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Old 06-04-2020, 01:26 PM   #1
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2008 Access door handle won't move

The white interior handle is frozen. It won't go up or down. It doesn't matter if the locks are locked or unlocked.



I have taken the face plate off. The outside black handle falls right off into my hand. The inside white plate stays connected by a rod to the right of the plate. I can't get the plate off the door.


On the side of the door is a black round thing that looks like a stopper. It seems to be just where the rod is attached. But I can't get the "stopper" off. Is it supposed to be removable?


The rod has a threaded end, and the place where the rod is attached to something like a socket is loose and wiggling around.


How do I completely removed the inside white plate from the door? And . . . if I were to get it off, how do I get the new part back on? I haven't ordered the part yet, because I don't know if I can get the old plate disconnected from the door.
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Old 06-04-2020, 02:24 PM   #2
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Did a little checking of the parts as that will show screws, etc. that may help. Not certain of exact right one without knowing the RV (length?) but likely to be the same.
The drawing seems to show only a single long screw from the inside screwing into the outside portion.
Obvious you have the main screw out, so is it possible a bit of jarring/ gentle prying is needed to break a kind of bond" formed on the inside?
A second thought might be to spray some lube like WD-40 in on any parts without taking it further?
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Old 06-04-2020, 02:38 PM   #3
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Inside portion with screw being number 5. Second picture outside part viewed from inside?
Does this match what you have?
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Old 06-04-2020, 03:22 PM   #4
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My Lock Plate Is Different Than the Pictures

It's a 2008 Access, 23' long.



Neither the inside nor the outside drawings look like mine. But thank you for trying.
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Old 06-04-2020, 03:54 PM   #5
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Looks like I'm coming up totally dry on the parts idea. I see there is a 231 C and 231J model of that year but both have the same latch shown. All 2008 Access seem to show the same latch.
That leaves some doubts as it might be that the drawings are not correct or it is also possible that your latch has been replaced at some time. Is it possible/practical for you to post a picture and perhaps others might know or recognize what you have?
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Old 06-04-2020, 04:18 PM   #6
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Old 06-04-2020, 06:27 PM   #7
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Look at the white handle from the bottom, is there a set screw down there holding it on to a shaft of some sort?
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Old 06-04-2020, 06:43 PM   #8
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In that bottom photo the second lock is locked.

Do you realize there are two locks? The white one on top and the red one under the handle? Just like there are two keyed locks on the outside.

If that red lock is locked... the handle won't move.
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Old 06-04-2020, 06:53 PM   #9
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Locks Aren't the Problem

The handle doesn't move at all, no matter where the locks are. Even when I unscrew the plate and am holding the white plate in my hand, the handle doesn't move.


Mind you, yes, I'm holding the plate in my hand, but it's still attached to the door via the threaded rod on the right side of the plate.


As I said in the original message, I can take the outside plate completely off and lay it on the ground. I can't get the white plate out of the door. And the screw hole where the threaded rod goes is wiggling all over the place.


Because there's a black round something-or-other on the edge of the door frame, I have a feeling it's a stopper and should be removable. It's right on the other side of where the wiggly part is. But it doesn't seem to be removable. It's too fragile to shimmy a screwdriver or other flat blade under it without breaking it. I put a razor blade under it and tried to pry it out, but the razor blade broke.


I can't show you a picture of the black circle because I'd have to take the door apart . . . for about the 20th time. Sigh.
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Old 06-04-2020, 07:00 PM   #10
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Reply to Podivin

No, there are no screws under the handle.


