eatSleepWoof gets a 2022 Micro Minnie 2108FBS

[eatSleepWoof]

Hi folks,

This forum was quite helpful in my research before the purchase, so I thought I'd make a thread here to keep track of my (future) updates/modifications to the trailer. I always end up modifying/improving whatever vehicles I have, and this trailer will be no different.

I picked up this brand-new, old-stock 2022 2108FBS yesterday morning just south of Calgary, and towed it 7+ hours back home to BC. My tow vehicle is a 2014 LX570, which made easy work of this light trailer. Tow home was uneventful, light and stable to the point of being too easy. The trailer seems to be well matched for the suspension setup.

The dealer made a mistake and used photos of another trailer in this trailer's ad, so after a 7+ hour drive to the dealer's location and an overnight stay, imagine my surprise when I saw a fold-out couch instead of the dinette, and a 12v GE fridge instead of the 120v/propane Dometic that was in the photos.

The dealer threw in an Andersen WD hitch and knocked a little more off our negotiated price for the mixup, so I'll make it work as-is.



First order of business will be installing two 100ah lithium batteries. I ordered the same ones I used on my last build, and will install them in the next few weeks/month (once I decide on location & attachment methods).

I used a Renogy battery monitor on my last build, and will likely install the same unit here.

Another short-term item will be utilizing the table-leg structure on the couch to support a "baby fence" along the couch length, so that my 7 month old can sleep on the (folded) couch without risk of rolling off.

Other planned mods:
- DC/DC charger in the tow vehicle + hook up to trailer
- Inverter
- TPMS
- Possibly removing the couch altogether and building a custom dinette/bunk bed setup. I've got ideas in my head, and experience shows that's how it starts
- Likely completely rebuilding all drawers... properly.
- MaxxAir fan in place of the current central fan

We never camp in places with hookups, so the microwave will likely be removed for extra storage, and the TV will be removed, too. Might even get rid of the AC and install a skylight, but not in the near future.

Beyond that I'm sure there will be plenty of room for little improvements in storage/convenience here and there. Thankfully I don't need to bother with lifting this trailer (that's a first for me).

Looking forward to a lot of fun times in the great outdoors!

If anyone's interested, here are a my last two projects:
- 2017 Mirage 6x12 Cargo Trailer conversion
- 2019 Hymer GT Touring 550 build

Both of these were fun, but limiting in their own ways. The winnie should be a much better option!

[Eagle5]

Greetings eatSleepWoof,
I believe my M'Loot dog Grace loves your moniker! Very nice new trailer, and that cargo trailer you camperized is fantastic.
Welcome to the forum.
Eagle5

[Marine359]

Nice eatSleepWoof,
Curious what kind of converter/charger came with tour Micro Minnie, and whether it will be sufficient or can be programmed for LiFePo4.

[eatSleepWoof]

Originally Posted by Marine359

Nice eatSleepWoof,
Curious what kind of converter/charger came with tour Micro Minnie, and whether it will be sufficient or can be programmed for LiFePo4.

That's a good question, and honestly one I hadn't considered (mostly because we never use shore power). We've never (in our lives) been in a campground with hookups, and I consider them to be an affront to one's dignity. We go camping to get away from people and enjoy the wild outdoors, and campgrounds with hookups always give off the impression of a Walmart parking lot. To each their own, though. We've only recently come around to the idea of provincial campgrounds (after not having set foot in one for about 20-22 years), so who knows what the future will bring.

I'll investigate the converter when the time comes. If nothing else, I'm sure I can easily remove it from the equation and replace it with a better solution.

I suppose being able to charge through the 30amp port at home wouldn't hurt, although also not strictly necessary for our use. I was anticipating putting an Anderson connector on the tongue of the trailer for both DC/DC charging (from vehicle) and charging via my portable NOCO Genius10 charger that I typically use at home.

One of my goals with this trailer is to not spend an excessive amount of time on modifications, but rather actually use the darn thing, so I'll be keeping things simple whenever possible. I sunk over 600 hours into my last project (6x12 cargo conversion) and we used it for three or four nights total, so not exactly a solid ROI.

I will likely install the lithium batteries, change the settings on the solar controller to make it aware of lithium, and just use my portable charger to charge at home for the time being. Down the line I'll investigate what needs to be done to charge through shore power, too.

