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Old 12-27-2012, 04:00 PM   #1
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Angry water heater not working on LP 02 Journey

coach is new to us and of course water heater worked fine on PDI. We normaly run it on electric which is still working but switched it over the other day because we were only on a 30amp site and needed the power for a space heater. During the night I heard the WH fire up and was running as normal then it would start to sputter and go out but would relight on its own and run fine again for another 2-3 minutes and then sputter again before relighting. I just figured it needed cleaned. Now it will not light at all, turn the switch on in coach get a green light and the "pilot" light on the board does not come on at all. Any ideas? I'm thinking maybe gas valve?

thanks,

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Old 12-27-2012, 04:23 PM   #2
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Do you have an owners manual for your WH? If not, you might try the manufacturer's website for tech info and trouble shooting.

Have not had your problem, but have had similiar with the refer. Both units have electronic lighting devices. Our refer would not light on LP because of minor crud and such in the burner tube....would not allow gas to flow. Good vacuum cleaner cleaning solved that. Might be worth a shot on the WH. Doesn't seem to take much to shut the gas off....

Hopefully others will chime in with good suggestions. Please let us all know what you find out....will help a lot of us as well. Thanks!
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Old 12-27-2012, 06:17 PM   #3
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We had what sounds like a similar problem and solved it from reading this post:

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f54/atwoo...ml#post1199228

The above thread is addressing another problem but we found that what he mentions "Thridly" is what solved our problem. We cleaned the contacts going to the circuit board as like he said, it solves a lot of problems with DSI Atwoods.

If you don't already have it, I have attached an Atwood Troubleshooting guide (isolated the DSI part) to this post below. It may give you some other ideas on how to solve your problem.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf ATWOOD ELECTRONIC IGNITION MODELS.pdf (1.43 MB, 234 views)
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Old 12-27-2012, 07:15 PM   #4
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Wow Amanda, great info. Thanks!
I will get busy tomorrow following some of the trouble shooting guides.

Phil
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Old 12-27-2012, 09:36 PM   #5
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Cleaning all the connectors by pulling off and pushing on several times or even cleaning with a clean pencil eraser is a good start. Next I would check the "thermal fuse link", that was the problem on mine and mine had the same symptoms.

Atwood Thermal Cut-Off Kit #93866
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Old 12-28-2012, 08:46 AM   #6
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Phil
Some water heaters acted as you described were starving for air.
Do a test. Open your outside heater door or crack it open a bit, and try it again and see if it works OK.
I have heard that some have slightly enlarged a gap down lower to provide more air to eliminate just this problem.
Of course you will need to get it to light off 1st.
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Old 12-28-2012, 10:18 AM   #7
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I had the same problem (fires up them dies). I cleaned all the ground contacts and that solved the problem. Good luck
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Old 12-29-2012, 11:45 AM   #8
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"Sputter" is the key word to oxygen starvation, and there has been allot of info in the past. Open the door(s) and I'll bet it runs just fine?

Several things I did:
- 'V' bend the bottom of the door to allow air in. (this actually turned into a factory mod)
- On the 2006 Meridian there was actually an intake vent built into the external door, but for who knows whatever dumb reason, Atwood never bothered to vent the WH door... So I did.

I have also seen people punch holes in the bottom of the frame to allow it to breathe. And there appears to be no rhyme or reason why one stutters, and another one doesn't. I watched them swap every part in mine with the exception of the tank with a brand new unit sitting on the lot, and they couldn't fix the problem.

Found Pix:

V-Door Mod


-Meridian Slotted Door


-My Atwood Door mod that lines up with the Meridian slotted door



Electrically, you need to remove and clean all brackets that attach the igniter to the frame of the WH. That aluminum corrodes and will cause all kinds of problems wit the flame detect. I just did mine again, but this time added an ground jumper from the igniter bracket, to the common ground point of the control board.
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Old 12-30-2012, 06:25 AM   #9
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My 02 Journey had the oxygen starvation problem. Before changing out parts, open the door as a prior post suggests to see if that solves your problem.Winnebago sent me a rubber spacer to increase the airflow. Worked for me.
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Old 12-31-2012, 11:18 AM   #10
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thanks all for the suggestions. I got the chance to tear into it today. I found that the thermal cut off fuse tested open with my volt meter so changed it out. I also cleaned all the connections as well as removing the burner orifice which I cleaned with alcohol.
Happy to report it fired up and is working like a new one again.

