Installing Renogy 2000 watt inverter

[Breadman99]

Hello All,

Long time lurker, first time poster. I can say enough about helpful and insightful this site has been. Currently own a 2021 Micro Minnie 2306. It has factory 100w go power solar. I upgraded the factory battrty to 2 six volt 230ah batteries amd installed a battery monitor to keep track of power when off grid last season. Everything went great last season and making many memories with my wife and three boys.

I just purchased a Renogy 2000w Inverter and am in the planning phase of the install. I would like to mount the Inverter in the pass through and run 110 (under trailer and up through floor ) into the cabinet below the tv. Was thinking of installing outlet in cabinet and pulling power from there when off grid. I only need to run a few random appliances so have no interest in doing a "whole trailer" set up. Just need the one plug.

If your still with me, I appreciate it and apologize for the long winded post. On to my questions;

As far as wiring, run positive and negative from inverter to battery posts, run 110 from inverter underneath trailer and back up into cabinet to new outlet.
Do I need to also ground the inverter to chassis?
Can I run household 10/3 wiring outside trailer to outlet?
The wires that came with it are double strand of 4awg wires. I would like to extend them by roughly 1 foot to make it to pass through. I have enough
4awg laying around to make extension, but don't have enough to make all new lengths of wire. I'd rather not spend money on new longer wires if I already have some laying around. I'm cheap. Any issues with extending wires with proper connections?
Thank you in advance.
(More questions to follow I'm sure)

[Fred 2106DS]

Originally Posted by Breadman99

Hello All,

Long time lurker, first time poster. I can say enough about helpful and insightful this site has been. Currently own a 2021 Micro Minnie 2306. It has factory 100w go power solar. I upgraded the factory battrty to 2 six volt 230ah batteries amd installed a battery monitor to keep track of power when off grid last season. Everything went great last season and making many memories with my wife and three boys.

I just purchased a Renogy 2000w Inverter and am in the planning phase of the install. I would like to mount the Inverter in the pass through and run 110 (under trailer and up through floor ) into the cabinet below the tv. Was thinking of installing outlet in cabinet and pulling power from there when off grid. I only need to run a few random appliances so have no interest in doing a "whole trailer" set up. Just need the one plug.

If your still with me, I appreciate it and apologize for the long winded post. On to my questions;

As far as wiring, run positive and negative from inverter to battery posts, run 110 from inverter underneath trailer and back up into cabinet to new outlet.
Do I need to also ground the inverter to chassis?
Can I run household 10/3 wiring outside trailer to outlet?
The wires that came with it are double strand of 4awg wires. I would like to extend them by roughly 1 foot to make it to pass through. I have enough
4awg laying around to make extension, but don't have enough to make all new lengths of wire. I'd rather not spend money on new longer wires if I already have some laying around. I'm cheap. Any issues with extending wires with proper connections?
Thank you in advance.
(More questions to follow I'm sure)

Welcome Breadman!

FYI, I'm not an electrician, electrical engineer or an electrical expert by any means. With that in mind, below is my best shot at answering your questions.

BTW, I believe we have the same inverter.

1. Do I need to also ground the inverter to chassis? Yes, a web search will give you the pros and cons. Here's one such website.
   
   
2. Can I run household 10/3 wiring outside trailer to outlet? Not unless it is protected in conduct or run in some other protected way. It's my understanding that Romex is designed to be only used in a protected environment.
   
   
3. The wires that came with it are double strand of 4awg wires. I would like to extend them by roughly 1 foot to make it to pass through. I have enough
   4awg laying around to make extension, but don't have enough to make all new lengths of wire. I'd rather not spend money on new longer wires if I already have some laying around. I'm cheap. Any issues with extending wires with proper connections? As long as you double up on your 4 AWG extensions using proper connections, you should be good with adding a foot to the included 3 foot long wires. Based on the voltage drop calculator I typically use, and taking into account the wire diameter size for doubled 4 AWG (2 x 5.189mm), your voltage drop should still be under 1% for your 4 foot run. I calculated 0.7%.
   
