Replacing Motoraid Heater core on 2000 Chieftain

CtYankey · 03-08-2007, 05:29 AM

Hello Winne owners.
I have been tracking an anti-freeze leak that shows up below the water heater on my 2000 34Y Chieftain. Today, I got a video camera behind the water heater, and the heater connections are dry and tight, but there is strong evidence that the heater core for the motoraid is the culprit.

There are corrosion tracks on the right and left side of the fins, and looks like tracks going down the pedestal to the bottom of the heater compartment floor with paint taken off.

(I also have a noisy fan, which I assume would fail in near future).

I am pondering whether or not to attempt the replacement myself. It seems that the water heater should come out. I am concerned about crimping the aluminum hoses, amongst other things.
Has anyone replaced the whole core unit? Any guidelines, step by step would be really great.
I called my dealer and he quoted $235 for the part and about three hours labor.
Thanks for any insight you might have.

Art

CtYankey · 03-08-2007, 05:29 AM

Hello Winne owners.
I have been tracking an anti-freeze leak that shows up below the water heater on my 2000 34Y Chieftain. Today, I got a video camera behind the water heater, and the heater connections are dry and tight, but there is strong evidence that the heater core for the motoraid is the culprit.

There are corrosion tracks on the right and left side of the fins, and looks like tracks going down the pedestal to the bottom of the heater compartment floor with paint taken off.

(I also have a noisy fan, which I assume would fail in near future).

I am pondering whether or not to attempt the replacement myself. It seems that the water heater should come out. I am concerned about crimping the aluminum hoses, amongst other things.
Has anyone replaced the whole core unit? Any guidelines, step by step would be really great.
I called my dealer and he quoted $235 for the part and about three hours labor.
Thanks for any insight you might have.

Art

troth · 03-08-2007, 01:41 PM

Art, get your VIN# and try e-mailing or calling Winnie at:
[email protected] or phone
Bryan Funke at 800-537-1885

Also, consider calling these guys for a competitive price on the heater core:
Lichtsinn Motors

I can't help you on the "how to" for your 2000 Chieftain, but the hot water heater definitely has to come out of my '04 Brave 34D to get access to the Motoraid core...

Keep us posted on your progress, OK?

bobpie · 03-08-2007, 02:15 PM

yes, I think we all would like to follow your progress. Just in case.

CtYankey · 03-10-2007, 12:52 PM

Hello again, looks like not many that have replaced the core, but some that are curious. We got a warm day here in CT, and I had taken more videos. I was convinved the heater core was leaking so I decided to take it on.

This post is long, but it is step by step so far. Had to stop because I couldn't get the heater hoses off of the heater core.

Here's what has happened so far.

The water heater actually came out fairly easily. The hardest part for me was breaking the seal between the flanges and the enclosure. The top and right side are very close to the compartment limits, thus hard to get a tool in there. I finally bent the flange back on those sides and cut out the seal.

First I disconnected the propane and pushed the feed back through the hole grommet and all.

I was then able to get about two to three inches of movement forward.

I then disconnected the house water, as that was the connection that was preventing any more movement out. I started by working the compression fittings, but couldn't get the hoses twisted off of the nipples. Abandoned that, and disconnected both the feed and hot out at the brass fittings. Not sure how easy it will be to get them back, and will probably need new gaskets.

Then the heater came forward about a foot. I was then able to get to both moteraid clamps. Use a nut driver as it is still a bit blind back there.

I decided to not drain anti-freeze because the feed seemed pretty high at the radiator.

When the first hose came out, it dumped anti-freeze from the hoses and water heater coil into the compartment. My compartment was water tight, so it was a matter of sponging and then rinsing. Amount of anti-freeze I collected was about two quarts.

Second hose came off easily and dumped almost no anti-freeze.

At that time, I was able to disconnect the control circuit (modular plug) and move the unit out almost all the way, on to a table at the same height as the base. I was then able to twist about 45 degrees and get at the 110 volt heater feed. The junction box has two nuts that spin right out, and the wire-nutted fittings are exposed. I was surprised to see a rocker on-off switch at the box. So three wire nuts needed to come off AND one of the switch connectors to free the box from the unit.

The heater was now free.

The coil of the heater was really corroded and showed clear evidence of leaking.

I was about to quit, but notice that there were only three sheet metal screws holding the coil down. Two at tabs on the front, and one on the accessible left side. I backed them out, and the unit moved a bit, but was restricted due to the very close position to the right (front) vertical side where the hoses come through. The hoses are VERY close together. The clamps are relatively easy to get to, so I backed them off.

That is where it sits. I absolutely could not get the hoses off of the core nipples. The nipples are copper and they seem to have a slight flange. I chipped all of the foam away on the outside, trying to get the hoses to twist. Moved the unit away from the hose aperture about an inch, and the hoses, now free to move through the foam came along.

I also had to chip away the foam where the conductors come through the wall for the fan, as there is not much slack there at all.

Any ideas. I quit trying to get the hoses off after about an hour. Figured it was time to break some-thing.

It may look better tomorrow.

Art

DancinCampers · 03-11-2007, 11:15 AM

Art,

I was abe to get mine off using a pair of pliers, using enough pressure to grip the hose but not enough to crush the nipple, then twist back & forth. I agree, not easy.

Here is my thread on the fan motor repair I had to do.

Aux Fan Thread

CtYankey · 03-12-2007, 06:04 AM

Heater core is out. Thanks to the encouragement from Dan Kasey, and a bit of help from a friend. I really couldn't get the hoses off alone. I had a friend twist and push from the inside while I put out pull on the outside, and the hoses came off relatively easily. I was surprised that the nipples on the core were a full 2 1/2 inches long with a flange at the end. Installed, the nipples are actually through the grommet to the outside.

Be sure that you disconnect the fan power supply first. I found it was easier to handle if the unit was pulled forward and released from the duct, then moved to the left as much as I could to get a better grip on the hoses.

Hope this helps.

When I put it back together (haven't ordered the replacement yet), I will tie the water heater hoses together after the heater core is installed to test for leaks prior to re-installing the water heater.

Art