Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 05-05-2019, 07:26 AM   #1
Winnebago Camper
 
Join Date: Apr 2019
Posts: 10
AC Power upgrades for 2018 Winnebago View?

I recently purchased a new 2018 Winnebago View RV that has:

Norcold DC 0061R all electric refrigerator

(2) NAPA 12v deep cycle 65 amp/hr. batteries

Magnum CSW1012 1000w Inverter

Prog Dynamic PD9245-C Converter

I do a lot of camping in State, County, National Parks & Forests where there is no shore power. These remote areas often have restrictions on when/if generators are to be used, beside the fact that my diesel generator is loud & smelly to my neighbors.

My previous 2010 Fleetwood Pulse (Sprinter chassis) had a refrigerator that would automatically run on LP when no shore power was available, thereby eliminating the constant draw on the house batteries. The previous owner had upgraded the AC electrical with (4) AGM 6v deep cycle batteries in series with a Xantrex Freedom 458 Inverter/Charger, which allowed me to use the inverter to brew a small pot of coffee, use the TV, toaster oven &/or the microwave sparingly, for several days before charging.

Surprisingly, the current AC power in a new 2018 Winnebago View barely powers the refrigerator overnight (with no other electrical usage) before the batteries drop below 12v. The latest 2019 Winnebago View models now come with (2) Group 31 batteries & a 2000w Magnum inverter, obviously recognizing the design flaw in my model.

Does anyone have suggestions for options to upgrade my AC power?
Hammerhead is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-05-2019, 07:59 AM   #2
Winnebago Owner
 
Kayak73's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: NW Georgia
Posts: 207
Well, there are more than a few current posts discussing this issue here. I just posted one about a 7 night dry camp experience. Your problem is the refrigerator basically. You can't realistically add enough battery anywhere to support a 2000 watt inverter although that sounds handy. I modified the battery tray in my '18V24D to hold two Trojan T-1275 batteries for 300AH power (there is a post with a photo album by another member available along with much discussion on how to do this).


So read all the info, make your choices but be prepared to trade the rig, forget boondocks or change the refrigerator after spending lots of money and time fighting the inevitable. LiON batteries are an option, more money, more work. If you stay wet cell go for the most AH you can get under the steps. I thought about LiON batteries under the sink, did not do that because my experience is the refrigerator is junk. It probably will be less expensive to replace the refrigerator (already replaced in kind under warranty) with two way, LP. That's a beast for work because of heat venting etc.


To say it again, your power issue is DC, not AC. The refrigerator runs on 12VDC. You need massive batteries, a better converter and a better refrigerator to boondock. Best wishes for success and if you find it, please post results. I can make it 4 nights but after that it gets pretty dicey. You need a Trimetric or Victron battery monitor to watch AH usage. You need to do some electrical work in measuring amperage draws of loads. I had to add a shutoff switch to get the stereo turned off and out of standby mode, lots of things add up. You will also use the water pump and probably the on demand Truma water heater some time. Like - take a shower. Water pumps use amperage too. If you need the furnace for heat - bam, another draw for that blower motor. Wouldn't it really be nice to have a LP refrigerator now - well, wouldn't it? How much generator time will your neighbors tolerate before banging on the rig or whining about diesel fumes...Running the generator to try and recharge batteries is a loosing struggle BTW, take a real charger and put some juice in em. Unless of course you take the Honda 2000 gas genny and run it all day and night - then you are good to go. A pain though, then you need to take a gas can and on it goes, all because of a stupid 12VDC refrigerator...
__________________
Bill and Brenda + Mobius Big Dog
2018V24D, '13 Tiffin BR32, Tiffin 34TGA, '11 Aspect 30, 06View23H, '00 HHiker II 5W
Kayak73 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-05-2019, 08:17 AM   #3
Winnie-Wise
 
luvlabs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Las Cruces, NM
Posts: 352
You will do way better on electrical power if you just replace the two stock 12V house batteries with a couple of 200 amp/hr 6V golf cart batteries. If it isn't sunny enough to charge your batteries, don't hesitate to run your generator. A couple of hours in the morning and a couple hours in the late afternoon, early evening and you will do just fine.
__________________
Roger & Mary
2017 Winnebago Navion 24V
2014 Tiffin Phaeton 36GH (Sold)
luvlabs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-05-2019, 08:37 AM   #4
Winnebago Owner
 
