Electrical problems

[John Hilley]

Your problem could have been caused by a loose connection on the transfer switch.

[mel s]

Originally Posted by KoolBell

Some of you have asked to see pictures of the Surge-Guard by TRC Industries. See the attached photos.

KoolBell
Your attached photos look like pics of the inside of an inverter/charger or a automatic transfer switch.

Surge-Guards by TRC look like this: Surge Guard Hardwires and Portables | Technology Research Corporation

I'm confused.
Mel
'96 Safari

[John Hilley]

Originally Posted by mel stuplich

KoolBell
Your attached photos look like pics of the inside of an inverter/charger or a automatic transfer switch.

Surge-Guards by TRC look like this: Surge Guard Hardwires and Portables | Technology Research Corporation

I'm confused.
Mel
'96 Safari

TRC makes transfers switches with integrated surge protection, hope this clears up your confusion.

TRC SurgeGuard ATS

[mel s]

Originally Posted by John Hilley

TRC makes transfers switches with integrated surge protection, hope this clears up your confusion.
TRC SurgeGuard ATS

John
Apparently KoolBell's pics are of the inside of his TRC transfer switch with integrated surge protection..... (not of a TRC Surge-Guard as he stated).

BTW I'm often confused, (even by people who mean what they say and say what they mean).

Sorry, and thanks!

Mel

[John Hilley]

Originally Posted by mel stuplich

John
Apparently KoolBell's pics are of the inside of his TRC transfer switch with integrated surge protection..... (not of a TRC Surge-Guard as he stated).

BTW I'm often confused, (even by people who mean what they say and say what they mean).

Sorry, and thanks!

Mel

Mel,

It actually is a SurgeGuard Model 40250-RVC. You have only seen the 44xxx and 34xxx part of the RV SurgeGuard product line, but they are all SurgeGuards. They also make a 67xxx line of Marine SurgeGuard products.

[KoolBell]

Nice.
I name a part that is exactly what the Mfg calls it, and I get these responses. Take a look at the pictures.


In my original post, I stated thusly:
"Somewhere down the line we encountered a strong surge in our electrical supply that manifested itself on this trip. I had to replace the TRC/Surge Guard transfer switch."

I don't see the need to send me pictures of what you think I meant. I don't need your responses if they contain this: "BTW I'm often confused, (even by people who mean what they say and say what they mean). "

If you can't contribute to the discussion then stay the hell out of it!

[mel s]

Originally Posted by KoolBell

I name a part that is exactly what the Mfg calls it, and I get these responses.
If you can't contribute to the discussion then stay the hell out of it!

KoolBell
Sorry.....I apologize for my confusion and for my post.
Mel

[KoolBell]

Originally Posted by Yoda2405

If you still need to remove the microwave, there are four attachment points. As someone said the wood trim above my unit had to be removed and there were two bolts coming up from the Sharp Convection Microwave. Then you remove the filters on the underside of the unit and there are two LONG bolts angled up that hold the unit to the back plate that is attached to the wall behind the unit.

These bolts are about 12" - 14" long. When the bolts are all loose the front of the unit tilts down and then lift the back up from the lip on the rear bracket that is on the wall.

Safe Travels,

David

Your description was 100% spot on. I have safely removed the microwave and it is now being serviced by an authorized repair shop.

The washing machine is now back fully operational. All of the trim and doors are back in place as well. Can't tell it was ever out of closet.

[KoolBell]

Originally Posted by mel stuplich

KoolBell
Sorry.....I apologize for my confusion and for my post.
Mel

I apologize for my tone. Any and all help is truly appreciated.

[Yoda2405]

Glad you successfully removed your microwave. Hope the repair is not too expensive.

Safe Travels,
David

[dengraham]

Two things I can add. First, my identical unit failed but in all honesty I feel the reason it failed was because the wires were not tight. Second, this unit has a "surge protector" but not a high or low voltage protection system. So, if you had a mere 104 volts or 130 volts, you would slowly melt this unit.
Does this make sense?
>> Dennis

[jerichorick]

Originally Posted by dengraham

Two things I can add. First, my identical unit failed but in all honesty I feel the reason it failed was because the wires were not tight. Second, this unit has a "surge protector" but not a high or low voltage protection system. So, if you had a mere 104 volts or 130 volts, you would slowly melt this unit.
Does this make sense?
>> Dennis

YES! to all of it. But in my experience the low voltage and loose wires are the greatest equipment killers, along with heavy surges. 130 VAC is about all your stuff wants to see at max.

I hope all turns out for the best.

Rick

[dengraham]

I should add that TRC replaced the unit even though I was out of warranty. I meant to say a low of 95V or less, or a high of 132V or more. There other model has this built in: Model 40250-RVC but, of course, it costs three times the price.
My friend opens his transfer switch every year and tightens each screw 25 inch pounds because he says they loosen up bouncing down the road.

[KoolBell]

Well it seems that our sleep number bed also took a hit. I am hoping the blown fuse is the only thing I find wrong with the unit.

I am slowly getting to every appliance, electrical system, and digital device to see if anything else was harmed.

The Sleep Number website does not list the fuse for the pump/motor, so any help finding where I can get one is appreciated. None of the automotive parts stores have a fuse of that body size.

[jerichorick]

Originally Posted by KoolBell

Well it seems that our sleep number bed also took a hit. I am hoping the blown fuse is the only thing I find wrong with the unit.

I am slowly getting to every appliance, electrical system, and digital device to see if anything else was harmed.

The Sleep Number website does not list the fuse for the pump/motor, so any help finding where I can get one is appreciated. None of the automotive parts stores have a fuse of that body size.

Check with SleepNumbers. Do you know the fuse size and type? You could check Grainger. I had a similar problem on my last coach. The pump was toast. You might jumper the fuse temporally and test the pump for operation. In any case, what a mess for you to clean up.

Rick

[KoolBell]

"Check with SleepNumbers. Do you know the fuse size and type? You could check Grainger. I had a similar problem on my last coach. The pump was toast. You might jumper the fuse temporally and test the pump for operation. In any case, what a mess for you to clean up."

I was under the false assumption that my air mattress bed was a Sleep Number/Sleep Member brand. It is NOT. The company that manufactured the bed is Innomax under the brand Ideal Rest.

After searching high and low for the fuse, it seems that Radio Shack carries these exact fuses in their store inventory. It is of the same style as the electronic equipment such as stereos, instrument gauges, and so forth. A 4 pack of fuses was $3.49 plus tax.

Updates to follow....

[Yoda2405]

I have an Innomax bed in my coach and had some issues early on and they were very helpful on the phone and even sent me a new air pump for an intermittent issue I had which we were unsure if it was the air pump. Since it never returned, I guess it fixed the issue.
If the fuse replacement does not resolve your issue, give them a call. They seem to know there system well and were very helpful.

Safe Travels,
David

[jerichorick]

My "Ideal Rest" leaks down after a day or two. This is the second thread that has mentioned how much help the company is. I need to call them. This bed does not seem as comfortable or easy to control as my old SleepNumbers bed that went away with my Vectra. It is what it is so I need to make certain it is functioning correctly before I find fault with it.

[DancinCampers]

One of our members received new hose connectors from the company rep at GNR, which fixed his issue of leaking down. A call might well be worth the effort..

[garykk]

After looking at the photos of the burnt transfer/surge guard I wonder if it was not a loss of the neutral at the post? I had a similar problem at our home once. We were sitting at the breakfast table when we heard a loud bang, the lights in the kitchen lit up like flash bulbs. My built in surge protector that dumps to ground actually blew up, we lost a TV too but that did not show up for a few weeks..power company had to pay up.