Is it supposed to pour water out the bottom?

[Okimar]

I'm totally new to RVs...

I hooked my coach up to a water to fill my fresh water tank and after a few minutes, water started pouring out the bottom of my RV.

Does it sound like there's something wrong or I could be doing sonething wrong?

I'm in the process of taking out the kitchen faucet to replace it because it was frozen in the open position and figured I should probably get a faucet that I like better while I'm at it.

(2006 Winnebago Adventurer 38t)

[Eagle5]

Hi Okimar,
It probably is the tank overflow. Does your tank show that it is full on your interior gauge panel?
Welcome to the forum.
Eagle5

[RV-Travelers]

I agree it's probably a tank overflow.

Our Class B Era has a 28 gallon fresh tank. With a pressure reducer and filter in line, it takes about 8 minutes to fill our tank from empty at our house. When it's full and the incoming water is still on, it will overflow from the top of the tank.

[Okimar]

So, if I understand this correctly, I should be able to throw a switch in the outer compartment when it overflows and the city water pressure should give me enough pressure to make my faucets usable?

I have a faulty kitchen faucet that I've removed it and now have a residential replacement waiting to be installed with what I hope are the required adaptors to connect it as soon as I can.

I'll check it and try checking the levels on the panel when the rain stops today.

Have either of you found the level indicators to be accurate at all with your water tanks and propane, or do they typically show completely random and inaccurate readings like my mom's coachman?

I know Winne claims better accuracy based on their use of sonic sensors, but I have no prior personal experience with it.

[RV-Travelers]

I never leave our ERA hooked up to a water supply, so I can't answer that part of the question. We are rarely anywhere more than 1 night so we just fill the tank from time to time and disconnect.

As far as the gauges go, ours don't seem to work very well. After we returned home from our last trip we drained all the tanks (fresh, gray and black), hooked up the black tank sprayer to flush it and then drained it. With no water (or hopefully anything else) in the tank, it currently shows 2/3rds full. Go figure.

[Eagle5]

Hi again Okimar,
In reviewing page 7-2 of your Owner's Manual, I read this:

City Water Use:
Connect hose to city water connection as described in previous steps. Turn Fresh Water Valve to Normal position and turn demand water pump switches OFF.

There are additional admonitions in this section seven as well.
Thanks, Eagle5

[SpudNYC]

All of the RVs I’ve seen have both a fill AND city water connection. The city water connection bypasses the fresh water tank and provides pressurized water to your rig while the water tank requires a pump to create pressure. If you’re seeing water pouring out after a few minutes, the tank is likely full and is simply releasing overflow. If you’re camped at a site that provides water, make sure you connect it to the proper city water connection on your rig. And use a pressure limiter just in case theirs is to high for your plumbing. Oh, and a filter because…. You don't want to be drinking what might be in there.

[Okimar]

Originally Posted by RV-Travelers

.

As far as the gauges go, ours don't seem to work very well. After we returned home from our last trip we drained all the tanks (fresh, gray and black), hooked up the black tank sprayer to flush it and then drained it. With no water (or hopefully anything else) in the tank, it currently shows 2/3rds full. Go figure.

That's interesting... I've questioned the accuracy of mine too.

I know that's a problem across the board with all RVs, but I was hoping the external sonic sensors wouldn't have that problem.

I wonder if the sensors go bad and can be replaced without the horrific mess that all other sensors make because they physically go thru the wall of the tanks.

[Okimar]

Correct.

I read that before, as I was lucky enough to actually get the owner's manuals and a 10" pile of other random documentation.

Maybe I screwed up... I was a day away from being stranded in the Mojave Desert due to having no working AC in over 120 degree temps for two days and being a heat casualty again.

I have no clue how many times I've collapsed alone in the Mojave, Gobi and Arabian over the years before that time and it takes me longer each time to recover.

My head didn't fully clear up this time for 2 weeks.

I'll try it again soon. Thanks.

[dnta]

Originally Posted by Okimar

"...water started pouring out the bottom of my RV."

Okimar: I used to fill the onboard tank and would keep an eye under the RV waiting for the 'not so small' overflow to occur, then would turn the faucet off. However, for what it's worth, 3 Techs at my large and GREAT RV dealer/service center, told me not to do that - as over time it caused issues for my rig. They said (and I now do it) to only use the inside level light to stop it before it overflows. I get it some have inaccurate level readings. Mine seem to be fine. So now I stay inside and wait for the 3/4 light - and then the moment I see a tiny flash of red on the full light, I run out and turn the faucet off. No more overflow.

[Winterbagoal]

Are the main tank and low point drains closed? Maybe the coach was winterized before you acquired it, and the tank/low point drains were left open. Look inside the external water bay and check the positions of the valves for each to what's in the Owners Manual. If I forget to close them while de-winterizing my Navion, I see water spilling out the bottom on the driveway.

[Morich]

Sometimes pictures are lots easier as you can compare them to what you see in the RV?
This is the set of drawings for the drain and fresh water:
https://www.winnebago.com/Files/File...g38t_plumb.pdf

I went to the fresh water supply drawing and did a couple snips of what looks important to me. See if the spot where water comes out matches where the overflow should be?
If not there areother points where drains may beopen as well and there may be more with other valves to search out??? Broken pipes might be a problem , too. but no need to jump to that until other things are checked!

