No power at Powerline panel 2004 Journey 39K

[jefflbi]

Shore power is connected and good, but there are no readings at the Powerline panel, and there were last week and the coach batteries were fully charged. Now I have no power at the panel and the coach batteries are dead. Why is the shore power not powering the coach and charging the house batteries?? I have a feeling it's got something to do with the inverter settings on the panel.

I swear if it weren't for bad luck, I wouldn't have any luck at all..............

TIA..........

[Ray,IN]

Since the transfer switch goes to the generator by default, start your generator and observe results.
Hang in there, owning and maintaining a MH is a test of stamina, for both the owner and their wallet.

[jefflbi]

Originally Posted by Ray,IN

Since the transfer switch goes to the generator by default, start your generator and observe results.
Hang in there, owning and maintaining a MH is a test of stamina, for both the owner and their wallet.

LOL!!!! You would not believe what this 67 yr has done in the past year!! So far I've been able to fix some of the issues myself. I'm currently working on 2 other electrical issues, and electrical is not my strong point...........

I get nothing when trying to start the generator. Right now I have a maintenance charger on the coach batteries. Thanks........

[Ray,IN]

Got a non-contact voltage tester? Use it to trace incoming shore power. It has to be the transfer switch, the main in the breaker panel or a faulty plug on your shore power cord.
The 12VDC to the genset should also be traced, for that a multimeter or test light is required.
Begin at the battery bank cleaning terminals and testing, end with the battery cables to the genset starter. The ground system is the forgotten half of a 12V circuit, so do it too.

[jefflbi]

Originally Posted by Ray,IN

Got a non-contact voltage tester? Use it to trace incoming shore power. It has to be the transfer switch, the main in the breaker panel or a faulty plug on your shore power cord.
The 12VDC to the genset should also be traced, for that a multimeter or test light is required.
Begin at the battery bank cleaning terminals and testing, end with the battery cables to the genset starter. The ground system is the forgotten half of a 12V circuit, so do it too.

I have green lights on my surge protector at the shore power, so I'm confident that plug and cable are good. What I need to know is where the transfer switch is? I've checked all the breakers inside the coach. I would think the transfer switch would be in the compartment where the shore power connects to the RV, but it's not. I'm going to check in the front by the generator.

[jefflbi]

Well I found my problem. Freakin burnt wires!! See attached pic......... I think I need to replace the piece that the wires connect to. It's in two separate sections and I have the wires disconnected, but I can't figure out how to get that piece off. Any suggestions?? Also any suggestions on where to get a replacement??

[wahoonc]

That is a busbar. Typically there will be a screw through a couple of the center holes to hold it down. I would see if there is a part number on the box and go from there. You may end up replacing the entire box assembly.

Aaron

[jefflbi]

I found a replacement transfer switch on Amazon for $238............ SOLD!!!

It appears I'd have to take the old one apart to replace the wire block, so I figured I might as well just replace the whole damn thing............. what's another $250....... right????

And I want to give a shout out and plug to the guy that has helped me out via the phone several times and has gotten me home twice!!! His business is RV Diagnostics. He's on Facebook, Youtube, and has a website. I paid $150 for one year of over the phone support and it has more than paid for itself the very first time I used it. He's based in DE, and has a shop where he does repair work. Chances are I'll be taking my RV to him to resolve the other electrical issues I have............

[jefflbi]

Originally Posted by wahoonc

That is a busbar. Typically there will be a screw through a couple of the center holes to hold it down. I would see if there is a part number on the box and go from there. You may end up replacing the entire box assembly.

Aaron

There were no screws in the middle holes, as that's what I thought as well. There were screws on the top and bottom from the outside that held whatever is holding the bus bar in place, but there was something with wires connected to it from the back as well........

[Ray,IN]

Before removing any wires, take pictures and perhaps even label each wire, then follow the wiring schematic that comes with the new transfer switch.
In the future, look for electrical parts at digikey.com , they are the largest electrical supplier on the internet, and every time have had the lowest price for parts I needed.
For instance, I needed 2 12v switching relays to control 120VAC compressors. Digikey sold the same part# for $10 ea. while every other store on the internet wanted from $38-$60 ea..
Just enter your part# in their search engine.


