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Old 07-01-2008, 01:25 PM   #1
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Well, I have successfully replaced the blower motor, squirrel cage, and brass bearings on my noisy basement a/c unit. Below is a link to pictures and step-by-step instructions. This is not a very difficult job. And when you get done, chances are unit will work just like new because you'll have it very clean inside & out and your cold air duct work will probably have a tighter seal.

If you just want to pull out unit to clean and lube the brass bearings, it would take about 2 hours. You will need a helper for about 30 minutes. If you replace the blower squirrel cage and/or motor, it will take about 1-2 more hours.

The first symptoms I had were a rattling sound, followed a couple hours later by a much louder squealing/screeching. The a/c was cooling just fine. After posting the problem, IRV2 members convinced me the problem was the outdoor blower bearings and not the compressors. Here& here are the two related topic posted earlier.

I bought the brass bearings from Grainers for $10.42 each, and the blower motor and new squirrel cage from RV Products for $242 shipping included. Details & part numbers are in procedure.
This is mostly a one person job, except a helper is needed to lift in/out and getting the blower assy out without damaging the aluminum coil fins.

Here is the link to my photo album with directions in the captions.
-----------------------------
On Edit Sept 2:

I've uploaded this procedure in PDF format to "Google "Site" so you can download and save a copy to your computer or print a hardcopy.

Here's the linkto the pdf.

It's now been a couple of months since I repaired my unit and it's working real well. That new plastic blower is much quieter that the original metal blower. Standing in front of my rig, you can hardly tell the A/C is running.


Good luck,
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Old 07-01-2008, 01:44 PM   #2
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Bill;

Thanks for the pictures and all the info. IT sure will be helpful for anyone wanting to remove their unit.

Well done;
Don
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Old 07-01-2008, 02:06 PM   #3
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Wow Bill, awesome post! I wish we could bookmark posts for later use here on the site. Your info is invaluable.

Great job

Sarge
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Old 07-01-2008, 02:32 PM   #4
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Wow Bill - great job! Thanks for taking the time to document your maintenance procedure

Of course, what else would we expect from a retired engineer See you and Marie in a couple of weeks!
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Old 07-01-2008, 04:09 PM   #5
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Fantastic post Bill, I am so glad I live near you in Buckeye state. Now I know where to go when I need this job done on mine. Just kidding. Thanks so much for one of the best posts I've read. Good luck.
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Old 07-01-2008, 06:44 PM   #6
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I just pulled my AC and replaced the bushing on the outdoor blower, it goes just like he said. I went with a sealed bearing. Duner did you replace the seal for the return air and on the ductwork? If so what did you use? I am going to clean my coils before I completely install the unit.
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Old 07-01-2008, 08:03 PM   #7
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Holy cow Duner: All I can say is "WOW", that's fantastic!
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Old 07-02-2008, 05:03 AM   #8
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DUNER:Man what a great illustration and write up, (your the man). You should teach tech writing to some of the manufacturers.
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Old 07-02-2008, 05:25 AM   #9
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Duner, fantastic post. I'm sure that it will become the "bible" for basement AC repair. Really, really nice work, Thanks.
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Old 07-02-2008, 08:52 AM   #10
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Bill, FANTASTIC job illustrating the issues as well as the solutions. You've raised the bar for the rest of us DIY'ers.
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Old 07-02-2008, 11:15 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally posted by Billy S:
I just pulled my AC and replaced the bushing on the outdoor blower, it goes just like he said. I went with a sealed bearing. Duner did you replace the seal for the return air and on the ductwork? If so what did you use? I am going to clean my coils before I completely install the unit.
BillyS,
No, I didn't replace the foam seal on the return duct. On mine it looked real good.
For sure clean up the intake coil cause it's real easy when the unit is out.

The cold air out foam was pulled apart and tattered a bit. But it gets squeezed down so tight it doesn't really matter. I felt around there feeling for cold air leaks and couldn't find any. It could be changed out later without pulling the whole unit.

Thanks for all the complements folks! I'm going to see how the pic's and words would fit in a PowerPoint or Word file and see how many Mbytes that file would be. If I can get the file size down to a manageable size, then maybe we can have it hosted somewhere for downloading.
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Old 07-06-2008, 03:49 PM   #12
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Bill~ I echo what others have said, GREAT JOB.
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Old 07-11-2008, 10:56 PM   #13
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Duner, I have a question as I view the process. How do you reach the point where you re-taped the duct?

