New Micro Minnie 1800BH

[Glen 3]

Doesn't the owners manual for Honda vehicles say that weight distributing hitches are not recommended?

[bluecatsup]

I have a 2017 Honda Ridgeline and I'm shopping between the 1800BH and the GeoPro 19BH too.

My Honda manual says that weight distribution hitches can be used. It was in the Gen1 Ridgelines that weight distribution hitches were not recommended.

The Pilot/Passport/Ridgeline all have 5000lbs max towing and obviously that number changes depending on GVWR, GCVWR, passengers, cargo, etc.
But unlike the Pilot and Passport, the Ridgeline has a longer wheelbase so I'm hoping that tips the scales in the decision to go with 1800BH (heavier tandem axle). Thoughts?

[Goodspike]

Originally Posted by bluecatsup

I have a 2017 Honda Ridgeline and I'm shopping between the 1800BH and the GeoPro 19BH too.

My Honda manual says that weight distribution hitches can be used. It was in the Gen1 Ridgelines that weight distribution hitches were not recommended.

The Pilot/Passport/Ridgeline all have 5000lbs max towing and obviously that number changes depending on GVWR, GCVWR, passengers, cargo, etc.

It really depends on those other numbers more than max tow. They will more likely be your shortcomings if there are any. Use this link:

TowCalculator.com

[PC Red]

We have a 2018 MM 1808fbs. Has the slide out, bathroom has shower stall, commode, and sink, nice sized fridge and stove, and our grandson can sleep more than comfortably on the dinette when converted. We’ve been home bound as have so many of us and we’re anxious to get back on the road.

Tow with our all wheel drive 6cyl Sorento (5000lb rated) and she does just fine. I did add a heavy duty transmission cooler for some added peace of mind.
PC

[JACKAL0PE]

Originally Posted by COSCamper

I've been looking at a 2100BH for awhile, this is first I've seen of this 1800BH.. Maybe I'm missing something, but honestly i'm left with the question of, what's the point of this model? I can understand the 1700BH as there is definite weight and cost savings vs the 2100 there, but this 1800 seems to be in nowhereland model wise. Instead of this I sure wish they'd give a 2100bh variant with a sofa/folding table option instead of dinette.

Vs the 2100, the 1800 looks to only be ~100 lbs lighter than the 2100, and you get less space w/o the slideout. I would expect it's cheaper w/o the slideout, but wondering how much (and these aren't on the cheap end of trailers, so the savings would have to be alot to relatively impact the price). Our previous camper was an Rpod without the slideout.. while the decision at the time was a cost/weight savings choice.. we more or less regretted until we finally sold the RPOD. For some weird reason even after just 2-3 years the kids took up much more space than when we bought it , and no slideout was very noticeable. Looking at the images of the 1800bh.. it seems like it's not as bad as the rpod, but the same problem of a "tight hallway" that clogs up when you have >1 person in the camper.

Assuming you have kids.. i'd encourage taking a look at a 2100 vs 1800. Put all of you in there at the same time, try to walk around and move around. Ideally.. you spend as little time in the camper as possible, but you will be in there enough that you want it to be functional.

Because all families don't look like yours. Some families are just one old retired guy whose wife has gone to heaven. He wants to travel the US and see everything. But every once in a blue moon, he son, granddaughter and girlfriend will join him for a couple of days. Over 99% of the time, I don't want to run around cut off from my bathroom for week or two of convenience. I don't want more weight, cost or problems.

[backtrack15]

I like the dual-axles and extra storage of the 1800BH. It seems like a good fit for a small family that doesn't want a trailer with a slide. The only complication is the small dinette. More model diversity is always a good thing for consumers (but a complication for Winnebago), so I'm not going to complain about the 1800BH.

Speaking of more models: I'd love to see BH models with the twin beds up front. I'd like to see the 1708FB with twin beds up front.

[taylorthedad]

How did you know it had heated tanks? I'm looking at a used 2020 1800bh and can't find that information anywhere.

[backtrack15]

The 2021b models have a big red switch labeled “tank heaters” next to the control panel.

Some models (maybe all?) in prior years had a heater duct that directed hot air from the furnace down into the underbelly. You might be able to confirm that visually by removing the panel under the oven and looking rearward to see if there is a duct heading into the floor somewhere near the furnace.

You can probably also find a 2020 brochure on the Winnebago website.

[taylorthedad]

Thanks for the quick reply, are the tank heaters different than heat being blown by duct towards tanks?

I haven't purchased one yet but I'm in between purchasing a new 2021 1700bh or a used 2020 1800bh. We want to be able to use it with the kids up in the mountains skiing. I have a 4 runner with 5 k tow capacity

[backtrack15]

The 2021b tank heaters are electric resistance heating pads that are stuck to the bottom of the tanks. They take upwards of 12 amps when running, so I think they’re best used with electrical hookups. My 2021b does not have the furnace duct to the underbelly, only the heating pads described above.

