Sway Control

[Goodspike]

Maybe I'm bad at searching, but I'm not seeing threads on this topic.

I have a new 2106DS Micro Minnie towed by a Colorado crewcab Duramax. I'm currently just using a WDH without sway control, but I'm wondering the need for it.

I just did a 200 mile tow, about 140 of which was on freeway. I did notice a few incidents of sway, but they quickly corrected themselves without any action on my part. The only time I knew what caused it was going under an underpass in moderately heavy winds (winds strong enough to get a very large flag to fly straight). It basically went right, left, right then straight.

Having never used sway control before I'm wondering if that's just something that happens, and that sway control might lessen it. Or is it something that just should not happen? I'm a bit surprised a tandem axle trailer seems to sway more than similar length single axle trailers I've towed in the past, but I'm also noting it quickly recovers. It's not like it just starts and keeps going like some trailers I've seen in the past.

BTW, I just did weights at a Cat scale, and hooked up with the WDH the trailer weighed 3960 and the front and rear axles on my truck were 2920 and 2940 respectively. Also the tongue weight measured with my own scale is 550.

Finally, if I added sway control I could do it either cheaply, with an add on to my WDH, or buy one of those grease-less Andersen Sway Control WDH. The latter costs about $500, but I spend more than that replacing the OEM Goodride tires with Goodyears.

Thoughts?

[09busaman]

We are in a similar situation, but I tow a 1708FB with a Tacoma, short story the sway helps. I have the Anderson and did as much research as I could before I settled on it. Can you add on the sway control to the your existing hitch set up? I think you can get just the sway control for around 50 bucks.

[Goodspike]

Originally Posted by 09busaman

Can you add on the sway control to the your existing hitch set up? I think you can get just the sway control for around 50 bucks.

Yes I can, but it requires drilling into the frame, which I'm not crazy about. Going with the Andersen also has the advantage of being slightly lighter and going without all the messy grease on the ball and bars. But it costs almost 5x as much.

[09busaman]

Originally Posted by Goodspike

Yes I can, but it requires drilling into the frame, which I'm not crazy about. Going with the Andersen also has the advantage of being slightly lighter and going without all the messy grease on the ball and bars. But it costs almost 5x as much.

Totally understand. Like I said I did so much research before I purchased I may have confused myself. However, I knew I also needed an 8 inch rise. The Anderson fit the bill all the way. I ordered mine from Amazon and the install was a snap. Just needed to get the 1/2 drive torque wrench from Harbor Frieght. With everything installed I have the camper within an inch of level and my truck squats and inch after tightening the chains. I like it more than the standard hitch.

[Goodspike]

Originally Posted by 09busaman

Totally understand. Like I said I did so much research before I purchased I may have confused myself. However, I knew I also needed an 8 inch rise. The Anderson fit the bill all the way. I ordered mine from Amazon and the install was a snap. Just needed to get the 1/2 drive torque wrench from Harbor Frieght.

The sad thing will be all the tools I bought for the normal WDH will be largely wasted. That thing needed 300 foot pounds of torque on two of the large bolts. That was so much that I sent them an email asking if it was a typo! It wasn't. So I not only needed a good torque wrench but two long breaker bars to get it close. Not to mention the sockets which are larger than what I'll ever need for anything else.

On the other hand, if I do switch I won't have to carry all those around with me, so that will be more weight savings. And they do make removing lug nuts a breeze.

BTW, one other thing pushing me to the Andersen is that I don't think you risk any damage if you jackknife the trailer too far compared to the Eaz Lift bar solution.

[09busaman]

Originally Posted by Goodspike

The sad thing will be all the tools I bought for the normal WDH will be largely wasted. That thing needed 300 foot pounds of torque on two of the large bolts. That was so much that I sent them an email asking if it was a typo! It wasn't. So I not only needed a good torque wrench but two long breaker bars to get it close. Not to mention the sockets which are larger than what I'll ever need for anything else.

