Changing Fridge Electric Heating Element 1992 Minnie Winnie DL

[Washington]

Hello All!
Back to resurrecting my brother in law's 1992 Minnie Winnie DL with a Norcold 680 two way frig.

Unit works on propane, but not on AC. After troubleshooting through manuals and threads, I found the 5amp power board fuse blows when on AC. This lead me to test the ohms on the AC electric heater. It tested at only 9 ohms unplugged from board. Ordered a new one--621702. With the leads disconnected, the fuse does not blow and 120 volts is present at AC terminal blades.

Question:
Has anyone have experience getting the heating element replaced on an older Winnie with very limited access without moving frig? There is such a small access door. After seeing how many bolts, screws, roof attachment and sealers it takes to break these puppies loose, I really am hoping to be able to change the element with the frig in place.

[bigb]

It might be tough if you don't have good access to the boiler tube. Even with good access you still might have to cut a bigger access hole in the sheet metal that contains the tube. I had to cut an access hole in mine then patch it up, and that was to install a heat sensor for a Fridge Defend with the fridge removed!

If the access door on the sheet metal is big enough, and you can reach in there, you may just be able to lift the element up and out and slip the new one in. From my understanding they are just wedged into place between the insulation and the boiler tube but my only experience is with Dometic.

[Washington]

Originally Posted by bigb

It might be tough if you don't have good access to the boiler tube. Even with good access you still might have to cut a bigger access hole in the sheet metal that contains the tube. I had to cut an access hole in mine then patch it up, and that was to install a heat sensor for a Fridge Defend with the fridge removed!

If the access door on the sheet metal is big enough, and you can reach in there, you may just be able to lift the element up and out and slip the new one in. From my understanding they are just wedged into place between the insulation and the boiler tube but my only experience is with Dometic.

Thanks Brian. Will have to see what I can or can't do...perhaps with some bloody knuckles and curse words I'll be successful. The videos I've watched makes it look pretty easy once to get access.

[Ray,IN]

Sometimes the AC heater rusts in place and is hard to break free. If that has happened a good rust buster is required to soak it loose. This requires some fore-thought; spraying a flammable liquid around an open flame might get too exciting. Try to find a brand that is not flammable, like Superzilla.

[Washington]

Originally Posted by Ray,IN

Sometimes the AC heater rusts in place and is hard to break free. If that has happened a good rust buster is required to soak it loose. This requires some fore-thought; spraying a flammable liquid around an open flame might get too exciting. Try to find a brand that is not flammable, like Superzilla.

Thanks! Been soaking with PB Blaster a few times a day for 3 days, trying to break free with twisting and tapping with hammer on bottom of probe tip—no sign of breaking free.
Last night took a picture with flashlight and discovered a second unused tube welded next to the one that is rusted. I couldn’t believe I didn’t see it all along. I believe the extra tube was there for three way models, mine is a two way,. I’m just going to leave the old one and install new one in the extra tube. I’m thrilled I have another option. All the videos I watched had one tube or two tubes with two heater probes.

[Ray,IN]

Actually that 2nd tube makes sense. During the manufacturing process it is easier to just add the 2nd tube for the models requiring the 2nd heater element that run 2 separate models in the welding section.


After you use the heating element in the 2nd tube, it might loosen the original so you can remove it, then still have a spare.