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Old 04-27-2022, 07:52 PM   #21
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After looking at the diagrams Gary linked I see there is supposed to be a front antenna for the dash radio, maybe mine works without one because I live in a metro area and never tried it in a rural area. I'd be interested to know if yours has a radio antenna there. The original Jensen dash radio has automatic weather radio that you can set to interrupt whatever you are listening to in case of an emergency, I want that to be working.
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Old 04-28-2022, 06:32 AM   #22
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Heres the photo
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Old 04-28-2022, 06:53 AM   #23
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Brian, after looking at my roof this morning I determined it is exactly like the second roof picture you sent me. It must be the radio antenna. They both are missing. What I don't understand is why one of the antenna coax connections is male and the other female. Also why do you need two radio antennas? I have the original Jensen stereo, but I hadn't heard of the automatic weather feature. I will see if I have that. Thanks!
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Old 04-28-2022, 08:10 AM   #24
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Brian, after looking at my roof this morning I determined it is exactly like the second roof picture you sent me. It must be the radio antenna. They both are missing. What I don't understand is why one of the antenna coax connections is male and the other female. Also why do you need two radio antennas? I have the original Jensen stereo, but I hadn't heard of the automatic weather feature. I will see if I have that. Thanks!
Raegles
I think one radio antenna is for the dash radio and the other for the radio by the dinette, if you mean the two radio antennas. Do you have one by back the tank vents, you can barely see it in my pic, it is laying down behind the washing brush
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Old 04-28-2022, 09:58 AM   #25
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I assumed(always a mistake)that one antenna worked for both radios. Maybe there's a separate antenna for each radio. I will attach a wire to each of these locations and see if it improves my radio signal. Still not sure why one has a female end and the other a male end.
-Steve
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Old 04-28-2022, 10:00 AM   #26
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I need to do some work to my roof if it's going to be as clean as yours!
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Old 04-29-2022, 08:30 AM   #27
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I need to do some work to my roof if it's going to be as clean as yours!
It wasn't like that when I bought it! It was a lot of work, including painting the radius edges and a new TV antenna and compounding/polishing the white part.
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Old 04-29-2022, 03:25 PM   #28
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Brian, it looks excellent! At least I can see how good it's supposed to look. I've been cleaning all my roof vent screens and A/C filter today. I also tried a little silicon on my incredibly slow drivers window. That must be a common problem because I've seen posts about this.
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Old 04-29-2022, 05:10 PM   #29
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Brian, it looks excellent! At least I can see how good it's supposed to look. I've been cleaning all my roof vent screens and A/C filter today. I also tried a little silicon on my incredibly slow drivers window. That must be a common problem because I've seen posts about this.
Steve
I took my driver's door panel off and found the way they installed the drive cable it was rubbing against the window. I re-routed it and secured it with one hole straps and sheet metal screws so it doesn't rub anymore. It's still not a very fast window but it helped. I did a post about it on here. I've been over this rig with a fine toothed comb, there isn't anything I haven't taken apart or improved since I bought it. I even re-finished the dash. Made a cup holder too, you'll get tired of the one they gave you pretty quick.
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Old 04-29-2022, 05:32 PM   #30
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See this thread https://www.winnieowners.com/forums/...ia-353544.html for a wealth of info on the Via model. In that thread I posted about my window fix, my door wind noise fix, dash rattle fix and USB chargers, headlight restoration and custom cup holder. (note on the door weather stripping I did eventually have to add some glue as the tubing I put in began to work it's way out after a bit)
PS If you fix the window drive cable be sure to secure your straps with very short screws that won't hit the glass.
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Old 04-29-2022, 05:58 PM   #31
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I almost forgot the most important thing, your roof radius. The one piece fiberglass roof is secured along the edges by tucking it into a channel and applying a sealant, that's it. It doesn't last forever and you need to inspect it closely while pressing on it to see if it is coming loose which after 11 years is very likely. Many don't realize it until a chunk of it gets ripped off on the highway, then it's time for a new roof. I can't stress how important this is. I completely stripped and cleaned mine, then re-painted followed by resealing with Geocel. I had planned on re painting anyway but when I saw the roof was starting to detach I did the whole thing. See video for explanation

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Old 04-29-2022, 06:19 PM   #32
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And if you do reseal the roof radius do not order the Geocel online, go to Camping World so you can pick fresh stuff off the shelf yourself, it has a relatively short shelf life, 9 months if I recall. That's the one and only thing I've ever found Camping World to be good for, normally I avoid them like the Plague.