Added: This is exactly why I make re-tightening electrical connections part of my annual preventative maintenance schedule.
Thanks to our wonderfully smooth roads we are driving a rolling earthquake.

[jefflbi]

Originally Posted by Ray,IN

Before removing any wires, take pictures and perhaps even label each wire, then follow the wiring schematic that comes with the new transfer switch.
In the future, look for electrical parts at digikey.com , they are the largest electrical supplier on the internet, and every time have had the lowest price for parts I needed.
For instance, I needed 2 12v switching relays to control 120VAC compressors. Digikey sold the same part# for $10 ea. while every other store on the internet wanted from $38-$60 ea..
Just enter your part# in their search engine.


Added: This is exactly why I make re-tightening electrical connections part of my annual preventative maintenance schedule.
Thanks to our wonderfully smooth roads we are driving a rolling earthquake.

Thanks for that link, I'll bookmark it and use it going forward. Also I was wondering if the replacement Transfer Switch was going to come with instructions. The picture on Amazon only had a picture of the the box from the outside, which looks the same, but I'm sure is different on the inside........... I will probably use locktite on any of the screws.........

[Ray,IN]

Originally Posted by jefflbi

Thanks for that link, I'll bookmark it and use it going forward. Also I was wondering if the replacement Transfer Switch was going to come with instructions. The picture on Amazon only had a picture of the the box from the outside, which looks the same, but I'm sure is different on the inside........... I will probably use locktite on any of the screws.........

Locktite is not a good idea, the copper wire does have some rebound to it, however it does loosen over time from vibration and movement,, which of course requires a re-tightening of the screws, just like your main breaker panel.
This is not necessary in your stix N brix home because it's not moving and flexing.

[jerichorick]

Originally Posted by jefflbi

Well I found my problem. Freakin burnt wires!! See attached pic......... I think I need to replace the piece that the wires connect to. It's in two separate sections and I have the wires disconnected, but I can't figure out how to get that piece off. Any suggestions?? Also any suggestions on where to get a replacement??

That type of damage is repairable. The buss connector is available with a little looking around. It's cheaper to fix than replace. In the interim connect the shore cord to the leads going to the coach service panel. This will bypass the ATS. All RVers need to check the connections in the ATS when they first get their rig and then every few years there after.

I was surprised to see the black wire burned. The more common failure is the neutral.

On my rig I have installed plug and outlet pairs on the shore cord, ATS and feed to the service panel. By moving a plug I can bypass my ATS WHEN it fails.

Best of luck.
Rick

[doorguy]

jefflbi, we have an 04 Journey 39K also. A few years ago I replaced my x-fer box and it was an easy job. I was told I should get a torque screwdriver to tighten down those set screws on the wires. I haven't gotten one yet, but about once a year I'll pull the cover and check for tightness on the screws. I also had to replace my inverter a few years ago.

[Morich]

The guy on the scene always has a better chance of spotting what to do but I might throw in some ideas.
That doesn't look all that much damage (from here and pictures) so I would want to look carefully before jumping to replacing the whole as it is so mush more trouble as well as expense.
When we run into this at work, if it is not something the guys have done lots of times, we tend to work the supply and replacement in person if we can. While ordering seems easy, it is also very easy to burn up weeks of getting the wrong thing!
We try to take the part in and look at the new side by side as little thing like one being an 1/8 different can kill the whole deal. Things you are not likely to find out online!


But it can also be true that your problem is just not even that big? Is the screw frozen in the threads or it really burned that bad? Possible getting new wire stretched up to the connection and a thread chaser to rehab the threads?
You really can't tell until you get there, but you can hope!

Meanwhile just tie those damaged wires to what they need to feed and you can keep using the RV!

[jefflbi]

Just an update I installed the ATS I got from Amazon. Actually a friend of mine who used to be an electrician did the job. He said it was pretty straight forward. We had it done in less than 2 hours. I plugged the shore power in and the Powerline panel lit up!! All is good!! Now on to the next issue!!!