[Foothills83]

Originally Posted by taylorthedad

Thanks for the quick reply, are the tank heaters different than heat being blown by duct towards tanks?

I haven't purchased one yet but I'm in between purchasing a new 2021 1700bh or a used 2020 1800bh. We want to be able to use it with the kids up in the mountains skiing. I have a 4 runner with 5 k tow capacity

Did you make this purchase?

I'm sort of in this situation. 2013 4Runner. Picking up a new 2021 (2021b, I guess?) 1800BH in Phoenix in two weeks.

We typically from our place daytrip to Sugar Bowl where we have passes. Or stay at in-laws' place in Truckee. But would like to take the trailer to Mammoth and whatnot. My thinking is I'm going to be super cautious in true winter temps. These things are three-season or 3.5 season trailers. Not true winter in the mountains trailers.

I think for the latter, in the small trailer market, I'd look at Escape trailers with the blown foam insulated undercarriage and tank heaters. I was thinking of going that route, but they're another $14k (loaded, for sure, but still) more than we're paying for the 1800BH. And I just won't use it enough in true winter conditions to be worth it the extra cash. For the rare times I'm using it when it's truly that cold, I'll just not put water in the lines and carry a water bladder.

If I were, say, doing the PNW thing of camping in ski area parking looks regularly, I'd be looking harder at an Escape.

[R_Lefebvre]

Why I chose an 1800BH over the 1700 and 2100:

I'm coming from an Apex 235BHS, which is very similar to the MM 2306. I'm am downsizing because I want a smaller trailer, that is more suited for boondocking on gravel roads, etc.

I don't want the 1700, as I really want double axle for a smoother, more stable ride, and lower ground pressure. Also, the 1700 gives up the pantry, which IMO, is a critical loss on a trailer this small.

And I decided not to go with the 2100, because I don't want the slide, for reliability/simplicity reasons. And the box doesn't have a giant hole cut in the side which makes it less stiff on rough roads. Also, on our 235BHS, when we stop on the road to use the bathroom, it's a PITA, you have to put the slide out, and sometimes that's difficult. Secondly, the 2100 looses the pantry, which as I said is critical, but it also seems to lose the cabinets over the dinette. (why?) The loss of those two things is just too great. If I was going to get a 2100, I'd just get a 2306. I actually find the 2100 is the odd one out. I'm just not willing to sacrifice those cabinets on a camper this small, to gain more seating area and a wider hall.

[backtrack15]

Originally Posted by R_Lefebvre

Why I chose an 1800BH over the 1700 and 2100:

I'm coming from an Apex 235BHS, which is very similar to the MM 2306. I'm am downsizing because I want a smaller trailer, that is more suited for boondocking on gravel roads, etc.

I don't want the 1700, as I really want double axle for a smoother, more stable ride, and lower ground pressure. Also, the 1700 gives up the pantry, which IMO, is a critical loss on a trailer this small.

And I decided not to go with the 2100, because I don't want the slide, for reliability/simplicity reasons. And the box doesn't have a giant hole cut in the side which makes it less stiff on rough roads. Also, on our 235BHS, when we stop on the road to use the bathroom, it's a PITA, you have to put the slide out, and sometimes that's difficult. Secondly, the 2100 looses the pantry, which as I said is critical, but it also seems to lose the cabinets over the dinette. (why?) The loss of those two things is just too great. If I was going to get a 2100, I'd just get a 2306. I actually find the 2100 is the odd one out. I'm just not willing to sacrifice those cabinets on a camper this small, to gain more seating area and a wider hall.

The slide giveth and taketh away. The aperture for the slide is a few inches down from the ceiling and several inches up from the floor, which means those upper cabinets have to go. If the slide was flush with the floor like bigger trailers, the overhead cabinets could be retained. Also, no need to push the slide out to use the restroom in the 2100BH.

[RocknRoll]

Originally Posted by R_Lefebvre

I'm just not willing to sacrifice those cabinets on a camper this small, to gain more seating area and a wider hall.

Personally to me, the slide+dinette adds a level of spaciousness especially if/when you get a 3 day rain event. Eating and surfing the internet is MUCH more comfortable.