Thanks again for all your help!

Phil
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Old 12-31-2012, 03:02 PM   #11
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Well take our suggestions anyway
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Old 12-31-2012, 08:58 PM   #12
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Found the equivalent thermal cutoff at Goodman's

93 degree C Thermal Cutoff

$1.00 ea in quantities of 10, plus $6.99 Priority Mail shipping
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Old 12-31-2012, 10:37 PM   #13
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This all just sunk in...

If you blew the thermal fuse then nothing will work, that's what it's for. You likely got starved for air and it backfired, opening the thermal fuse. So I would advise looking at all posted above again.
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Old 01-01-2013, 08:19 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SCVJeff View Post
Well take our suggestions anyway
SCVJeff,

not sure what you meant by the above post but maybe I should provide some more detail.

I did use ALL of the suggestions made and truly appreciate each and everyone.

Heapbigengin suggested a good cleaning, did that.

Amanda provided a very informative PDF file on trouble shooting from Atwood. I referred to it for guidance and have it saved for future use as well.

John Hilley suggested cleaning all the electrical connections and thought the thermal cutoff might be the issue. Did that and found the tco was open.

RCtime suggested the starving for air theory and provided a quick and easy test for it. Did the test first thing and still was a no go. He also provided a solution by bending the door to allow more air. Will consider this.

SCVJeff suggested the same as RCtime and you provided very clear and detailed photos that will come in handy for modifying the door if needed.

Charles Tuit had the same airflow issue as others and states that Winnnebago provided him with a spacer. I am calling Winnebago after the holidays and see if I can get one too. This seems to be the easiest mod, if not I will modify the door myself using the previous suggestions to allow for more air.

Right now, after running the heater from LP for several cycles (wife had a lot of laundry ) to test it, I am running the heater off the campground electric but wanted to get the gas side fixed should I need it.

Again,
Thank you to each and everyone that responded to my call for help. Your suggestions were all very helpful and I appreciate them more than you know.

Phil
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Old 01-01-2013, 11:04 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SCVJeff View Post
This all just sunk in...

If you blew the thermal fuse then nothing will work, that's what it's for. You likely got starved for air and it backfired, opening the thermal fuse. So I would advise looking at all posted above again.
My gut feeling is this is exactly what happened.
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Old 01-01-2013, 11:08 AM   #16
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The 1st comment was a joke (see smiley face). The 2nd one was after thinking about it for a day. I went down the same road as you. Not fun in the middle of a nice trip
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Old 01-01-2013, 11:25 AM   #17
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Phil, take a small wrench and remove the IGNITER, a scrub pad works great to clean both elements, JMHO, works for me.
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Old 01-01-2013, 11:36 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SCVJeff View Post
The 1st comment was a joke (see smiley face). The 2nd one was after thinking about it for a day. I went down the same road as you. Not fun in the middle of a nice trip
that's what I thought, but figured a little more info on what I did might help others. I am avoiding running it on LP until I make the mod to the door for more air because I still don't know why the tco blew so want to cover my bases.

Thanks again for your help,

Phil
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Old 01-02-2013, 02:24 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by workinrvers View Post
that's what I thought, but figured a little more info on what I did might help others. I am avoiding running it on LP until I make the mod to the door for more air because I still don't know why the tco blew so want to cover my bases.

Thanks again for your help,

Phil
do a forum search and you will find air starvation is a common problem with a fix.
i removed the plastic view window from the door and drilled 12 3/16'' holes in the bottom lip of my door.
then you need to adjust the flame with the air shutter so that is is mostly blue and it doesn't roar with the door closed. here is a link for that. (page 10).

http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/atwoodwaterheater.pdf
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