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Old 09-17-2021, 08:56 PM   #1
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Fiberglass roof edge pulled away from gutter

While driving through a high wind area, about a 10 foot section of the fiberglass roof edge has pulled away from behind the gutter. We taped it down to (hopefully) get us home. The fiberglass appears intact. What is the repair procedure for this?
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Old 09-17-2021, 11:11 PM   #2
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Here you go:
https://www.winnieowners.com/forums/...ng-361537.html
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Old 09-18-2021, 07:14 AM   #3
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When I bought the coach, I ran a strip of a eternabond from the bottom of the gutter up the side of the roof. I guess I’m going to have to peel the eternabond offin order to make this repair.

I was wondering if anyone has used 3m5200 for this job. It would seeem to me the best repair would be a 3m 5200 adhesive with an overlap of Eternabond. The mistake I made was not resealing the edge before I covered it in eternabond.
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Old 09-18-2021, 08:07 AM   #4
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There has been various discussions about using 5200 and Eternabond tape. The factory and roofing pros on YouTube appear to advise against this but individual owners do try different things.

in my experience from owning a sailboat, 5200 is such a strong adhesive that I’d be leery of using it for this purpose. But to each their own on things like this.

We all question why Winnebago uses this method of roof construction and the best we can come up with is that they don’t want the roof radius solidly affixed - they are allowing for flex because it is needed. If so, owners could be causing more problems if they try to reinvent the roof / gutter joint.
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Old 09-18-2021, 12:06 PM   #5
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Here's another AZ Expert video in which he recommends Proflex over Winnebago's preferred Manus Bond 75-AM:



I agree with Creative Part regarding 5200.

There's a bunch of info on removing Eternabond tape. It looks like many start with a heat gun or hair dryer. We'll be interested in what works for you:

https://www.google.com/search?q=remo...hrome&ie=UTF-8
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Old 09-18-2021, 04:58 PM   #6
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There's a bunch of info on removing Eternabond tape. It looks like many start with a heat gun or hair dryer.
I’ve done it, and the heat gun works well, but leaves a lot of adhesive behind. You then have to clean up with spirits or lacquer thinner. I like to use “Goof Off” and a plastic scraper for that job.
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Old 09-21-2021, 04:58 PM   #7
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Well, the decision was made for me. West Marine did not have 5200 quick set, but did have 4200 quick set, so I used 4200. I did the portion of the pasenger side roof that lifted off, but my inspection revealed that the Eternabond remaining does not have a good bond. I will have to do the rest of the roof before too much longer.

The hardest part of the job was dealing with the Eternabond I installed 7 years ago. I would recommend that anybody dealing with roof issues is to go on and reseal it rather than try to glue it on it with Eternabond. It sealed fine to the roof, but did not bond to the aluminium J channel. It is easier to inspect the seal and re-seal than it is to cover up the joint with Eternabond. I used lacquer thinner instead of mineral spirits to clean the J channel. My experience is that lacquer thinner will promote better adhesion,

Once I finish the entire job, I will probably use a cosmetic strip of Eternabond to cover up all the Eternabond adhesive stain that is cosmetically unappealing. I will not attempt to go over the J channel. If I did that I would be unable to inspect the joint.
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Old 09-21-2021, 05:52 PM   #8
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I used lacquer thinner instead of mineral spirits to clean the J channel. My experience is that lacquer thinner will promote better adhesion,
I agree that the cleaning/preparation makes a big difference in adhesion of the final product. I spent many hours on mine removing every last bit using razors and solvents including lacquer thinner. After it was as clean as I could get it I ran a 2" Roloc with Scotchbrite pads up and down the length followed by more thinner and compressed air. I wasn't worried about removing paint as part of the job was re-painting the radius edges. After applying the Geocel I waited a couple of weeks before driving it, I heard some people drove right away and it separated which kind of proves the theory that it is subject to some flexing.
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Old 09-22-2021, 05:07 PM   #9
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The absolute best fix is to run a row of rivets.
My roof finally will no longer peel off and requires no inspection and repair every six months.
Absolutely the worst roof attachment in the industry.
In the past I’ve had Eternal Bond, which eventually turned ugly.
In the end I required a new roof. Now, riveted.
I will never spend another 250K for such a dumb roof attachment.
If I sound disgusted, I am.
Winnebago does a lot of things right and a few things dumb.
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Old 09-22-2021, 05:22 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by C Zimm View Post
The absolute best fix is to run a row of rivets.
My roof finally will no longer peel off and requires no inspection and repair every six months.
Absolutely the worst roof attachment in the industry.
In the past I’ve had Eternal Bond, which eventually turned ugly.
In the end I required a new roof. Now, riveted.
I will never spend another 250K for such a dumb roof attachment.
If I sound disgusted, I am.
Winnebago does a lot of things right and a few things dumb.
Would love to see pics, spacing etc. The way the Filon lays in the channel at an angle I am curious what happens to it when a rivet pulls it toward the outer wall of the channel and forces it straight. No cracks? Was a wedge used?
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Old 09-22-2021, 08:11 PM   #11
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There was hardly any sealant in mine. Given the small amount of sealant it is not surprising it failed. It was easy to scrape out with a painters tool, then I took a lacquer thinner rag over the pointy end of the painters tool and scrubbed the j channel. I filled it totally full with 4200.