The only electrical concern I have right now is just how much electricity the GE 12v fridge will need. The sticker inside mentions 13amps at 12v, which is... utterly insane. If that compressor pulls 13amps 24/7, no amount of lithium will be enough for a reasonable camping trip. I'm really hoping that the fridge won't be running 24/7 and will instead cycle and average out to 3-4ah.

I've got Eternabond sealant tape on the way, too; will go over all roof seams when the weather allows, and ensure I don't have to get up there and re-seal anything for at least the next 6-7 (if not 10+) years.

[Marine359]

Originally Posted by eatSleepWoof

The only electrical concern I have right now is just how much electricity the GE 12v fridge will need. The sticker inside mentions 13amps at 12v, which is... utterly insane. If that compressor pulls 13amps 24/7, no amount of lithium will be enough for a reasonable camping trip. I'm really hoping that the fridge won't be running 24/7 and will instead cycle and average out to 3-4ah.

Although we had a Dometic 4101 10cuft 12v fridge, I’m pretty sure all the brands are pretty close to each other in consumption as long as there is an eco setting. We Measured our fridge only consumption several times, turning off all other loads, and it’s pretty consistent. After cool down, 600-700wh per day in normal conditions (60-80F ambients). Can use a bit more when ambients get into the 90s or if you park your rig with the fridge sidewall facing south and don’t use the awning. Of course, you can avoid using excessive fridge consumption by employing the standard 12v fridge hacks: freeze gel packs and transfer to/from freezer to fridge, keep freezer pretty full to preserve thermal mass, don’t open door often, use awning to shade sidewall.

We never felt it would be advantageous to install a dc to dc charger. 400w of solar is more than enough to keep our battery fully charged under normal circumstances. And the 4-7 amps coming from the 7-pin when driving provides enough power for the fridge such that the battery SOC does not go down while driving. IMHO, dc to dc an unnecessary expense. We did find it highly advantageous to upgrade charging system so we could charge at up to 80 amps. Like you, we rarely use shore power, but on those occasions when we are camped under canopy and our 100w portable wasn’t enough in a state/fed campground with restricted generator hours, it really helps to be able to fully charge batteries with a very short generator run time. Also used generator in winter/shoulder, snow/overcast camping with single digit ambients. Solar can’t keep up in those conditions, so generator is the only way to keep charged. Yes, we heated the battery with a 12v thermostatic mat heater.

You should have no problem keeping your fridge running with 200ah of LFP, but if you’re not driving to get charge from dc to dc, you’ll have a problem if you don’t have solar. Your 200ah of LFP will only run fridge (plus other loads) for 2 days before needing a charge. Like you, we went to pick up what we thought would be a Micro Minnie with absorption fridge. We settled for the 12v fridge to avoid the added cost of special ordering a unit with absorption fridge. Now that we have compressor fridge, we love it and would never go back to absorption. The added cost of upgrades to feed the fridge was far less than the cost of special ordering another trailer, and we feel those are “sunk” costs, as we would have done those upgrades anyway. Like you also, we used a NOCO for ac charging before we did our charger upgrade.

Happy Trails in your new Micro Minnie!

[eatSleepWoof]

Originally Posted by Marine359

Although we had a Dometic 4101 10cuft 12v fridge, I’m pretty sure all the brands are pretty close to each other in consumption as long as there is an eco setting. We Measured our fridge only consumption several times, turning off all other loads, and it’s pretty consistent. After cool down, 600-700wh per day in normal conditions (60-80F ambients).

Thanks for the feedback and the numbers. I've owned quite a few 12v fridges, but they were all "overlanding" style, that is: chest-opening, small size, and highly efficient Danfoss compressors (ARB, Dometic, etc. brands). The consumption of those fridges was way, way lower than what I'm expecting (and what you're sharing).

The reasoning behind the DC/DC charger is mainly to replace the need for a generator. I'd rather run (and idle) the tow vehicle for two hours than run a generator for those same two hours. My vehicle will be quieter than any generator out there (I've previously owned a "as quiet as it gets" 2000W Honda, and it was nowhere near acceptable noise levels IMO), doesn't need dedicated maintenance/oil changes, doesn't need jerry cans with fuel, doesn't need to be transported and secured, etc.

