I probably shouldn't be responding since I'm not in FL but I am in the land of 100 degree plus summers. With that disclaimer, my answer is yes if it's operating properly. These units are very effective and very similar to home units in miniature. They're actually heat pumps providing both cooling and heating.
1. It will take forever to overcome the initial heat load so don't expect to drive somewhere and get cool soon after stopping. Better yet, cool it down the night before and run it off the generator while driving. Compressor 1 should run if you plug into a 20A residential outlet with an adapter. Sun exposure can also be an issue.
2. Make sure your filter is clean and the fins on the condenser coil are clean. In most cases, the filter is in the under-mattress storage area, underneath an access panel. If you provide us with your exact model, we can be more specific. The evaporator fins can be accessed by removing the cover of the unit itself. There also could be a leak in the ducting.
3. Make sure both compressors (1 & 2) are running. Each has its own breaker. If your MH has 30A service or if you have a 50A MH running on a 30A or less pedestal, this can be problematical. Running both compressors on 30A is possible but pretty much requires that everything else off. Compressor 1 will start first followed by compressor 2. You'll feel/here the surge and the amps on your power center will jump as the compressors start. If either one won't start you might have a bad capacitor or capacitors. This is an easy and relatively inexpensive DIY fix. There are a lot of threads on this. By running, I mean showing a load, not just the fan.
4. The measure of how well the compressors are operating is the temperature differential between the ambient temperature (inside) and the air coming out of the vents. The difference should be about 15 to 20 degrees. If it's 80 inside, the air coming out of the vents should be 60 to 65, etc. If it's much less, your ducting is OK and filter and coil fins are clean, you could have a compressor and/or charging problem.
5. Here's a link to the service manual (one for model 6535 and one for model 6536) that contain an extensive troubleshooting section. Don't be tempted to take a shotgun approach, find your symptoms and go through the process step by step even if you think a step is unnecessary. If yours isn't this exact same model, don't worry, the model differences are mainly physical differences such as the location of duct connections, etc.
https://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/rvp/6535heatpump.pdf
https://library.coleman-mach.com/wp-...4/1976-294.pdf
6. Here's a link to an extensive writeup on removing these units for service and replacement of the blower.
It can be difficult to find someone to service these units, hence the number of DIY threads. It's my understanding that they are very similar to Coleman units designed for mobile homes so you may find a friendly commercial A/C shop that may take this on. Here's a link to a thread on one person's experience:
https://www.irv2.com/forums/f101/col...ce-581336.html
Additionally, be aware that replacement units are available (new and used) although the price has increased dramatically over the past few years. Personally, despite the expense, I'd consider replacement if you find that you're facing thousands of dollars in repairs that may or may not be successful. Be aware that the location of the duct connection might require some modification. I think this is mainly an issue with Diesel MHs:
https://www.google.com/search?q=cole...hrome&ie=UTF-8
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