but dead - that would be equiv of coming out going down the road - BAD!! ???

IF you can use the likely provided long reach tools (assuming you have those) to crank it in, then why would it not just be the opposite turn direction to go out ?

my mh has kiwkee slide and they provide long access crank tools (like non elec awning tools) to turn the screw to pull it in (guessing it would go out using them too).

so give that a try and maybe have a couple guys pulling or pushing while - should help some.

GL!
The suggestion was made that if you disconnect the motors the brake would release and you could push out the slide. Luckily for everyone this is not the case and that does not work .

There are no long reach manual crank tools for this type of design. The motor and gears run vertically in the wall .
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Old 02-28-2021, 04:58 AM   #28
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So i spent most of yesterday trying to get to the motor. Inspection of my other slideout revealed that my slide is not like ive seen in the countless videos ive watched. You cant just pull back the rubber to reveal the motor opening. I have a metal track that runs the length of the wall along the side of the slide that need to be removed . There are 18 screws, not just screws but sheet metal screws with some sort of thread lock on them . Ive got several free but some i just cant get enough push and torque while at full reach in the small space. Im going to buy some long screw drivers today and try again.
I was aslo able to remove the retension spring on the motor behind the rubber with a hook i fashioned from a coat hanger. If i fail with the screws my other option is to try to pry up the motor to disengage it and then work the slide out so i can better access the screws.
Ughhhh
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Old 02-28-2021, 05:56 AM   #29
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In these pictures
Red is the motor
Green is the width of the track that needs to be removed
Blue are the screws that need to be removed down the entire length of the track to remove the track

As you can see there is very little room to work
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Old 02-28-2021, 11:51 AM   #30
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I had similar issues with this system. Finally took it in to a repair shop. Very expensive.
I definitely feel your pain. There is no easy answer. I will never get this system again. .Good luck, hope you find a way to make the repairs
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Old 02-28-2021, 01:24 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by jeepster05 View Post
I had similar issues with this system. Finally took it in to a repair shop. Very expensive.
I definitely feel your pain. There is no easy answer. I will never get this system again. .Good luck, hope you find a way to make the repairs
After a trip to Harbor Freight for some long pry tools , long screw driver and this T-handle ratchet with a screw driver bit (yes thats blood on the t-handle) which proved invaluable, I got the panel off and the motor is in clear view!!
My first attempts to pry the motor up and free have failed , it wont budge , so im not home free yet but every step of this has had me googling RV repair places at one point or another and ive overcome the obstacles just before making a call.
Its been all day of trying and failing , trying and succeeding, failing , succeeding... accessing and getting all 19 screws out was not easy !!!
Taking a break and regrouping before going after the motor
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Old 02-28-2021, 02:23 PM   #32
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You’ve made great progress! You deserve a nice break.
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Old 02-28-2021, 02:48 PM   #33
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You’ve made great progress! You deserve a nice break.
Thank you! Its hard to take a break when its not done yet but im trying to just lay back and relax.
Tomorrow is another day!
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Old 02-28-2021, 03:21 PM   #34
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I'm sure you have already tried this but mine was in a bind and I had another person push and pull on the slide while I was prying up. I gave up on the back one and took it into the shop. Hope you get it soon.
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Old 02-28-2021, 03:38 PM   #35
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I'm sure you have already tried this but mine was in a bind and I had another person push and pull on the slide while I was prying up. I gave up on the back one and took it into the shop. Hope you get it soon.
Thanks , Not yet but i will definitely try that . I can feel in my first attempts that the motor is tight in there. My plan is to back my pickup up the slide and have someone stand in the bed and push it in to hopefully reduce some of the tension on the motor as i pry it up. We'll see
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Old 03-01-2021, 05:38 AM   #36
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I have a 14 Vista....Had the very same problem last summer....Not easy fix.....Depending on the type motor and system you have it can be a very expensive fix (I had the Lippert in wall slim rack system)....The override control did not work or help getting the slide out. My problem was the pig tail that was added between the motor and the cable from controller and bad shorted motor (Very fragile wiring and very poor design) I only had one motor bad so elected to replace both after the slide was finally extended....I was unable to get the slide out so opted to have a qualified service company repair mine. Total cost was $1,300 for 2 motors $300 Labor. Also the new motors have a different design so bracket had to be reversed. I would suggest first you check from the inside to see if you have a the jumper. It required that the inside moulding be taken off (Just snaps off) to see the jumper and make reair. If you have the jumper inbetween the wiring cable and motor the part number is (Slim Rack Jumper 379056) Had to fight the Winnebago parts guys to get the jumper. Finally found one at Winnebago that knew what I was talking about and provided the part number. My tech did a lot of extra reforment with tape since the plastic plugs and fragile and the wiring is somewhere close to number 20 or 22. My tech had to work hard with a lot of pushing and shoving to get the wall out. I believe he disconnected the cable to the controller to get the power off the motors to release the brake. Good luck.
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Old 03-01-2021, 06:12 AM   #37
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Is this your slide out motor? If so, here is the manual and info for repair.
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/16...?page=8#manual
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Old 03-01-2021, 06:28 AM   #38
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I think you are going to find out the motor is the most expensive slide out motor for these type slides. I was looking to get a spare just in case for mine.
When you do get the motor out, please post a pic with the part number.
https://www.amazon.com/Lippert-Compo...s%2C180&sr=8-5
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Old 03-01-2021, 06:41 AM   #39
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I think you are going to find out the motor is the most expensive slide out motor for these type slides. I was looking to get a spare just in case for mine.
When you do get the motor out, please post a pic with the part number.
https://www.amazon.com/Lippert-Compo...s%2C180&sr=8-5
Yes i see that!! But i may not need that afterall. See my next post
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Old 03-01-2021, 06:49 AM   #40
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I took a little time with my snake camera this morning to look around and behind the motor trying to find the best place to try and pry up the motor and looky what i found ...
Im pretty sure wire connectors have to actually BE CONNECTED to work!!!
I have now shifted from trying to pry up and remove the motor to trying to pull the wire connector around to the front so i can plug it back in!
From the first moment i looked behind the rubber , i didnt like how the wires were pinned between the motor and slide and suspected that it was in fact a wire problem and not the motor itself .
Off to make a long wire grabbing tool ...
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