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Old 04-30-2022, 08:37 AM   #33
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Brian, thank you so much for all the information. I think I may take my driver door panel off and investigate as well as read the threads. I also will take a look at the roof radius. I'd rather fix it before it becomes a problem. Have you had any experience with removing the protective film on the front of the RV? I've tried a few things, but nothing is really working. Also wondering if you've had any cab clearance light issues. Three out of the five don't work. I was thinking of just replacing them with LED lights. My concern is, it looks like you have to take the headliner down to complete this job. If I had to do that, I can see never being able to get it back correctly!
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Old 04-30-2022, 02:39 PM   #34
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My front cap was repainted before I bought it so no protective film. Is it just paint protection film or is it Diamond Shield? There is a lot of info out there on Diamond Shield but I've never dealt with any personally.
I was considering new clearance lights as well just because I want to make sure the old ones don't leak. Since I store indoors and we have only driven in rain once I really don't know if they leak. I was assuming you just pop off the lens then unscrew the lights, that's how every one I've ever seen works. After splicing on the new ones just tuck the wires into the hole and bed the new ones in self leveling sealant, maybe apply some Butyl tape to the back of the light first. No way I would want to open that ceiling although I am curious to know what the insulation is like up there. For lights, including the tail lights, these folks have it all: https://vehiclelight.com/clli.html
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Old 05-01-2022, 06:20 AM   #35
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Brian, I'm not sure what film was used, but it's ON there! It comes off in tiny little pieces. I've tried a steamer, but didn't have great luck. When it gets warmer, I'll attack it again. My problem with the clearance lights is that the lens can't be unscrewed. Each screw is frozen in place. I'm guessing I'm going to have break the lenses to get them off. If they're screwed into the cab it won't be a problem. I've seen some that are thru bolted. If that's the case, I don't want to mess with the headliner. Unfortunately, I won't know if they're bolted until I break a lens and then I'm committed. My latest surprise was discovering my windshield is cracked from side to side. Fine one day siting there, broken the next! Luckily I don't have a huge deductible. That must be an expensive windshield!!!
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Old 05-01-2022, 12:13 PM   #36
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When I noticed my insurance didn't cover the glass I added it to the policy thinking if it ever broke it would be pretty expensive. It has some tiny rock chips in it now but that's all. Let me know how much that windshield costs and how hard it is to locate one which I have also wondered about.
For the film you probably want to find out what brand it is since it makes a difference in removal, some even use a solvent for removal. I am not sure if Winnebago even applies it or if it is done by the dealers, totally lost on that one.
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Old 05-01-2022, 02:45 PM   #37
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I'll be checking very soon. I will let you know how expensive a job this is! I'm wondering what condition your windows are that tilt out. Mine have spider cracks all through them and are cloudy. Any idea if Winnebago makes a replacement? I'm sure they're not cheap!
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Old 05-01-2022, 03:54 PM   #38
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Those windows were not made by Winnebago, I researched them once but I forgot the info. They come from someplace like Sweden or Denmark and they are made as one unit, inner, outer, screen and shade all in one. The outer window is plastic and yes mine are somewhat faded like a headlight gets but not too bad and not cracked, sometime I am going to re-finish them but it's not too urgent so I haven't gotten around to that yet. I'm debating on whether to use a plastic polish or just sand, buff and polish with polishing compound like I did with my headlights then adding a paint protection film.
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Old 05-22-2022, 05:53 PM   #39
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Hi Brian, I wanted to update you on my broken windshield. I first contacted my local glass company and they told me to call a business called Duncan sales who specializes in RV glass. They gave me a quote of approximately $3,000 which didn't include installation. I then contacted my insurance company and apparently they deal with Safelite. They are supposed to be calling me in the next week to tell me where I can get it replaced. Luckily it will only cost me $500. I'll let you know how this works out!
Steve
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