I've also already ran 4ga (or maybe even 2ga, can't recall) wiring through the inside of my truck, to the back (interior). It's not really doing much of anything as my original use case/need is no longer applicable, so it would be rather simple to install a DC/DC charger in that same area and feed wiring to the exterior (there are existing grommets in place that I can use), along with an Anderson plug to connect to trailer.

I suppose I should check how much current I'll be able to get out of my alternator while the truck is idling and not driving. If I get even 30a of useable current, that'll be enough to top off the trailer battery here and there. My alternator is rated for 180a, but how much of that will be available at idle is the question...

Solar is a tricky thing - I'm in Canada, and the sunshine we get is a lot weaker than what most of the US states get. Some years ago I had a portable 100W Renogy with a MPPT, Victron controller. The controller came with a phone app for live data, and in the middle of august, with the panel angled and pointing directly into the sun, middle of the day, the most I ever saw was around 83W; that's in absolutely ideal conditions. Flat panel on the roof, PWM controller, shoulder season (our favourite time to camp), solar just won't do much of anything around here.

My plan for solar is to have a look at how the original, 190W panel on the roof performs this camping season, and perhaps add another 190W/200W panel up there next year. But that's a "maybe" at best.

[eatSleepWoof]

I found a thread on DC/DC chargers and alternator output for my vehicle; sounds like folks are using 50a DC/DC chargers without issue. Should be just find to use a 30-40a charger, like I'm wanting.

[Marine359]

Makes a lot of sense. Sounds like you’ve got it “wired” so to speak.

I don’t have any experience using a tow vehicle as a generator, so I’ll be interested in hearing how that works out for you over time in terms of the effects and fuel efficiency of engine idling. I’ll presume a diesel is better suited for it.

[eatSleepWoof]

I believe I read somewhere a few years back that my truck can idle all night (12 hours) on about 1/4 tank of gas (20L), so that should be plenty for any camping trip. Assuming 40amps of output per hour, that's 480amps for a quarter tank of gas, giving me at least 6 days of camping, or much more if I have fuel to spare (a couple 20L jerry cans would do the trick). Combine that with some minimal charge from solar, and it should be a very workable setup. At least in theory!

// edit - quick google search for the same engine (5.7L V8) in the Tundra turns up that it consumes approximately 0.5 gallons (2.27L) per hour of idling. Going off the same 20L (1/4 tank) figure as above, that's 8.8 hours of idling/charging the trailer (8.8h * 40a = 352ah). A bit worse than my original estimate, but should still be doable.

[ranger1001]

Getting ready to swap my lead acid batteries to lithium in my 2022 Micro Minnie 2225RL. Actually my previous camper was a 2108. I'd to hear about your install and especially where you plan to mount the batteries, solar and battery connection and how you wire it all up. Seeking anything and everything for pointers and advice.

Richard Perry
Orrington, Maine

[Marine359]

Hi Richard,
Are you adding an inverter/charger or inverter? Or upgrading your charger? I went the route of running SP sized cable from pass-thru down and under the floor, then up back through the floor near the distribution panel. Also mounted two charge controllers in pass thru with a fuse block between them and battery. Also installed a second disconnect dedicated to inverter/charger. Found out by nearly getting stranded that the battery needed a heating mat, so, I wired that in later. You can now get LFP with self heating and Bluetooth. More expensive than using a mat, but simpler. Since you’re in Maine, you need a battery heating strategy if you plan to mount battery in pass-thru. Take a look at photos in my upgrades and mods album. You can PM me if you have questions.

[eatSleepWoof]

Originally Posted by ranger1001

Getting ready to swap my lead acid batteries to lithium in my 2022 Micro Minnie 2225RL. Actually my previous camper was a 2108. I'd to hear about your install and especially where you plan to mount the batteries, solar and battery connection and how you wire it all up. Seeking anything and everything for pointers and advice.

Richard Perry
Orrington, Maine

I'll be putting the batteries in the pass-through storage compartment. My plan is to make a plywood structure which will hold the batteries, and have the structure (and thus batteries) be easily removable for winterization purposes.

I'm a fan of using L-track just about everywhere, so I'll likely mount a few pieces of that in the pass-through, and make my plywood battery structure such that it simply bolts in to the L-track. That way I'm not dealing with removing/installing screws every year, which will inevitably loosen with re-install.

