Okay, we can move with more assurance that we are looking at the right thing!
This is the set of drawings that are the plumbing on your rV:
https://www.winnebago.com/Files/File...d30b_plumb.pdf
since cold is okay we can look for hot problems alone! Water has to come in, go to heater before the rest of the RV so we cut the chase a bunch.
Down about page 4 is the parts I would check or look for repair?
First is to make sure the bypass valve near the water pump is in the right position to let water go to the water heater! No water in means no water out!
Click these snips for better view!
The valve to check
But then if the valve is right to align with the pipe going to the heater, the next ugly step is to look at the check valves on the heater back as mentioned.
There are two valves, one for in and one for out. There are some RV which you can access these valves by prying off some of the interior panels as easier than removing the heater out the side?? Do some looking and maybe get lucky?
But you may wat to do some testing before that. One way to test if it is the valve going in or out, is to open the lever on the temp and pressure relief valve with the wat all turned on.
Safer to do this when the water heater has NOT been heating as a way to avoid burns!!!
Do you get a steady stream of water telling you the input valve is open okay? Then if you get no hot water any place in the RV, it is likely the output check valve is clogged.
One way to try to avoid removing the heater and all that involves is to try shooting air back wards through a stuck check valve!
If you open the lines to and from the heater at some point that is handy, you "MIGHT" be able to blow some trach like rust out of the valve at the heater??
Big "IF" but big trouble avoided if it works?
I go a long way to avopid remving the heater!