Kayak73's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: NW Georgia
Posts: 207
Luvlabs I seldom disagree with you but nope, if you are fortunate enough to have the 12VDC DE0061 refrigerator those minimal hours of generator usage will not even touch the recharge time needed using the converter to replace AH used by the refrigerator and other things in the rig. Even running the generator for 10 hours during one rainy day, day 5, of our recent boondock did not come close and that is with the 300AH of golf cart batteries. BTW, I got 300AH by going with 12VDC in parallel although I normally would have gone with 6VDC is series. In this particular rig you need all the AH you can get - that meant the T-1275 batteries, available at most golf cart shops for maximum AH that could be wedged under the steps after the Sawzall chop and mod.


In the "old days" the paradigm for two hours AM and two hours PM of generator use worked great but it was based on the two or three way LP refrigerator. This 12VDC unit runs 24x7, cycles all the time, draws about twice the rated amps and it does not seem to matter what setting the thermostat is on, it cycles continuously. I turn it down at night anyway because it sounds logical - it still cycles the same amount and the same intervals.


Referring to my other post this AM in another thread after five days the generator barely started in the AM, on day seven I had to start the engine to get the generator started. When we left that dry camp and went to a camp with power the converter charged at 14.7 for a day and half, then at 14.4 for two days, then 13.6 and finally reached full charge maintenance mode at 13.2VDC after three days plugged into 30amp shore power. That is with Trojan T-1275 batteries in parallel for 300AH power. Yes, I did dry camp for 7 nights but not with full success. Four nights OK but sketchy.


Now if you are fortunate and have good solar all day long results will be better. I think of solar like a lottery, sometime someone always wins - it just is not ME and there are mostly those who look at the ticket and just sigh. I was impressed that we had good charging from solar even in partial tree shade for several hours each day until it rained and was cloudy.
__________________
Bill and Brenda + Mobius Big Dog
2018V24D, '13 Tiffin BR32, Tiffin 34TGA, '11 Aspect 30, 06View23H, '00 HHiker II 5W
Kayak73 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-05-2019, 08:43 AM   #5
Winnebago Camper
 
Join Date: Apr 2019
Posts: 10
Well, I now know that I am not nuts to expect better DC battery performance from a new Winnebago.
I'll upgrade the batteries to the best I can find to fit in the existing cage. After my planned 2 month cross country adventure I'll see if getting rid of the Winnebago & finding a RV with the LP gas option refrigerator is the best course!
Ouch, what a financial hit that is going to be. What was Winnebago thinking, when they put in the all electric Norcold refrigerator that has not worked since purchasing. It has been back to the dealer twice for repair, currently 28 days & counting to be repaired.
Hammerhead is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-05-2019, 08:48 AM   #6
Winnebago Camper
 
Join Date: Apr 2019
Posts: 10
Solar:
Who searches for campsites in the SUN?
No charging at night or overcast days.
Yes, it's a source, but not reliable.
Hammerhead is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-05-2019, 09:08 AM   #7
Winnebago Owner
 