   Fred

[Breadman99]

Awesome. Thank you so much for your detailed response. I appreciate and value your experienced advice. Sounds like I'm on the right track with my plan. I'll look into running conduit to protect my outside wiring. I may bother you with some more questions once I start my install.

[DavidM]

Best to run SOW cable underneath the trailer where it is exposed to road grime and water. Home Depot and Lowes sell it by the foot. Or conduit but PVC conduit can crack with road vibrations.

Most inverter manufacturer's recommend or require a separate ground from the inverter chassis to the RV's chassis. There should be a lug on the inverter to connect this ground to. Should be a larger gauge than AC power but not necessary to be as big as DC. The installation instructions should say, but I suspect at least #6 gauge.

I am not a big fan of splicing on a foot of #4. Just another potential voltage drop where heat can ultimately cause the connection to fail. Best to run continuous wires.

I suppose your inverter doesn't have an internal transfer switch, which requires you to run to a separate circuit and outlet. A transfer switch would be cleaner but also requires messing with your AC breakers unless you want to run the whole RV from the inverter.

If all you are going to run is the TV, 2,000 watts is overkill. But if you also want to also run the microwave, it is probably just right.

David

[Fred 2106DS]

Originally Posted by Breadman99

Awesome. Thank you so much for your detailed response. I appreciate and value your experienced advice. Sounds like I'm on the right track with my plan. I'll look into running conduit to protect my outside wiring. I may bother you with some more questions once I start my install.

Sure, no problem.

Here is a link, that may give you some ideas, on how I ran my AC wiring using conduit and bulkheads for my original inverter install. I've since upgraded both my inverter to the Renogy 2000W and AC wiring to THHN 10 AWG. I used THHN since I could source it locally and it is more flexible than Romex. Also, the 3 individual conductors would fit inside the conduit I had originally ran and still make the turns I needed them to make with a little planning.

[powercat_ras]

If you are going to draw heavy loads from the inverter for a small microwave, a coffee maker, or a hair dryer used on high heat setting you should consider doing 0 AWG runs of a affordable type of low voltage wire called CCA (Copper Clad Aluminum). You can get a 25' roll for under $ 50. You can get something called a Hammer Lug Crimper for under $ 20 to get a professional crimp of the lugs on the wire ends.

Also put a 200 amp ANL fuse in line with the positive feed wire. Don't try to use a cheap imported circuit breaker , they are junk.

You'll also want to make and install a 0 AWG jumper to connect the six volt batteries together if not already that size.

[Breadman99]

Originally Posted by powercat_ras

If you are going to draw heavy loads from the inverter for a small microwave, a coffee maker, or a hair dryer used on high heat setting you should consider doing 0 AWG runs of a affordable type of low voltage wire called CCA (Copper Clad Aluminum). You can get a 25' roll for under $ 50. You can get something called a Hammer Lug Crimper for under $ 20 to get a professional crimp of the lugs on the wire ends.

Also put a 200 amp ANL fuse in line with the positive feed wire. Don't try to use a cheap imported circuit breaker , they are junk.

You'll also want to make and install a 0 AWG jumper to connect the six volt batteries together if not already that size.

I was hoping to get away with using the double run of 4awg due to the fact I have the wire and fittings laying around. The factory supplied cables from Renogy are also double 4awg. I'm not completely opposed to spending the cash on larger wire, but have no other use for the 4awg I have here and hate to spend $$$$. Would there be advantage to upgrading?
Also, for the jumper between batteries, would it require the 0awg jumper? It's currently only 4awg.

[Breadman99]

Originally Posted by Fred 2106DS

Sure, no problem.

Here is a link, that may give you some ideas, on how I ran my AC wiring using conduit and bulkheads for my original inverter install. I've since upgraded both my inverter to the Renogy 2000W and AC wiring to THHN 10 AWG. I used THHN since I could source it locally and it is more flexible than Romex. Also, the 3 individual conductors would fit inside the conduit I had originally ran and still make the turns I needed them to make with a little planning.

