I need some help.
My hot water system is driving me crazy. And I am sure it is my fault.
First a little history: The coach is new to us, and this is only the third time we have had it out. The first two times we had no problem. This time I had a leak upon hook up. This turned out to be a broken bathroom faucet, and I replaced it and then finished the hook-up.
Now the troubles began. After hooking up I had only a dribble from the hot water side of the tap. I tested the shower and kitchen with the same results.
We have an Atwood 10 gallon water heater (model GCH10A-4E) with a manufacture date of 11/02/05. Apparently it is what they call a two valve system
(white lettering on pink background) has two positions: 1) Normal, and 2) Water-Heater Bypass.
(black lettering on pink background) has two positions: 1) Normal, and 2) Winterize.
There is also a third on/off valve (unnumbered) that is labeled Fresh Water Drain. This valve is simply open to the ground under the coach.
With both valves in the Normal position I get good flow but no
hot water. When I put Valve 1 in the Water-Heater Bypass position, I get a dribble of flow, but
the water is hot!
From reading through the web, here are things I have checked:
- water-heater is cycling
- outside shower taps are both off
So what am I missing? I am pretty sure this coach was never winterized as it has always been in Houston, TX. I know I never winterized my previous B+ in 10 years.
I have tried to read as much as I can about this, but the only thing I am seeing at the moment is check-valve failure. Honestly, I am hoping that isn't it.
Any suggestions? Please!