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Old 06-21-2018, 05:44 AM   #21
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I would like to install an extended-stay too and wondering about installing a "T" fitting at the inlet line to the solenoid shut-off valve at the tank. Then running a hose to somewhere convenient. Any thoughts of wisdom to this approach? TIA, Larry 2014 Reyo P
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Old 06-21-2018, 07:34 AM   #22
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I have added several pictures about this install. Click my picture on the left. Once there look for the "albums" on the right edge, Only two show up so you may have to hit more albums at the bottom of the album outline. Hit Extend-A-Stay and look at the pictures. Enjoy.
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Old 06-23-2018, 05:02 PM   #23
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In your "main tank electric shutoff valve" pic, what's the knurled brass button or knob that's part of the fitting, next to the word "fill" in the pic? Is it a manual twisty/screw valve shutoff, if the electric one fails?
Someone mentioned on here or another forum that some tunnels might not accept an electric shutoff of the propane, instead requiring that you manually (as in, crawl under the motorhome) shut it off at the tank valve.
Nice job adding the individual shutoff valves at the manifold, and coming up with the whole idea in the first place, when you determined that the factory Extend-A-Stay wasn't going to work.

There's a similar "Stay Longer" T that some have recommended might work with the propane setup in the newer View/Navion. Probably would have the same issues as the E-A-S, as they look pretty much the same.
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Old 06-23-2018, 05:08 PM   #24
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I never moved the knob on the factory valve. The electric valve worked fine in shutting off the propane flow.
I did a search and there are no manifolds out there with a 3/8" gas flair. Therefore, make one.
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Old 06-23-2018, 05:22 PM   #25
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Well, it looks good. And functional.

When I considered trying this myself, I was thinking of running a hose (T-eed off the system the way you've done it) into a passenger side storage compartment by the side entry door, and then using the extend a stay manifold on the end of it somehow, to allow connection of a BBQ and the extra propane tank, if needed. Just to get the whole thing redirected to the passenger side for convenience sake. Wouldn't be able to add individual shutoff valves to that setup, though, like yours has, unless I added one inline at the storage compartment on the hose. Otherwise, I'd have to run around or into the motorhome to shut off the propane before connecting an additional tank/BBQ, so your setup does work better on the driver's side.
Well done.
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Old 06-23-2018, 05:38 PM   #26
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I put my BBQ fitting between the steps and that fist storage compartment. It is open the air under the MH. I would be hesitant to install propane fitting in a closed compartment. I bought the kit because it had most of the fitting needed.
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Old 06-23-2018, 06:27 PM   #27
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I noticed your BBQ connector to the left of the door. I guess I was thinking that it wouldn't be as obvious if it were inside a storage compartment, and I'd be stopped when using it anyway, so it wouldn't be a big deal to drop the BBQ supply hose through the little hatch to the underside of that compartment. I think it's supposed to be an access port for the inverter to the outside of the coach. It would also act as a compartment vent, although not in bad weather. The compartment would get soaked, and the inverter might be damaged.
The kit? The Extend-A-Stay kit had the fittings? Or am I misunderstanding?
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Old 06-23-2018, 06:44 PM   #28
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Putting it in simple terms: a fire needs fuel and an ignition source. I was not going to put those two things anywhere close to each other if I could design around it. The BBQ fitting is so close to the steps that I can deal with it. Your plan may work with a few precautions.
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Old 06-23-2018, 11:16 PM   #29
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Word of warning about this...... On my Itasca.....
I was wintering in CO, and added on the adapter, didn't put much thought into it.
Just stuck the adapter between the tank and the regulator. Ended up the regulator
was now hanging out w/o any support......
A year or so later I pulled into a Walmart in WV to take a rest. Got out checked the toad then climbed back inside. Short time after I got inside it hit me that I smelled Propane while I was outside. Decided to make another safety check. I discovered my LP fittings had worked loose and I was dumping Propane out at a good rate. My recently filled LP tank was down well below 1/4. I shut off the LP, let everything air out them removed the adapter.
When you do your modifications make sure everything is braced and supported.
Don't do what I did and expect the pipe to hold the additional weight w/o the regulator being supported. Everything will eventually vibrate apart.
I lucked out, my mistake could have easily gotten me on the six o'clock news.
I was driving on I-95 while dumping LP out into the air.....
When I stopped if I had flipped on my water heater or even the refigerator things could have gone up in a flash......
Be careful what you do, and make sure everything is supported to hold up under the road vibration.
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Old 06-24-2018, 04:38 AM   #30
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Yessir - We have a 2016Winnebago and added the extend a stay 3 or 4 months ago. We were camping and it got really cold - ran out of gas - had to pack up and go fill up - aggravating. - The extend a stay is perfect. Takes about 30 minutes tops to install and mine came with a add-on for a gas grill. - you can use a 20 or 30 lb extra tank and go fill it up when needed,
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Old 06-24-2018, 07:00 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ronnie_g View Post
Word of warning about this...... On my Itasca.....
I was wintering in CO, and added on the adapter, didn't put much thought into it.
Just stuck the adapter between the tank and the regulator. Ended up the regulator
was now hanging out w/o any support......
A year or so later I pulled into a Walmart in WV to take a rest. Got out checked the toad then climbed back inside. Short time after I got inside it hit me that I smelled Propane while I was outside. Decided to make another safety check. I discovered my LP fittings had worked loose and I was dumping Propane out at a good rate. My recently filled LP tank was down well below 1/4. I shut off the LP, let everything air out them removed the adapter.
When you do your modifications make sure everything is braced and supported.
Don't do what I did and expect the pipe to hold the additional weight w/o the regulator being supported. Everything will eventually vibrate apart.
I lucked out, my mistake could have easily gotten me on the six o'clock news.
I was driving on I-95 while dumping LP out into the air.....
When I stopped if I had flipped on my water heater or even the refigerator things could have gone up in a flash......
Be careful what you do, and make sure everything is supported to hold up under the road vibration.
Good advice. Thanks for sharing your experience.
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Old 10-22-2018, 08:52 AM   #32
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I am going to do this mod to my 2019 View, as I believe the on-board propane tank is much small to do any boondocking for any length of time. Where we go we typically have access to potable water, but nothing else. And with the fridge only electric I am a bit concerned about how long I can operate in a wooded Forrest without having to run the genset to keep the batteries charged - it would be nice to have a ground solar panel, there is a spare connector up top (we have the 2 100W Zamp panels) but nothing that is on the ground. Maybe I could find out how to route a cable from the back of the charge controller to the outside.