Kayak73's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: NW Georgia
Posts: 207
Hammerhead,
I really, really do feel your pain! I spent so much time fighting the fridge my friends thought I was nuts and probably got far too close to the edge of sanity indeed. Finally I called WGO again and expressed my discontent more strongly and insisted please that they just drop in, replace, the refrigerator. Thanks to another poster here and a great gentleman at Norcold they shipped a replacement to my service shop and it has worked as described, no lost food, no failures. It keeps food cold with minor mods and around 4-7 *F in the freezer and around 35-38 *F in the bottom. The issue is partly mine and I accept the fact I ignored reality when we purchased the rig. My brain was screaming to me the 12VDC unit would NOT work for boondocks yet we wanted to go small again and leave the ClassA DP for that reason, boondock in NF and smaller sites where the large rig would not go. My brain and reasoning did not work together which somehow happens in real life so now we are trying to decide the best option. Really it will be less expensive to go LiION with all those changes or swap the fridge than to trade rigs again. I hate trading or selling/buying RVs because you always have to go through the fix it up to work stage and I've got it all done on this rig except the refrigerator issue. Good luck with your choice!
__________________
Bill and Brenda + Mobius Big Dog
2018V24D, '13 Tiffin BR32, Tiffin 34TGA, '11 Aspect 30, 06View23H, '00 HHiker II 5W
Kayak73 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-05-2019, 09:31 AM   #8
Winnebago Owner
 
Kayak73's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: NW Georgia
Posts: 207
One other caveat about the DE0061 unit, like most RV small units it has minimal thermal recovery ability. We learned that with the replacement unit. If you put in more than two warm canned drinks in the bottom or anything unfrozen in the freezer it might take the thing 8 hours to catch up. Said another way it transfers thermal energy minimally with the very small compressor. We how have an agreement to only add two cans every four hours etc. to the bottom and only put already frozen food in the freezer. Sometimes that is tough while on the road on a long trip but something else you must be aware of. When they say "this unit is made to keep cold food cold" that is exactly what they mean; it is not made to cool down food not already cold and is very poor at that function - thermal transference. So, do not plan on putting a warm six pack in the bottom - the thing will get hot! Been there, done that.
__________________
Bill and Brenda + Mobius Big Dog
2018V24D, '13 Tiffin BR32, Tiffin 34TGA, '11 Aspect 30, 06View23H, '00 HHiker II 5W
Kayak73 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-05-2019, 01:08 PM   #9
Winnebago Camper
 
Join Date: Apr 2019
Posts: 10
Considering I purchased this RV on 3/14/19 and the Norcold refrigerator has not worked properly yet, your advice & suggestions are most welcome! Thank you!
I can't believe we are the only experienced RV'ers questioning the move to compressor refrigerators from tried & true LP backup units. I know all my camping friends can't understand it.
I feel like I have a leach tying me to the RV!
To tell the truth, I made my intended use of boondocking clear to every dealer I spoke with & not once did the limitations of these refrigerators come up. Ha, what was I thinking!!!
Still, I am puzzled as to "WHY" a company like Winnebago would make a change that actually limits the functionality of their new RV's.
Maybe, the decision makers don't boondock.
Hopefully they will correct this design flaw & offer compressor refrigerators as an option in the future.
Hammerhead is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-05-2019, 01:32 PM   #10
Winnebago Owner
 
Kayak73's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: NW Georgia
Posts: 207
Hammerhead,


There appears to be some moderately good news. I've been reading again about the lithium battery options and there is persistent advertisement about the "drop-in" replacement units, even Trojan is now marketing a drop-in lithium battery. They are all expensive, generally around $1000/100AH unit which I am about ready to bite on but I still have nagging doubts about the converter, alternator, solar charging. If you need to jump into modding all those systems it can get tedious and costly yet most are stating charging rates which well fit into our design as it exists. To be realistic $2000 is far less than a vehicle sell/trade option. The nice thing is lithium recharges far faster than AGM or wet cells. Most of the makers product sheets claim 5000 cycles life, charging at 14.4 - 14.6 for bulk which our existing OEM satisfies. It is a challenge, you have to stay on top of the discharge cycle and I've proven the T-1275 won't maintain after about 4 days which is primarily because I have no efficient way to bulk charge them enough in the daylight hours. Lithium should recharge in half the time which might, just might, do the trick.
__________________
Bill and Brenda + Mobius Big Dog
2018V24D, '13 Tiffin BR32, Tiffin 34TGA, '11 Aspect 30, 06View23H, '00 HHiker II 5W
Kayak73 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-05-2019, 02:43 PM   #11
Winnebago Camper
 