Had a good look at your link. This was exactly what I was looking for. The 1/2" flexible conduit is a great idea. Any issues with fishing the electrical wire through? 1/2" was big enough? If so, I definitely think this is the route I'll go for my 110 run. Thank you again.

[BobC]

I'm with David on not splicing. It's simply not worth the risk and, if you're anything like the rest of us, you'll find a use for the surplus cable down the line.

[powercat_ras]

If you are set on using #4 I'd do tripple #4s to/from the inverter and between the batteries.

The main concern with running multiple wires in parallel is if the wire end connections are not perfect the current won't balance and one wire will be carrying too much current and the wire or the wire end connection could overheat and fail.

[Fred 2106DS]

Originally Posted by Breadman99

Had a good look at your link. This was exactly what I was looking for. The 1/2" flexible conduit is a great idea. Any issues with fishing the electrical wire through? 1/2" was big enough? If so, I definitely think this is the route I'll go for my 110 run. Thank you again.

3/4" conduct would have been much easier to work with once I went to 10 AWG, but I was able to get the THHN to work since it has some flexibility. I know, I couldn't have used 10 AWG Romex with the 1/2" conduit.

To even use the THHN, I needed to disassemble the conduit run and work the wires through each of the elbows and the conduit separately and then reassemble the conduit run. I also had to make sure I had enough wire pulled through at both ends to make my connections, because once the conduit run is reassembled, it is next to impossible to pull more wire through due to the elbows at each end.

From scratch, if I need do it again, I will go with 3/4" conduit if using 10 AWG THHN. I have no idea how Romex may work with 3/4" since it is stiffer than THHN.

[Breadman99]

Just wanted to post an update on my inverter install. Would like to thank everyone for their responses and ideas.
My current setup consists of a 2021 Micro Minnie with factory installed 100w go power solr panel, upgrade to 2× 6v golf cart batteries (230ah), Renogy 2000w inverter.
Future plans include adding additional solar panels/controller, more batteries and several other non battery related upgrades. (Endless list)
We mostly camp with hydro but I do have a Firman 3650 inverter generator that is used when off grid. I'm looking to start doing more off grid camping in the future but in the meantime just wanted a way to make a quick coffee and keep the kids entertained when stopping overnight without firing up the generator.
I ended up mounting the inverter in the pass through. Used factory supplied double 4ga wiring from battery into passthrough. Positive fuesd with 200amp anl fuse, then double 4ga to inverter (round trip under 8ft).
Ran 14/2 romex (inside 3/4 conduit) out of pass through under trailer to insde kitchen cabinet in entranceway. Installed inverter remote switch and dedicated inverter receptacle . This plug will be used for occasional Kuerig and toaster use.
I then ran conduit/romex back from junction box under cabinet back into trailer by tv cabinet for another dedicated receptacle. This plugged will be used for electronics when overnighting without shore power.
I passed wire through trailer floor using 1" bulkheads (which I stole from Fred 2106DS, Thank you). Makes for a nice clean hole easily sealed.
Just finished the install and I'm still in the testing phase, so far;
The kitchen plug runs the Kuerig no problem, only draws roughly 3 ah (per cup) from our 230ah batteries. Checked all wiring during and after running Kuerig and none were hot, barely noticeably even warm. I ran 3 cups un a row and batteries remained at 96%. (All measurements taken from my ali battery monitor)
I'm still in the process of running more test and haven't testing the "electronics" outlet for usage but am assuming it's negligible in comparison to "kitchen" outlet.
Any comments,tips, input on my setup are appreciated. I'm assuming my wiring size will be good for occasional use based on initial tests. Further testing should create a pretty good idea of of my battery usage in relation to the inverter.

