Winnebago 2301BHS Solar Project: Questions - Page 3

Sentry · 03-04-2022, 08:51 PM

What year is yours?

Fred 2106DS · 03-05-2022, 05:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sentry

What year is yours?

2016

Fred 2106DS · 03-05-2022, 07:29 AM

The year shouldn't matter. Your wire count, color and sizes may be a different, but the task is the same. What you want to do is re-route the wires that originally went to tongue, back to your new battery location under the bed, keeping the correct polarity.

Also, you want to extend the solar wiring from the roof to your new solar controller under the bed.

Sentry · 03-05-2022, 06:01 PM

Just opened the solar entry glad and found where they cut the 10 ga wire after four inches and rocket capped on normal rv wire. Uhg disgusting

Sentry · 03-05-2022, 06:04 PM

Solar panel off of roof. No turning back now.

Screwed up on cutting holes in floor. Entered heat duct going to basement. Didn’t realize it until second hole. Need to fix that or my power components will be heated.
I have a plan, not great one. But it’s a plan.

Sentry · 03-05-2022, 08:51 PM

Alright.. So question on the solar panels....

They are Renogy 175 Watt flex panels...

Should I tape them down?
or
Use the grommets to screw them down and use lap sealant?

I have 2" durabond tape. Maybe not name brand... I expect over time, I will have to basically replace this... Never pretty...

If I use the lap sealant, It can be removed. Although not pretty either, Im thinking better... Panels can be removed at some point for different panels...

Dunno... What are your thoughts on this?

Sentry · 03-05-2022, 08:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sentry

Just opened the solar entry glad and found where they cut the 10 ga wire after four inches and rocket capped on normal rv wire. Uhg disgusting

Turns out this blue/ white wire... Looks to be 14 ga wire per the schematics...So I am thinking, had I connected more panels to this gland without investigating further, I would have started a fire by burning up the wire...

Fred 2106DS · 03-06-2022, 06:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sentry

Alright.. So question on the solar panels....

They are Renogy 175 Watt flex panels...

Should I tape them down?
or
Use the grommets to screw them down and use lap sealant?

I have 2" durabond tape. Maybe not name brand... I expect over time, I will have to basically replace this... Never pretty...

If I use the lap sealant, It can be removed. Although not pretty either, Im thinking better... Panels can be removed at some point for different panels...

Dunno... What are your thoughts on this?

First off, I don't have experience with flex panels, but if given the option of tape or sealant, I would first try screws and sealant.

I would put down a pad on sealant where each grommet will be and then screw through the grommet and pad of sealant and add additional sealant on top of the screw heads. My thinking is, this method would allow the back of the panel to breath a little to help dissipate heat build up and moisture under the panel. Also, based on my experience with both sealant and tape, sealant should make it easier to remove the panels in the future if needed.

Fred 2106DS · 03-06-2022, 07:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sentry

Turns out this blue/ white wire... Looks to be 14 ga wire per the schematics...So I am thinking, had I connected more panels to this gland without investigating further, I would have started a fire by burning up the wire...

I know you are planning to pull new 10 AWG wire, so hopefully that goes well for you.

BobC · 03-06-2022, 08:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fred 2106DS

First off, I don't have experience with flex panels, but if given the option of tape or sealant, I would first try screws and sealant.

I would put down a pad on sealant where each grommet will be and then screw through the grommet and pad of sealant and add additional sealant on top of the screw heads. My thinking is, this method would allow the back of the panel to breath a little to help dissipate heat build up and moisture under the panel. Also, based on my experience with both sealant and tape, sealant should make it easier to remove the panels in the future if needed.

I agree with Fred. If I'm not mistaken, you have a TPO roof, therefore adhesive or tape alone won't be sufficient. Although I'd be tempted to use Eternabond tape around the edges, as you know, it's a bear to remove so I don't think it's worth it. In any case Eternabond's tensile strength is minimal so it wouldn't add much, if any security.

I would, however think about sealing the front edge to minimize the chance of wind getting underneath the panel.