Join Date: Apr 2019
Posts: 10
I agree, the costs to upgrade are minimal compared to replacing the RV, unfortunately these are just work arounds for the fundamental issue of a refrigerator that is drawing amps 24/7 vs. one that will run on LP.
My local battery guy was suggesting the DEKA 12v AGM's as replacements with 79 amp/hr vs, the stock NAPA 65 amp/hr.
I have attempted to get advice from Winnebago Owner Relations, which have amounted to "you are welcome to upgrade your batteries".
I just wish Winnebago would own up to this deficiency & offer some technical suggestions which could be implemented by owners without fear of voiding their warranties.
Hammerhead is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-05-2019, 05:05 PM   #12
Winnebago Master
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Elk Grove, CA
Posts: 1,249
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hammerhead View Post
I can't believe we are the only experienced RV'ers questioning the move to compressor refrigerators from tried & true LP backup units. I know all my camping friends can't understand it.
Me, too. I've read several threads both on Winnieowners and IRV2 praising residential refrigerators and, as a distant second, 12V refrigerators. Some state that something like 95% of potential RV purchasers want residential refrigerators. Sure, they're generally bigger, cool better, and have fewer perks but the biggest issue I've seen touted is that, with an LPG/AC unit, your RV is going to burn down. The answer to those of us who like to camp without power, is generally "just run your generator for x hours a day". I don't want to run my generator any longer than a few minutes to run my microwave and I don't want my neighbors to run their's for hours. I know there have been fire issues and, despite the time I've spent Googling, I have yet to see any statistics on how big the risk is.

Just in case, I'm adding an automatic extinguisher and smoke alarm to my 2002 MH with it's LPG/AC Norcold refrigerator along with both internal and external cooling fans.
__________________
Bob C
2002 Itasca Suncruiser 35U
W20 Chassis
BobC is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-06-2019, 05:48 AM   #13
Winnebago Camper
 
Join Date: Apr 2019
Posts: 10
Kayak73,
Where would I find the thread describing:
"I modified the battery tray in my '18V24D to hold two Trojan T-1275 batteries for 300AH power (there is a post with a photo album by another member available along with much discussion on how to do this)."
Thanks
Hammerhead is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-06-2019, 05:59 AM   #14
Winnebago Camper
 
Join Date: Apr 2019
Posts: 10
BobC,
All I can say is, every camper I run with, cannot understand the switch to compressor refrigerators. They are sympathetic to my personal situation, but glad to know what to avoid when purchasing future rigs. We avoid running generators at all in campgrounds if it is at all possible.
I have never heard of folks worried about their rigs burning down due to a 3 way refrigerator.
Hammerhead is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
power, upgrade, winnebago


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
2018 Winnebago View Warped wall panel sahumphries Winnebago Class C Motorhomes 2 04-26-2019 08:44 PM
For Sale: 2007 Winnebago Vista 30b Solar & Many More Upgrades jimgior RV's and Tow Vehicles For Sale & Wanted 0 01-05-2019 08:14 PM
View 24v any upgrades storage Texasview Winnebago Class C Motorhomes 8 11-12-2018 10:37 AM
My 2016 Winnebago 26HE Mods, Upgrades , and Performance Videos LVRVLUVR Winnebago Class A Motorhomes 7 05-26-2016 03:38 PM
2016 View Upgrades vman4639 Winnebago Class C Motorhomes 6 12-06-2015 08:15 AM

» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by Winnebago Industries or any of its affiliates. This is an independent, unofficial site.


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 11:48 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.