[Marine359]

Originally Posted by Sun_Seeker

My advice to add, is only this...while you might find a dealer out of county, out of State/Province, that will lob off another one to three thousand dollars off the asking price, over your most nearest dealer to where you live, will camp, will store...etc, .... you need to know, or dwell on this---->...ANY dealer, that knows where you live, (and will...) and sees that you purchased your RV and/or Travel Trailer, from another dealer, and worse yet...from one either next county, or out of state, will...when you bring it in for warranty, or regular general maintenance, WILL, not break their cubes, to get you in, 'right away', for Service, even if an emergency, or threatening lack-of-use
J
Just ask anybody around these forums, and if they are honest, will tell you that. [B]Dealers will take care of their own 'have sold the owner, the RV/TT' customers BEFORE any others!
Cheers,

Sun Seeker

You make very good points Seeker,
But in the end, you have to balance purchase price with budget and value. When we were checkbook in hand, ready to buy, the visit with our local dealer went like this: “we don’t have the model you want in stack and it could take six months to get you one, and we don’t negotiate selling price”. I scoured the internet and called over a dozen dealers, most not willing to negotiate. Finally found a dealer 500 miles away. It took a couple of weeks before they would agree to my price, but we did get the right deal, about $5,000 less than I could get from my local dealer. (Having a good feel for dealer cost, and invoice helps). I’m retired on a fixed income, so that’s a lot of money to me. I used some of the savings to upgrade and outfit my MM.

Haven’t had any serious problems with my 2108ds that I couldn’t fix myself, so haven’t been stuck in the warranty quandary. But, since I wasn’t physically capable of completing my electrical upgrade, I called the local dealer and was told I’d have to wait six to eight weeks for service. Not much different from my local Camping World hacks (6 weeks), or the highly rated independent shop that I wound up using (6 weeks). Don’t know what the future holds as far as a potential need for warranty service, but I feel I made the right purchase decision for me. Good news that I repeat to others on the forum: Winnebago build quality is far better than most competing brands. Therefore I was confident that I would have a lower exposure to the need for warranty service.

[rstraz]

Originally Posted by R_Lefebvre

Why I chose an 1800BH over the 1700 and 2100:

I'm coming from an Apex 235BHS, which is very similar to the MM 2306. I'm am downsizing because I want a smaller trailer, that is more suited for boondocking on gravel roads, etc.

I don't want the 1700, as I really want double axle for a smoother, more stable ride, and lower ground pressure. Also, the 1700 gives up the pantry, which IMO, is a critical loss on a trailer this small.

And I decided not to go with the 2100, because I don't want the slide, for reliability/simplicity reasons. And the box doesn't have a giant hole cut in the side which makes it less stiff on rough roads. Also, on our 235BHS, when we stop on the road to use the bathroom, it's a PITA, you have to put the slide out, and sometimes that's difficult. Secondly, the 2100 looses the pantry, which as I said is critical, but it also seems to lose the cabinets over the dinette. (why?) The loss of those two things is just too great. If I was going to get a 2100, I'd just get a 2306. I actually find the 2100 is the odd one out. I'm just not willing to sacrifice those cabinets on a camper this small, to gain more seating area and a wider hall.

I'm with you. I also went with the 1800BH. It was everything we wanted. No way I wanted to give up the extra axle and pantry to go with the 1700. And while the extra dining space would have been nice on the 2100, it comes at a major storage cost. I also saw it as one more thing that I would need to fix when it breaks. The 1800 really hit a sweet spot for us.

[Crowdc]

Late to the party, or what have you

We were torn on a few different models and hated the single axle of the 1700BH, and the 2100BH was just outside budget

Ended up with an 1800BH and couldn't be happier! We tow it with a 2019 Subaru Ascent and its been solid.


My only grip is now i need how to figure out storage for my sewer stuff that isnt under the bunkhouse

[Marine359]

Originally Posted by Crowdc

Late to the party, or what have you
My only grip is now i need how to figure out storage for my sewer stuff that isnt under the bunkhouse

Hiya Crowd.
I keep my sewer gear in a plastic tub with a sealable top from Lowe’s. Keep in my truck bed when traveling. It traps odors well. But since you’re towing with SUV, you might want to strap or bolt a container to the bumper. The bumper is rated at 90lbs. The combination of spare tire and a sewer container back there should not exceed the weight limit. Not attractive, but I keep my Thetford Tote back there.

[Foothills83]

Originally Posted by Marine359

Hiya Crowd.
I keep my sewer gear in a plastic tub with a sealable top from Lowe’s. Keep in my truck bed when traveling. It traps odors well. But since you’re towing with SUV, you might want to strap or bolt a container to the bumper. The bumper is rated at 90lbs. The combination of spare tire and a sewer container back there should not exceed the weight limit. Not attractive, but I keep my Thetford Tote back there.

Adding to this, here's an option to beef up the bumper too, if you're feeling like you want to put more stuff on it:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B084ZTHPTK...v_ov_lig_dp_it

[R_Lefebvre]

Is it not possible to store the hose in the bumper like on most RV's?