On the other hand, if I do switch I won't have to carry all those around with me, so that will be more weight savings. And they do make removing lug nuts a breeze.

BTW, one other thing pushing me to the Andersen is that I don't think you risk any damage if you jackknife the trailer too far compared to the Eaz Lift bar solution.

Yeah, I have a few one time use tools as well. The Anderson will require 125ft lbs for the ball to reciever mounting bolts. So far so good, I have made tight turns and backing maneuvers without issue.

[SlipF18]

Get yourself a Blue Ox. You won’t regret it.

[KGs2108DS]

also interested in this topic. pulling our 2018 2108DS with 2015 Tundra Crew Max. longest trip so far from KC to SW Colorado last fall for several weeks of boon docking. so, on quite a few back country mountain roads, over passes, altitudes up to 10600', and most importantly I-70 from Col Sps back and forth to KC, and trip home quite a cross-wind. a bit of sway and wag, but not too bad. shut cruise control off, used tow-haul mode, paid attention to mirrors, kept it about 65mph, and it went pretty well. I didn't come away with a strong sense of need to add the anti-sway equipment. But again, still learning this gig.

[SummitPond]

Originally Posted by Goodspike

Maybe I'm bad at searching, but I'm not seeing threads on this topic.

<clip>

Thoughts?

Goodspike

What did you end up doing?

[Goodspike]

Originally Posted by SummitPond

Goodspike

What did you end up doing?

Nothing yet. With Covid-19 I'm probably not doing that California trip, so I'm holding off..

[MicroMinnie]

A properly loaded trailer may sway but will return to neutral, you won’t lose control (what you experienced)

Sway control may make your setup drive like a stiff city bus but marginal benefit (loading is key)

I have a similiar setup/trailer and towed the 2108FBS 8000 miles last year with no sway control and never seen sway ever.

When we picked this trailer up in April last year (in snow..) and 45mph crosswind I was certain the 300 mile trip home was gonna suck. never saw sway.

My impression is that the 21ft tandem axles of winnebago are pretty stable but tongue weight is everything ofcourse.

If I were to buy sway control I’d pick the electronic version, the one that tugs the brakes and straightens the rig out if it goes south. (like squeezing the GMC Canyon brake controller lever)

PIC: Old rig and new

[Goodspike]

Originally Posted by MicroMinnie

A properly loaded trailer may sway but will return to neutral, you won’t lose control (what you experienced)

Thank you. That's another reason for me to wait a bit. It does seem like any sway does come quickly under control, but it is also disconcerting.

I think my truck does try to counter the sway electronically, and I've never seen the light come on indicating it is doing any thing. I probably need to look into that more.

[MicroMinnie]

Originally Posted by Goodspike

Thank you. That's another reason for me to wait a bit. It does seem like any sway does come quickly under control, but it is also disconcerting.

I think my truck does try to counter the sway electronically, and I've never seen the light come on indicating it is doing any thing. I probably need to look into that more.

Not really looked into the Canyon stability control either and it’s reaction with trailer attached but when a trailer sways it essentially is trying to go faster than the tow vehicle. (Downhill with a trailer heavier than your truck in windy conditions would not be the time to doze off)

That’s why applying the trailer brakes ONLY is THE way to stop it safely. The Canyon’s integrated brake controller is nice and close to “squeeze” the brakes

[Goodspike]

Originally Posted by MicroMinnie

That’s why applying the trailer brakes ONLY is THE way to stop it safely. The Canyon’s integrated brake controller is nice and close to “squeeze” the brakes

My complaint about the Canyon brake controller is it's in a bad location, behind the steering wheel, so you sort of have to feel for it. That whole left side dash of the steering wheel is poorly designed, which contrasts with the rather good design of the rest of the controls (assuming you don't have heated seats or wireless charging, which I don't).