And, by the way, in response to creativepart, while I was outside just now looking for a screw, I moved the red lock up (unlocked it). The handle is still unmovable.
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Old 06-04-2020, 07:20 PM   #11
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Maybe take a bit closer look at the drawings and compare with the pictures. It is certainly true that first look makes them seem totally different and the outside section is viewed from the inside, making it seem totally wrong.
But if we look at the locations of the parts on the inside view and do some comparision, they match!
See where your screw is compared to number five on the drawing? Your red knob matches up with where it says "lock" on the drawing and your dead bolt matches the handle of their open/lock at the top.
I did not go beyond looking for parts to hold the latch outside and inner together but it does seem to only have the one long screw to hold it together and locks do often have a set screw to remove the inner handle, as Podivin suggests.
I think it is the right drawing for the working parts but probably lots of different cosmetic details on different years and models.
I just checked my 2015 RV and find it has the same basic parts but now I see has three screws to hold inner and outer together but I also spotted what you might be seeing and calling a black plug. I have what I might call a black cover or plug, depending on view and wording. My item looks very much like a thin plastic cover and I do not have a set screw on the inner handle, so my move would be to gently try to pry the black plug out to see if there is some other item holding it in place.
Anybody ever taken this plug out to see what's there??
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Old 06-04-2020, 07:35 PM   #12
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Prying the Black Plastic Plug Off

The piece of black plastic is very fragile. I don't want to force it off. I think it will break . . . if it even comes off. It didn't budge when I put the razor blade under it. As I said above, it's too thin to put anything thicker than a razor blade under it. If it were rubber, I'd feel more comfortable about playing with it, but it's not rubber. It's almost like a sticker.



Yes, the inside and outside are held together with three screws. You can't see the third screw in the photograph. It's under the handle, near the red lock.


I suppose I could go outside tomorrow and take the plates off one more time and take pictures of everything. I'm very tired of taking the door apart.


I really appreciate everyone who is trying to figure this out. I'd like to be able to order the part and replace it myself rather than paying a shop to do the work.
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Old 06-04-2020, 07:39 PM   #13
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Morich, the picture you attached is on its side, right? It's not straight up, is it?



Your black circle is much more substantial than mine.
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Old 06-04-2020, 07:57 PM   #14
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Here's something I found via a link from another posting about a stuck door:


Quote:
Thanks for the suggestions. As it turns out I did find the problem and lube would not help.

On my Newmar door the outer handle is very simple. The part you grab has a ‘finger’ extending inward at the bottom. This ‘finger’ pushes back on a plate attached to the inner handle. The inner handle needs to be lifted up to open the door. It does this by pulling on a bar that operates the latch-unlocking mechanism. The inner handle plate also has the door locking mechanism as part of its design.

Bolted to the door frame is the latch that operates like millions of car door latches with a few design changes to accommodate the RV. In short it is not complicated.

Okay, so here’s the problem I had. When I pulled on the outer door handle the ‘finger’ pushed on the inner door handle as it was designed to do. When the outer handle was about 45 - 50 it would open the door. But today that outer handle went beyond that to, say, 60 and jammed. When I pulled the whole mechanism apart the outer handle snapped shut and moved freely. The inner mechanism also moved freely. The door latch also moved freely. Hmmmm. The next morning, after the sun was up, I had a closer look and found the problem.

The inner handle, which pretty much runs the door opening show by pulling on the latch mechanism bar, had to move so far that the outer door ‘finger’ got jammed into the end of it. Once I released a bit of pressure it snapped back to normal.

Now the fix. On the door jam just below the latch is a plastic plug. I pulled that off and got out my long socket and tightened the bolt on the rod that connects the inner handle apparatus to the latch mechanism two turns. Now the outer handle opens the door when pulled out about 25. Simple, easy and done.

By the way, that bolt I tightened is a nylon self-locking one. Perhaps it was age or perhaps a previous adjustment caused the latch pull-bar to go out of tolerance but now I know the fix. And it is sure easy, but the door must be open. __________________
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Old 06-04-2020, 08:09 PM   #15
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And here's another quote from Trimark, the possible maker of the door latch system. I can't quite follow the instructions, but it seems that whoever wrote it is on the right track:


My TriMark 30-900 Door Will Not Open & I’m Locked Out! … And the Camlock (key cylinder) is not the problem
This is happening because there is a little tap (on the outside-half of the TriMark lock) that gets bent with use. This tab can also be temperature sensitive so don’t be surprised if this lockout problem only happens when it gets cold outside (35F and below).
The problem is this: That tab is no longer engaging with the locking mechanism. And the solution is to bend the tab back into position.
Fortunately, this repair is simple… but only if you can get the door open. So don’t let this problem repeat itself before you do something about it!
…If you are locked out, don’t give up trying to raddle the door open… and spray the cam lock with WD-40 if you need to. You may even find a hair dryer will heat up the lock and you an open the door that way!
WITH THE DOOR OPEN… You need to split the TriMark lock halves apart; and then on the OUTER-HALF of the lock, you need to bend that bottom brass looking tab upward! This is the tab located in the picture below that is just to the upper-right of the shiny post/pin. (Look closely. The tab is flat and is looking straight at you.)