TravatoJohn · 03-06-2022, 12:33 PM

Sentry, I don’t believe it has been mentioned. When you hook up solar to your controller you may want a disconnect in between. If you don’t have batteries hooked up to controller when solar activates you can burn up your controller. A disconnect would be a good idea especially if you ever wanted to turn off solar in the future. Hope this helps, Travato John

Sentry · 03-06-2022, 12:44 PM

Length of screws for the panels?

I have one inch screws. If I’m understanding Fred correctly, seal where screw would go, place panel and screw in place.
Seal around screws on top not along edges of rest of panel..

Is this the general consensus?

Allowing air flow under panels except from front/ driving direction….

Sentry · 03-06-2022, 01:58 PM

Uhg back to the hole in the heat duct... I think I forgot to take pic before the initial repair inside.Basically two really large holes on the top of the duct. One on the bottom.

This is where I taped foil bubble wrap up to the top of the duct covering the two larger holes.

Then A/C Foil duct tape to cover all openings and cuts to make this repair.

To include the foil insulation covering the bottom of the trailer.

This will be repaired later this week if my Zip Tape arrives, if not gorilla tape for short term.

Same with this opening.

I'm happy with it... I think its about what a professional would do....

Fred 2106DS · 03-06-2022, 04:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sentry

Length of screws for the panels?

I have one inch screws. If I’m understanding Fred correctly, seal where screw would go, place panel and screw in place.
Seal around screws on top not along edges of rest of panel..

Is this the general consensus?

Allowing air flow under panels except from front/ driving direction….

That's the procedure I would use. Also, recommend using stainless steel screws if you have them.

Fred 2106DS · 03-06-2022, 04:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sentry

Uhg back to the hole in the heat duct...

Your repair looks great!

BobC · 03-06-2022, 05:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fred 2106DS

That's the procedure I would use. Also, recommend using stainless steel screws if you have them.

I think the stainless steel screws are necessary, not optional. I suggest using larger rather than smaller screws (#12 or so) for greater holding power in the thin plywood. And you don't need 1" screws, 3/4" is more than adequate. Your roof is made of foam sandwiched between two thin pieces of plywood, so extending down, into the foam, doesn't add any strength and could increase the risk of encountering wires.

Alternatively, some owners use rubber "well nuts" that expand when tightened adding more strength than screw threads. Well nuts use machine screws. I've used both screws and well nuts in the past and neither has failed:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q4_QOihntPY

BarryLS · 03-06-2022, 06:15 PM

I 2nd BobC on the stainless and well nuts. A wood screw in 1/8 luan is not a good solution IMO. Way too easy to over tighten the small screws in such a thin sheet.

Fred 2106DS · 03-06-2022, 08:34 PM

I don't disagree with BobC. What he recommends will work fine.

FYI, The roof decking on our Micro Minnie is 7mm OSB covered with TPO, so I didn't have any issues using just stainless screws and sealant for mounting our panels.

You may want to check and see what your roof decking consists of. The easiest way to find out is to remove the shower skylight trim ring. Here are a couple pictures showing our OSB roof decking and TPO covering after removing our skylight trim ring.

You can tell its TPO because it is the same color top and bottom. In our case, it is white top and bottom. If it was EPDM, it would be black on the bottom.

BarryLS · 03-06-2022, 11:46 PM

"FYI, The roof decking on our Micro Minnie is 7mm OSB covered with TPO..."

Well, dang, another new* Winnebago roof construction method. Every time I think I've figured out how they made roofs over the years I find another method. 7mm is just a tad over 1/4 inch (0.275).

*new to me.

BobC · 03-07-2022, 08:19 AM

If it is the 7mm OSB, this is good news and either SS screws (#12) or well nuts will still work and you'll have more holding power than you would have in the 1/8" Luan ply of a foam sandwich.

If you can place the front edge on a cross member (rafter) with longer screws, all the better. You can use a stud finder to locate the cross members or, sometimes, they will be faintly visible after a morning dew on the roof. If you contact Winnebago, they should be able to supply drawings with measurements.