[Fred 2106DS]

Originally Posted by Breadman99

Just wanted to post an update on my inverter install. Would like to thank everyone for their responses and ideas.
My current setup consists of a 2021 Micro Minnie with factory installed 100w go power solr panel, upgrade to 2× 6v golf cart batteries (230ah), Renogy 2000w inverter.
Future plans include adding additional solar panels/controller, more batteries and several other non battery related upgrades. (Endless list)
We mostly camp with hydro but I do have a Firman 3650 inverter generator that is used when off grid. I'm looking to start doing more off grid camping in the future but in the meantime just wanted a way to make a quick coffee and keep the kids entertained when stopping overnight without firing up the generator.
I ended up mounting the inverter in the pass through. Used factory supplied double 4ga wiring from battery into passthrough. Positive fuesd with 200amp anl fuse, then double 4ga to inverter (round trip under 8ft).
Ran 14/2 romex (inside 3/4 conduit) out of pass through under trailer to insde kitchen cabinet in entranceway. Installed inverter remote switch and dedicated inverter receptacle . This plug will be used for occasional Kuerig and toaster use.
I then ran conduit/romex back from junction box under cabinet back into trailer by tv cabinet for another dedicated receptacle. This plugged will be used for electronics when overnighting without shore power.
I passed wire through trailer floor using 1" bulkheads (which I stole from Fred 2106DS, Thank you). Makes for a nice clean hole easily sealed.
Just finished the install and I'm still in the testing phase, so far;
The kitchen plug runs the Kuerig no problem, only draws roughly 3 ah (per cup) from our 230ah batteries. Checked all wiring during and after running Kuerig and none were hot, barely noticeably even warm. I ran 3 cups un a row and batteries remained at 96%. (All measurements taken from my ali battery monitor)
I'm still in the process of running more test and haven't testing the "electronics" outlet for usage but am assuming it's negligible in comparison to "kitchen" outlet.
Any comments,tips, input on my setup are appreciated. I'm assuming my wiring size will be good for occasional use based on initial tests. Further testing should create a pretty good idea of of my battery usage in relation to the inverter.

Congratulations!

You accomplished your goal and it sounds like your added battery/inverter wiring is working for your current needs.

[MadMaxWinny]

A little late to the game, but for future reference:

Solid core Romex is the craziest thing every invented. The rest of the civilized world abandoned it long ago. The ONLY way it works in your house is because your house doesn't vibrate. Multi-strand flexible wire is what we use on cars, boats, and RVs.

Regarding extending battery cables, as several people mentioned, it's an added point of failure. However, if you use a proper distribution block (like Power Seas Power Post), proper cable lugs, and protect all connections from vibration and corrosion, it's not a terrible thing. You had to do that anyway, to add the inline fuse.

Grounding: This is where the vast majority of failures occur (especially in low voltage wiring). Never cut corners on grounding.

Cheers!

[thataway4]

I am onboard with what MadMaxWinnie noted:

ALL wire in a camper must be stranded wire. This includes circuits for 120V outlets. Wires in a camper must be stranded wire (Like this: https://amzn.to/3im3aer) because solid core wire (like the Romex used in the walls of your house) will, when subjected to the vibrations of rattling down the road, will work harden and break over time. For this reason, solid core wire like Romex is EXPLICITLY forbidden in marine applications (boats) by ABYC E-11.

Granted I am old fashioned and have been RVing and boating for over 60 years and always use stranded wire in both RV's and Boats. Is Winnebago using Romex/sold wire in the travel trailers?

[BobC]

Originally Posted by thataway4

I am onboard with what MadMaxWinnie noted:



Granted I am old fashioned and have been RVing and boating for over 60 years and always use stranded wire in both RV's and Boats. Is Winnebago using Romex/sold wire in the travel trailers?

I'd have to double check but I believe the 120V wiring in my 2002 Itasca Suncruiser is Romex. I used to be a sailboater and I remember being surprised.

[MadMaxWinny]

I use multi-stranded, tinned wire in my house, code be damned! And twist nut wire connectors? You must be kidding me. They come with every inverter for meeting "code," but I tell everyone to file them under "no."

[Fred 2106DS]

Our Micro Minnie uses Romex for all 120V wire runs (shore power to converter, A/C, and all outlets).