Winnebago 2301BHS Solar Project: Questions

[Sentry]

@FRED2106DS
You did not provide the link to the images you stated.

[Fred 2106DS]

Originally Posted by Sentry

@Fred 2106DS


You did not provide the link you suggested

Sentry,

Sorry, below are links with narratives and pictures for the different parts of my install. Let me know if you have more questions.

Fred

Moving tongue wiring into pass-thru

Solar Install 1

Solar Install 2

DC to DC Charger Install

AC wiring from the inverter to the WFCO automatic transfer

[Park Super]

your choice of wire size is woefully lacking. with your solar panel voltage you should consider 4/2 or at a minimum 6/2 from your combiner box to your charge controler. If you have a long run, over 20 feet, go with 4/2. 4/2 wire Typically used between a combiner box and a charge controller in 30A-40A (or 400W-600W) systems

[johnevans3]

Thank you so much for running the test with your MM and Tundra. Looks like good news for me. I have 1 Lithium 100AMP batter and my alternator is specified by factory at 130 amps. It may not be as powerful as your Tundra but based on your measurements, I think I will be just fine without going the DC/DC route. I would think that route would come into play for larger battery banks. Looks like plug and go for me.

[Fred 2106DS]

Originally Posted by johnevans3

Thank you so much for running the test with your MM and Tundra. Looks like good news for me. I have 1 Lithium 100AMP batter and my alternator is specified by factory at 130 amps. It may not be as powerful as your Tundra but based on your measurements, I think I will be just fine without going the DC/DC route. I would think that route would come into play for larger battery banks. Looks like plug and go for me.

John, your welcome. I didn't report this in my previous post, but the alternator readings were the maximum amperage recorded by my multimeter during each individual test, so the average amperage for each test would be slightly less.

[Sentry]

Well got the multi-plus in today. Work tomorrow and then Monday I’ll see where it fits.
If I can find a way to put pics in, I’ll do so

[Sentry]

Under bed storage...




Prior to plywood being placed





After plywood is placed. Still need to screw it in place.

[Sentry]

Here are the components laid out, this is just to see if everything will fit...


Being that the Charger/ Inverter weighs 40 lbs I may have to/ should attach to the side and attach another piece of plywood behind it for support...
As I do not think 1/2" will support the weight by itself...


The Charge controller may be the same issue.... Ill have to think about this... Suggestions?

[Sentry]

@Fred 2106DS

[Sentry]

I suppose I can move the Solar Disconnect to the pass through and out of the way... That would be the box all the way to the left in the pic...It would also make it more easily accessible.


Im also considering setting the component up more as shown in the diagram after placing that in the Pass through... A re run of the solar wires from the roof to the pass through should allow that yes?


I have to re run the wires from the roof due to length I believe... I do not imagine they gave me extra wire in the wall... I will find out tomorrow.

[GunPatriot]

Beautifully done. Thanks for the pictures. After a year. How is it now?

[Fred 2106DS]

Originally Posted by Sentry

Here are the components laid out, this is just to see if everything will fit...


Being that the Charger/ Inverter weighs 40 lbs I may have to/ should attach to the side and attach another piece of plywood behind it for support...
As I do not think 1/2" will support the weight by itself...


The Charge controller may be the same issue.... Ill have to think about this... Suggestions?

If possible, I would suggest shortening the length of the 1/2" plywood on the sides so you can double up on the rear plywood to mount your equipment to and still have it supported by the side pieces as your pictures currently show. Also, I would suggest mounting and connecting all of your equipment on the doubled plywood on a table outside of your underbed storage area and then mounting the doubled plywood in place in your underbed storage area and making your final connections. It will be much easier doing the majority of the work on a table outside of the underbed area.

[Fred 2106DS]

Originally Posted by Sentry

I suppose I can move the Solar Disconnect to the pass through and out of the way... That would be the box all the way to the left in the pic...It would also make it more easily accessible.


Im also considering setting the component up more as shown in the diagram after placing that in the Pass through... A re run of the solar wires from the roof to the pass through should allow that yes?


I have to re run the wires from the roof due to length I believe... I do not imagine they gave me extra wire in the wall... I will find out tomorrow.

You could re-run the wires if that is possible. If you can re-run your solar wires, you may want to consider running heavier wiring. The other option would be to extend the existing solar wiring.

[Sentry]

In reference to re running wire, it would be to 10 ga wire. That’s what I had purchased to accomplish this..
I will have to run the panels on top in series- parallel for now.

[Sentry]

Made a little progress today, I'm still not done, took a lunch break...


Doubled up plywood, measured for mounting screws and placement.

[Fred 2106DS]

Looks good!

[Sentry]

Not pictured, but I also cut 4/0 wires... This was easier than trying to do it whilst in compartment. Thank you @Fred 2106DS


I had to order larger Ferule Crimpers for the 2 AWG wire ferules...






This weekend, I will be getting into under belly hopefully without issue... I imagine I will have to remove front stabilizers to do this... Will need to make holes in floor, for wires to come in from present battery, as well as wires to go to converter.

[Sentry]

I cannot say I have made any real progress today... I guess I am enamored by dealing with the underbelly...


Made a couple battery wires, and played with shunt a bit... That got fun. Different build than in video...



I cut a couple of brackets to hold batteries in one place....







I have decided against trying to pull the plastic cardboard all the way down, vs cut openings and tape panels back on using zip tape.







I am curious about the first junction box.



I can see the battery wire (Thick Red wire)... Once I disconnect that from that junction box how does power get to those items which are connected to it.



What could the wires on the bus bar be?







Trailer lights are a given, those only work while its hooked up to truck. There are other wires there, I am not certain of... outside of the trailer jack. Still how would that get power?


Help is needed... Need to make progress this weekend or I'll be sitting in a dead trailer for two weeks... Outside of propane.

[joppo]

Originally Posted by Sentry

What could the wires on the bus bar be?

The images and diagrams in this thread from @tinglett were very helpful to me. While my box was slightly different, it was a great starting point. Hopefully these help you as well!

[Fred 2106DS]

I did not do anything with the wires inside the junction box. I just re-routed the wires that went to the original battery on the tongue (two white 6 AWG, one red 6 AWG and one black 10 AWG) to a new junction box I added in the pass-thru and then extended the wires from that new junction box to the batteries and shunt. The two white wires were connected to the negative OEM battery terminal and the red and black wires were connected to the positive OEM battery terminal. See pictures and yellow arrows that point to the re-routed wires below.

I did need to extend the black jack wire so it would reach the new pass-thru junction box. I used red wire for this extension. This butt connection can be seen in the first picture. All the other wires were long enough to reach the new junction box.