Side vented absorption fridges do have a dis-advantage over ones with a roof vent. One thing to check is rear clearance, it should be very narrow, like 1/4" to 1". If not, the air bypasses the condenser. The installers don't seem to pay attention to this, I had to pull my fridge and glue a 1" layer of foil backed foam board on the back wall, although you can make baffles as well.
Another thing to check is inside the top vent area, it should not be a square box, it should not extend higher than the top of the vent, and it should not extend over the top of the fridge. I fixed mine with some soft aluminum made for 4" dryer venting so I have a nice gentle curve out the top vent (the installers don't seem to care about that either)
Overall I did a tremendous amount of work on my fridge and brought the performance from "un-acceptable" to "decent". Some of that work involved top vent fans, condenser fans and evaporator fans. I also totally re did the inferior installation that the factory did including venting my flue gas to the outside which the instructions clearly state you must do in every case but again, the installers don't seem to pay that any mind either.
See attached link that explains proper venting. Unfortunately with two side vents you will never achieve "good" but you can achieve "almost good". If you do fans, don't get too aggressive, you want a nice, gentle assist to the natural convection. Too aggressive and you will upset the natural air flow that is part of the absorption process. Computer fans work well, I put 2-3" muffins under the condenser and 2 slow moving 8" PC fans at the top vent.
https://www.fridge-and-solar.net/fridge_vent.htm
One of the best improvements was the evaporator fans, even if you can buy a battery powered fridge fan for now it will help keep the air inside the fridge circulating and the fins from icing as much, but look into the clip on evaporator fans at Amazon. You can wire them to the light or to the 12 volts on the back of the fridge thru the drain tube.