Are failures of repairs using more sealant common? Mine will have had 40 hours to cure before I drive it. That should be enough.
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Old 09-22-2021, 09:10 PM   #12
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Can’t provide pics as the Vectra is in the shop and will be there for some time for a number of other issues.
Have never attempted pics before but will give it a try.
The rivets are spaced about eight inches. The work was done in Yuma, AZ and has done a number of rigs.
No cracks visible.
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Old 09-22-2021, 09:28 PM   #13
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I had exactly the same thing happen on my 2007 Itasca, 35A, W24. The wind pulled the channel away from the left side that holds the large slide topper, where the two channels join. It tore the fiberglass roof straight up for about 10". My rig was only a couple of years old so Winnebago covered the costs. We lived in the rig while the repairs were completed. It took two days during which time a fiberglass patch was used, sanded and painted. I had to stop at the same repair shop one year later as cracks were showing up in the repair. It has now been 12 years since the fiberglass repair was completed with no further issues.
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Old 09-22-2021, 10:24 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jspringator View Post
While driving through a high wind area, about a 10 foot section of the fiberglass roof edge has pulled away from behind the gutter. We taped it down to (hopefully) get us home. The fiberglass appears intact. What is the repair procedure for this?
Re calc radius. Ours came apart and cost $15,000 to replace
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Old 09-22-2021, 10:39 PM   #15
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"Mine will have had 40 hours to cure before I drive it. That should be enough."

I am not familiar with 3M 4200. Is 40 hours enough cure time? 3M 5200 requires 7 days for a full cure.
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Old 09-22-2021, 11:05 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jspringator View Post
There was hardly any sealant in mine. Given the small amount of sealant it is not surprising it failed. It was easy to scrape out with a painters tool, then I took a lacquer thinner rag over the pointy end of the painters tool and scrubbed the j channel. I filled it totally full with 4200.

Are failures of repairs using more sealant common? Mine will have had 40 hours to cure before I drive it. That should be enough.

Using a sealant its common to have repeat failures which is why its recommended to use a flexible adhesive. Rivets in the roof radius can lead to a zippered failure leaving you with a jagged roof edge and a very costly repair. The pros and cons of a flexible rubber roof and a rigid fiberglass roof system. The rigid fiberglass has to have some bypass area for stress relief.

From my time working on fiberglass boats there are places where 5200 is ill advised which is where flexibility is a required element. Using 5200 on the roof edge would likely cause stress and spider cracks to develop over time somewhat similar to riveting.

On aircraft where rivets are used to hold skins to frames after a set amount of time the frame and the skin around it has to be replaced or the craft retired. Regardless of how its fastened expansion or flex joints have to be maintained and serviced on a regular cadence.
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Old 09-22-2021, 11:46 PM   #17
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Well,
I've linked this video several times in the last few years. It is put out by the maintenance boys at Lichtsinn RV which, is about 10 seconds from the Winnebago factory in Forest City IA. If you PAY ATTENSION to the type of caulk/adhesive that these boys say is what WINNEBAGO uses, you'll see what to use. I have used what they recommend for a FULL BODY PAINTED COACH and my roof is still in place with no UGLY Eternabond lapping all over it. At 17 years old and over 100,000 miles, I figure what I used, under those boys recommendation, MUST WORK PRETTY WELL.
Scott

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Old 09-23-2021, 04:47 AM   #18
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3M 4200 fast cure, what I used, has a 24 hour full cure time.
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Old 09-23-2021, 09:22 AM   #19
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The 4200 was a very good choice, for a number of reasons. As previously mentioned, 5200 has nearly ZERO flexibility. However, it creates such a strong bond that when flexibility is required, the material it is affixed to will fail before the bond does. Also, in the event that you have a spot where your surface prep was not perfect (and organics were left behind), 5200 is very difficult to remove. 4200 has far more flexibility (7%, IIRC) and it can be removed/replaced. You will have a good cure in 40 hours, unless it is very cold ambient temperatures. Well done!
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Old 09-23-2021, 09:38 AM   #20
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The absolute best fix is to run a row of rivets.
I hope you’re correct. As I said Winnebago isn’t forthcoming about why their system is designed the way it is. But, if a rigid attachment was optimal that they would have made that simple change years ago.

Let us know how this works long term.
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