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Old 07-27-2013, 07:00 PM   #1
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No hot water pressure

Posting this on the Winnie forum vs Tech because I want to make sure I haven't missed anything from the Winnie side...

Woke up to no hot water from faucets. To be clear, am talking no water flow at all from hot water side from any faucet, not a "hot" issue. Cold water side (am on shore water) works fine. Was working fine before this, nothing touched. Checked the bypass valves etc, all ok, which is what I assumed since I didn't do anything. FYI, heater is Atwood 10 gal gas/elec combo.

First diagnostic: turned on the water heater bypass to cut off water to the heater. Drained the water heater completely (was full of hot water) and used a flush-out nozzle on a hose to clean heater out.

Leaving drain plug open, I turned the bypass back to normal and water flowed into the heater (and out the drain valve) so it seems to me there is no problem getting cold water into the heater. So seems everything normal as far as getting water into heater.

Replaced drain plug, refilled water heater. Still no pressure/flow from hot water side of faucets.

Reading other postings/forums I've found it's likely there is a check valve on the hot water output side of the heater. I would suspect that it has failed.

So my question... is there anything else from the Winnie-specific side that I could consider, or does is seem likely that it is a check valve failure? Anything I've missed? Have found the access hole under the coach that, with a lot of hassle and cursing should allow me to remove the valve, but want to make sure I haven't missed anything stupid before tackling this repair.

Thanks,
Ed
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Old 07-27-2013, 08:31 PM   #2
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That is the only common thing I can think of. You might check with the factor helpline Monday but that is too many days without hot water.

Hope you get into hot water soon!

Rick
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Old 07-27-2013, 08:59 PM   #3
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I think you are headed in the right direction.

My check valve failed a few years ago. I was near a service center that could replace it. I saved the old one and knocked the center out ... I could use it for a future emergency ...

You only need the check valve when you winterize ... so until you need to winterize you can remove the center and put it back in ...
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Old 07-28-2013, 02:46 PM   #4
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Thanks all. Was able to get the valve out, does appear bad, so replacing next week.
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Old 07-29-2013, 04:20 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by emiddleb View Post
Thanks all. Was able to get the valve out, does appear bad, so replacing next week.
as skigramp said, you can take the check valve that you removed apart and take the guts out of it.
there are 2 check valves, inlet and outlet on your water heater.
camco makes brass check valves. female: 88203213
male 23303. they cost about $9 each.
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Old 07-29-2013, 05:33 PM   #6
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I replaced the check valve on outlet side (top outlet) of my water heater today. Ended up using a electric impact wrench to loosen old one up. Picked up a new check valve and a spare (only $6.99 ea.). Whitehorse Rv, Williamstown,NJ had them in stock. Also replaced w/ new washers. Blew air through the old one, every other time it would not open.
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Old 07-29-2013, 05:35 PM   #7
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Thanks for all your help, I was pulling my hair out trying to figure out why My hot water stopped all of a sudden. Thank you to everyone on these forums!
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Old 08-10-2013, 06:24 PM   #8
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I think this is happening to us this weekend.

Where is the check valve accessible? Inside the compartment ? Or from underneath ?

Thanks for post.
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Old 08-10-2013, 09:47 PM   #9
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Yours may be different, but for what it's worth...

My Atwood 10 gal water heater has two check valves, both are on the back of the unit. The lower one on mine is the cold water inlet, the upper one, which is the one that failed, is the hot water output.

Access for mine was from underneath the coach... a cutout that allowed me to remove the old valve and install a new one. The only way I found it was on my back under the coach looking behind the water heater.
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Old 08-11-2013, 06:25 AM   #10
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I did mine from inside the compartment. It was a tight fit with no room to operate but I (Got R Done). That was a few years back by the way.
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Old 08-11-2013, 09:40 AM   #11
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Thanks for the replies. I was able to remove the check valve on the lower (inlet) side of the water heater. The plastic disc and spring let loose.

Reassembled and we have hot water once again !

Thanks again for the search feature and everyone replying.
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Old 08-26-2013, 05:19 PM   #12
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Replaced both check valves with all brass construction.
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