[MicroMinnie]

Very true, it’s not in the best location. I have an SLT that came in 4x4, pretty much with all options except cooled seats. there’s a few things they could have done better doubt they’ll be fixed even in the 2021

My list - no push button start, park sensors stay active when plugging trailer in, brake controller location, poor headlamp design/output, no auto leveling headlamps, reduced HP (GM says was emission thing), somewhat heavy steering for the size, brake pedal force, need bigger phone charging pad

All in all still really like it!

[Goodspike]

I'm not a fan of push button start, but that's because I'm cheap! I don't like the idea of having to spend hundreds of dollars if I lose a "key." I actually would prefer a non-chipped key because my truck is garaged and at little risk of being stolen. Also, it's somewhat of a PITA on the wife's Subaru because not only do you have to make sure the remote is stored far enough away from the car to affect battery use, if you do something in the wrong order getting out it will start beeping without telling you what it's complaining about!

Not sure what the HP thing is you're referring to, but I have the diesel. I do know emissions takes a toll on them, but they are improving. Those new 3.0 diesels have a lot of extra HP for just .2 liter bigger.

My other control complaint is it's easy to confuse the 4x4 control for the headlight control. Twice I've accidentally turned the wrong knob just checking my trailer lights. One of those two times I didn't notice right away, but at least it was in AWD rather than 4WD. That's another of those left side of the steering wheel issues.

[tinglett]

Originally Posted by Goodspike

With Covid-19 I'm probably not doing that California trip, so I'm holding off..

Still holding off? I just got a new tow vehicle and am looking at the Andersen WD hitch. The thing that surprised me is how low the trailer frame is on my 2108DS, until I bothered to look and see that I'm set at the lowest height. I don't intend to do any off roading so am thinking I'll leave it this way (at least for now), but I measured 17" to the top of my frame which tells me I need the low-profile brackets.

It isn't clear to me what the low-profile brackets are good for other than not bottoming out on a transition (for example into a driveway). If this starts happening to me I think I'll raise the trailer 3" instead!

Looks like I should have a look at Blue Ox, too.

Todd

[Goodspike]

Still holding off. I believe the Andersen site has some videos on when to use the low profile set.

[Frankf]

Originally Posted by Goodspike

Still holding off. I believe the Andersen site has some videos on when to use the low profile set.

Looking into a 2108DS to pull with my 2017 Colorado CCLB 2.8L Duramax.

I also want the Anderson hitch but finding out the answers to certain questions is almost impossible unless I can see the rig in person.

About all I know at this point is 2" shank and 2-5/16" ball.

4" or 8" drop? Not 100% sure

Bracket size? I cannot find the tongue frame width/height anywhere on line. There are a few bracket sizes.

Top of frame to ground if less than 18" needs raised brackets, a special item.

I guess I'm going to have to locate one to inspect in person. I'd like to have the Anderson hitch when I take delivery of the rig.

If someone out there has the similar/same setup, please chime it.

Cheers!

[09busaman]

Originally Posted by Frankf

Looking into a 2108DS to pull with my 2017 Colorado CCLB 2.8L Duramax.

I also want the Anderson hitch but finding out the answers to certain questions is almost impossible unless I can see the rig in person.

About all I know at this point is 2" shank and 2-5/16" ball.

4" or 8" drop? Not 100% sure

Bracket size? I cannot find the tongue frame width/height anywhere on line. There are a few bracket sizes.

Top of frame to ground if less than 18" needs raised brackets, a special item.

I guess I'm going to have to locate one to inspect in person. I'd like to have the Anderson hitch when I take delivery of the rig.

If someone out there has the similar/same setup, please chime it.

Cheers!

Measure your hitch to the ground with the vehicle level, find out what the hitch to ground measurement is on the trailer, do the math and you will know. For example, my tacoma hitch is 17" from the ground, my trailer is 26" when sitting level. I needed an 8 inch rise to make the difference so truck and trailer were level when connected.

Check Youtube, lots of good videos on the install and how to select the hitch. The instructions are spot on too that come with the hitch. I use the same hitch for my 1 ton, just had to lower the ball assembly on the rise.

What brackets are you referring too, the ones that mount on the frame of the trailer? They only come in two sizes.