Thanks, Joe
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Old 07-12-2008, 01:01 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally posted by JWatkins:
Duner, I have a question as I view the process. How do you reach the point where you re-taped the duct?

Thanks, Joe
Just sitting on the ground and reaching up. It's only an arms length up. But you do have to have your head up there in some close quarters. Wear a cap so you won't feel all those sharp corners.

First you have to get up there with soap & water and clean the surfaces real good. Then I used alcohol to remove any residue left behind. You want this stuff to stick permanently 'cause you don't want to do this again for along time!

I had to peel off 6-8 pieces of tape about 6" long and have them temporarily stuck along a convenient place so I could just grab one and continue to build a new joint all the way around. On my coach there wasn't enough clearance for the roll of tape to just wrap the whole thing with longer runs of tape. Of course if you have a helper, you jut say, OK give me 8 inches, etc.
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Old 07-12-2008, 01:12 PM   #15
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Bill,

I have to echo the others' compliments on a great job!

One question. How much does the a/c unit weigh?
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Old 07-12-2008, 04:06 PM   #16
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The RVP spec on the Model Series 6535 for "Installed Weight" is 200 lbs.

What makes it pretty easy for 2 guys to handle 200 lbs (sliding in/out on the gas chassis) is you don't have to go up/down with it. And it's a nice working height so you don't have to stoop and strain your back. When I did it (twice) you are only carrying the weight for just a few (5- 10)seconds and then you get the one edge sitting on the bench (or going back in on the bracket of the MH).

You don't need muscle men, two of us wimpy 60'ish guys did it no problem.
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Old 07-12-2008, 07:44 PM   #17
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Same here, very good pictures.
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Old 08-24-2008, 05:03 PM   #18
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Using Duner's outstanding procedures booklet, I recently completed a rework of my basement AC unit for what Duner and I diagnosed as a number 1 blower bearing problem....I had a # 1 blower startup whine (3-5 seconds)and and occasional scrapping/rubbing noise as the # 1 blower slowed to a stop.

A few recommendations from my experience at this rehab of Basement A/C blower bearings etc.

a. If you are going to due the job yourself, go with the sealed bearing replacements for both the #1 and #2 Blowers. Cost of sealed bearing upgrade is fractional. Replace both bearings at same time.

b. Each blower motor has a small oiling hole plugged near the top of the outer edge of the motor case. This oil hole delivers oil to the motor bearing. Remove the plug...lube with 4-8 drops of very light (5W) oil. Replace the plugs. While you are at the motors, take a shop vac with extension brush and vacumn out the cooling vents on the motor casings.

c. Replace the foam seals around the inlet duct and cold outlet duct. I used a common A/C seal at hardware store...denser material same width etc.

d. Be sure to check the tightness of the allen screws on both blower squirrel cage shaft mounts. Best access to the screws is directly through the fins to the screw head using a 5/32 T Handle allen screw wrench. The long T handle style wrench is needed to make the 4-5 inch reach through the fins to the screws. Check for 20-25 # torque...do not overtorque.

e. Replace all removed rusted cross point metal screws with hex head style screws..zinc plated.

f. In the cold air A/C outlet chamber..clean out any rust or crud...spray coat spots with good rust inhibitor paint.

g. Buy an A/C fin comb. Straighten any bent condensor fins with the comb. # 12 comb worked for mine.

h. There are a couple of layers of cheap poly foam boards on top of the A/C placed for insulation. Replace with a single sheet of upgraded foam board or a couple layers of Reflectix foil sheeting.

I reassembled all back into the coach and started it up. Solid and quiet as day one..
I do believe the sealed bearings now require 1-2 amp less running draw than old brass ones.

Overall...this blower bearing repair procedure can save you 500-1000 dollars. Follow the steps one at a time...choose a shady spot..and don't rush the job.

Thanks Duner!
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Old 08-25-2008, 05:07 AM   #19
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Old 08-25-2008, 09:16 AM   #20
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I got to tell you these inst are the best. I think they should make this a perm post. Even I could understand them. Good job sir
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