My Vectra has a Atwood GC10a -4e 10 gal hot water heater. Time for a new one. Except not available and no one seems to know when they will be getting any. Any suggestions on Atwood, which is now Dometic, Or should I get a Suburban?
Dwmooney: Why do you think it's time for a new one?
These things can last forever and can be repaired cheap if you know how to work on them. It does take some effort to figure out, but most repairs are manageable by the average backyard mechanic with help from diagrams posted below.
However, after you try a few things and are still stumped, then often you need some "artistry" from a qualified HWH tech, because what is not obvious to you and me maybe easily identified by a mobile mechanic who repairs these all the time. ...And when you see how fast these guys can get your HWH working, you will kick yourself in the head wishing you watched a YouTube video to do it yourself.
On the other hand, if you find you are always without hot water for some reason, and you are tired of the repair bills, or the wait to get your HWH repaired at a shop, and you decide to upgrade to a "Hot Water On-Demand" system, please let us know what is involved with that? ...Because someday I may go that route myself.
Here's some technical diagrams for my HWH that is the same as yours. (See attached .pdf.) What I do not know is if those control boards are still available? ...There is a company called Dinosaur Electronics in Oregon who specializes in older RV HWH and gas refrigerator control boards, if they are still in business?
Alternatively, if you are having hot water delivery problems then maybe your tank check valves are broken or stuck?
I removed my tank check valves (both of them) after 3 days of cold water showers and that was 3 years ago.
Another upgrade to eliminate hot water shower bursts is to install a shark bite check valve as close to our bathroom sink inlet as possible. See diagram below.
Note: If you find your hot water showers pulse with scalding water after camping with a water source, then chances are you just need to LOWER the water in the tank. (Remember... Hot water rises to the top of the tank.) To lower the water level and expand the Air Pocket in the tank, just turn off your water pressure and open the Relief Valve... and let the water run out of the tank. Then close the valve and see if your shower pulses are gone when you turn the water pressure back on.
From what I've read, Atwood water heaters don't require a sacrificial anode. Suburban water heaters do, and they need to be inspected and replaced periodically.
Linear Mode