INSIDE OF LOCK [right here there's supposed to be a photo of the lock plate, but I don't know how to copy it. Here's the whole link to this quoted article. It's in response #14:
https://www.winnieowners.com/forums/...ck-353371.html


The Repair Process 1. Use a “Star-Bit” screwdriver to remove the three screws that hold the outer and inner assemblies together. Note: These will only separate partially. 2. Use a pair of pliers or bent-nose pliers to get inside… and bend the tab up (away) from the shiny post/pin in the photo. Bend it just 1/16. 3. Once this is done, put the inner and outer assemblies into place, align them properly and replace the three screws. 4. Then follow the lock adjustment instructions below by adjusting the nut … found inside the door edge… behind the peel off cover plate. 5. Examine your door striker bolt too. It can wear a bit. We wet sanded ours smooth and then rotated it 90-degrees so “new metal” contacts with the door locking cams.

*** TriMark 30-900 Nut Adjustment for BOTH Foam Core Door and Metal Doors
1. ALWAYS KEEPING THE DOOR OPEN.
2. Lock the handle from the inside (using the lower manual lock lever)
3. While pulling up on the inside handle (manually)… then turn the nut (behind the door edge cover) clockwise until the latch releases. You will need a skinny, deep 7/16 socket to get to the nut.
4. Manually turn the nut counterclockwise 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 turns.
5. Unlock the door -- and open the door -- from the inside handle to test the door locking function. The latch should release before the inside handle when it reaches maximum travel.
6. Text the new adjustments several times. Then have someone inside the coach… and test the lock again only this time close and lock (then unlock) the door.
Need
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Old 06-04-2020, 08:10 PM   #16
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Finally for tonight, here's another link to a set of articles about my problem:


https://www.irv2.com/forums/f258/how...ch-362963.html
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Old 06-04-2020, 08:27 PM   #17
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Final note for the night!!! Yes, my picture came out on the side! Post fourty pictures and suddenly I get it sideways! Humm!
But it does sound like both those solutions are very close to what you have. Part of the inside mechanism is not moving some other small part. Never had an RV door latch fail me! My Brother did cut a guys door all to pieces at the other guys insistance!
Sounds like getting that plastic plug out is part of the secret, though.
I'm still guessing but I might see if I could make a holle in the thin plastic and force something like an allen key with a bend in the end to make a "handle" to pull with while prying. I'm guessing it is just the type thing that snaps into place. If a small Rv parts dealer is anywhere closeby, maybe looking at a latch would give you a good idea of what to look for on yours?
Sleep well and fight the good fight all fresh in the morning?
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Old 06-05-2020, 09:08 AM   #18
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Here's the Issue

Good Morning Richard,
I took everything apart this morning and took tons of pictures. I found the problem, but I don't know how to fix it. The pictures will show you. It's a round gold rod attached to the door frame which accepts a black hook from inside the door. After they're meshed together, the black hook won't release. And that has to do with the white handle on the plate. I'll have to send two messages because it looks like I can attach only four pictures to each message.
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Old 06-05-2020, 09:15 AM   #19
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The Rod Attached to the Black Hook

Second set of pictures. These show the threaded rod which attaches to some kind of screw thing which is all wiggly. The first picture shows the back of the white plate. The big black thing is connected to the white handle on the other side of the plate. At the bottom left corner you can see the start of the threaded rod. The third picture shows the rod going into what looks like a washer, but isn't. I think it's a screw that has become loose. The screw must be connected to the hook above it.
It seems like you'd have to take the door apart to get at all the pieces that need to be repaired.
Kathleen
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Old 06-05-2020, 09:44 AM   #20
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The black cap covers a nut on the end of the "threaded rod". It's an adjustment. Taking the nut off will let you remove the inner handle.
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