Click these drawings or go direct for a better view.
See if this helps?

[Okimar]

What type of issues were caused with your rig by filling the water to the point that it overflowed?

[Winterbagoal]

Originally Posted by Okimar

So, if I understand this correctly, I should be able to throw a switch in the outer compartment when it overflows and the city water pressure should give me enough pressure to make my faucets usable?

I have a faulty kitchen faucet that I've removed it and now have a residential replacement waiting to be installed with what I hope are the required adaptors to connect it as soon as I can.

I'll check it and try checking the levels on the panel when the rain stops today.

Have either of you found the level indicators to be accurate at all with your water tanks and propane, or do they typically show completely random and inaccurate readings like my mom's coachman?

I know Winne claims better accuracy based on their use of sonic sensors, but I have no prior personal experience with it.

My fresh/holding tank sensors are pretty accurate.
It's the propane sensor that always shows much lower than actual tank level.

re: Tank overflow problems. Potentially water damage to wood. I've only owned one RV (Roadtrek 190P) that I was able to overfill/overflow the fresh tank on, and I don't think there was any major grief as a result.

p.s. @Morich - nice job with the diagrams.

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by dnta

Okimar: I used to fill the onboard tank and would keep an eye under the RV waiting for the 'not so small' overflow to occur, then would turn the faucet off. However, for what it's worth, 3 Techs at my large and GREAT RV dealer/service center, told me not to do that - as over time it caused issues for my rig. They said (and I now do it) to only use the inside level light to stop it before it overflows. I get it some have inaccurate level readings. Mine seem to be fine. So now I stay inside and wait for the 3/4 light - and then the moment I see a tiny flash of red on the full light, I run out and turn the faucet off. No more overflow.

What issues did they say it caused?

I do this all the time by accident getting busy etc., and in some cases on purpose, because depending on where I travel, I want the maximum amount of fresh water in my 70 gal tank as possible.

I actually can think of some advantages; as one being that I know my overflow fresh water line is not clogged and works. This is something only done BEFORE a trip so it is not that frequent that it occurs.

But if I doing something that could cause issues, I would like to know?

[Okimar]

Oh... That would be a problem with wood, which is most commonly used to build travel trailers.

There are a few fully aluminum framed trailers out there.

But, I decided that if were to be willing to layout the cash for those, I would be safer and more comfortable with something with an engine.

(That's when I became determined to find a coach with the Chevy 8.1L/Allison 6-Speed and Workhorse W24 chassis.)

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by Winterbagoal

My fresh/holding tank sensors are pretty accurate.
It's the propane sensor that always shows much lower than actual tank level.

re: Tank overflow problems. Potentially water damage to wood. I've only owned one RV (Roadtrek 190P) that I was able to overfill/overflow the fresh tank on, and I don't think there was any major grief as a result.

p.s. @morich - nice job with the diagrams.

So far all my sensors have been accurate, fresh, holding and propane

I don't know of other coaches especially of trailers, but my over flow drain is same blue pex hose used for all of my drain lines. It extends underneath the chassis so it goes straight to the ground.

If it is a leak that is a concern, I recall when my coach was new, the fiitting on top of my gray tank was not properly sealed. Had I not let it overflow to see where it would back up to; I never would have known of the leak. Winnebago repaired under warranty.

[Winterbagoal]

Wood, fibreboard, and other composites (still) get used in most motorhomes. Just because you can't always see it, doesn't mean there isn't any. It's still there. Somewhere.

[Morich]

IF the fitting on the overflow is tight as it should be AND the tube does reach all the way out of the bottom, I can see no harm in overflowing and I have done it often.
Both through mind failure and through just letting it run as a way to try to put some fresh clean water with chlorine on all parts of the tank like the top.

I raised tropical fish and probably got too aware of the grimy yuck that forms on things when they are just around water but not in it!

One of the things I have noticed on repair folks is that they can tend toward warning you about things before they are real problems?
Like the folks who still insist on changing oil at 3000 miles when the maintenance minder says you are not near needing a change? The book may say do it at 6000 but Jiffy Lube likes it changed at 3000!

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by Morich

IF the fitting on the overflow is tight as it should be AND the tube does reach all the way out of the bottom, I can see no harm in overflowing and I have done it often.
Both through mind failure and through just letting it run as a way to try to put some fresh clean water with chlorine on all parts of the tank like the top.

I raised tropical fish and probably got too aware of the grimy yuck that forms on things when they are just around water but not in it!

One of the things I have noticed on repair folks is that they can tend toward warning you about things before they are real problems?
Like the folks who still insist on changing oil at 3000 miles when the maintenance minder says you are not near needing a change? The book may say do it at 6000 but Jiffy Lube likes it changed at 3000!

also like the seasoned HVAC Repair Technician that insist your AC Evap Coil and Condenser should be flushed and clean with foam degreasers twice a year Yeah maybe if you live in the Sahara Desert or live on a country farm.

Now, what the RV Service guys should be telling you, is what all you should check every 6 months and every year? Don't tell me to not wash my roof because it might rain, show me how to inspect my roof for leaks; so I can wash my roof whenever I please