Anyway, my question on the propane conversion is I am not sure if this setup would allow the genset (LP) to run of the auxiliary tank - some concern about flow rate. SO I was thinking what would happen if I opened the electric solenoid valve on the main tank (that is say almost empty) and then opened the valve on the 5gal external tank. Would this transfer LP from the auxiliary tank to the main tank?
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Old 10-22-2018, 09:13 AM   #33
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[QUOTE=stevepsd;3826660 it would be nice to have a ground solar panel, there is a spare connector up top (we have the 2 100W Zamp panels) but nothing that is on the ground. Maybe I could find out how to route a cable from the back of the charge controller to the outside.
[/QUOTE]


If you have the Zamp factory install you should have a connector inside your electric compartment on the back wall near the cable input.
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Old 10-22-2018, 09:16 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NYBobbo View Post
If you have the Zamp factory install you should have a connector inside your electric compartment on the back wall near the cable input.
Hummm......I'll have to go and double check. It would be great if there is.


on edit:


It's there! Sorry for the upside down pic.
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Old 10-23-2018, 10:06 AM   #35
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My question on the propane conversion is I am not sure if this setup would allow the genset (LP) to run of the auxiliary tank - maybe some concern about flow rate.



I was thinking what would happen if I opened the electric solenoid valve on the main tank (that is say almost empty) and then opened the valve on the 5gal external tank. Would this transfer LP from the auxiliary tank to the main tank?


Or is there a one-way check valve that would prevent this or.....?
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Old 10-23-2018, 09:12 PM   #36
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Adding the external tank and then opening the electric main tank valve will, at best, allow the pressure to equalize through the system. Whether your propane generator will run is unknown. We have the diesel generator, so that's not a factor for us. However, on another thread Tucsontoy did a modified installation of the "Extend A Stay" because the actual E-A-S manifold would not fit between the valve and the primary regulator, so do some measuring before you spend the money on parts that might not fit/work. He had to adapt some propane supply parts to run a line to the driver's side access, and built a DIY manifold to feed an external tank and a BBQ grill.
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Old 03-03-2019, 03:31 PM   #37
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i am having difficulty removing fittings between regulator and tank valve in order to install any" TEE". I cant figure out what the regulator is attached to that is making this so difficult. i removed front cover of plastic box regulator is in. and thats it. stuck
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Old 03-03-2019, 03:56 PM   #38
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Quote:
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i am having difficulty removing fittings between regulator and tank valve in order to install any" TEE". I cant figure out what the regulator is attached to that is making this so difficult. i removed front cover of plastic box regulator is in. and thats it. stuck
Verify the thread direction on the fittings you're working on. I know on my Sunstar, at the main propane tank some of the threads were backwards to the traditional "righty, tighty, lefty, loosey" - you may be tightening the fittings, when you're think you're loosening them.
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Old 03-04-2019, 01:37 AM   #39
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Thanks, got that disconnected. Unfornutaly what I have won't connect, so now waiting on kit in mail
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Old 03-04-2019, 07:00 AM   #40
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I believe Tucsontoy had a similar problem and decided to put a simple T between the regulator and the main valve, and then designed/built his own manifold on the driver's side where the external valve control is located. He also ran a BBQ line to the passenger side near the coach door.
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