My battery storage will be setup such that I can add up to two more batteries (if needed) in the future.

I've already got the following on order:
- 2x Lisuateli 100ah lithium batteries
- Renogy battery monitor (negative shunt)
- Renogy DC to DC battery charger
- Various minor electrical components: circuit breakers, wire lugs, etc.

I've used the same batteries and battery monitor on my previous trailer and was very happy with them.

The DC to DC charger is new to me, but I anticipate it'll work well. I'll have it mounted in the same trailer pass-through. It's a 40amp unit, which will be easy work for my truck's alternator, even while idling. At 40amps per hour, my entire 200ah battery bank will be recharged with 5 hours of idling (using my truck as my "generator").

I haven't decided (yet) whether I'm going to run a switched-12v from the truck to the trailer (and thus DC-DC charger). That'll add a bit of work for me that I don't really want to do, so I may just have to jump the switched-12v input on the charger from the always-on 12v, and manually disconnect the charger when the truck is off. We'll see.

I don't know how I'll run the wiring in the trailer just yet. Our first camping trip will likely be at the very end of March, (or even in April) so I'll put off the install until sometime in March to (hopefully) catch warmer weather and longer days.

I've got a variety of leftover 2ga and 4ga wiring from previous projects that'll do the trick.

I will almost certainly disconnect the trailer's built-in converter so that it's not charging the batteries from shore power, as it's likely not able to (properly) handle lithium. Charging will happen through the DC to DC charger, and via my standalone NOCO10 battery charger at home.

[Fred 2106DS]

Here's a link to my DC/DC install on our Micro Minnie, may give you with some ideas for your install.

[eatSleepWoof]

Originally Posted by Fred 2106DS

Here's a link to my DC/DC install on our Micro Minnie, may give you with some ideas for your install.

Thanks, Fred. I actually read through your install a few days ago. Using schedule 40 conduit for running electrical is an interesting idea, especially with the waterproofing aspect it allows. I might take the same approach!

[eatSleepWoof]

Did a bit of cleanup and investigative work on the winnie today.

There was missing silicone in the kitchen backsplash area and the shower, so I took care of that. The shower was especially bad, sloppy work. What's more, at least 3 of the plastic clips holding the shower walls to the structure behind it are broken in half and need to be replaced before the shower can be used. I didn't notice this sloppiness during the original inspection, and the shoddy work is frustrating, but not unexpected.

I also got rid of the TV (we will never use it), and will likely remove the TV mount, too. That looks like a good place for some custom storage/shelving.

I then opened up the electrical panel to have a look.

The first thing I noticed is that the converter has a sticker on it that claims it'll auto-detect between lead acid and lithium batteries, which is great news for me. This means I can leave it as-is without messing with it at all.



The converter also states that it'll output 50a at 14.6v, or 55a at 13.6a. This is also stated on the official product page.



The "hidden," inner sticker shows this:



WFCO calls for 10awg-6awg wire, and Winnebago used 6awg copper. According to every wire ampacity table I can find (one, two, three), 6awg can handle 55amp just fine. This is also great news, as it means I don't need to bother with running new wiring from my batteries to the converter, and it'll be a borderline "drop in" operation.

I'm now considering placing the new batteries, DC/DC charger, and the associated electrical in the big storage cubby under the bed. It would be easy to access the two times per year I'd need to get in there, out of the way, and within the main interior/heated area. It would also keep the pass-through open for main gear without worry of having that gear contact the electrical. Seems like a win-win all around?

[Marine359]

Just a reminder about cold weather and LFP batteries. Ours is not heated, and we ran into some problems camping in ambients below 20F, and also when trying to wake up the battery for charging after a short storage period at home. If your battery has cold temperature charge protection, the bms will shut it down and not allow the battery to charge. We rescued ourselves by using a ceramic heater driven by shore a small powerstation to blow hot air on the battery, which in our case, was mounted in the pass through. Same when SP was available. Although you are going to mount under bed, consider what will happen when you leave the camper unoccupied or stored in cold weather. Permanent solution for us was wiring in a 12v thermostatic tank heating mat. We put a switch on it so we could switch it off when we didn’t want it to fire up. If you bought self-heating batteries, you’re covered, but if you didn’t I highly recommend a heating mat

[eatSleepWoof]

I'm not too worried about heating the batteries directly. One of the reasons why I want an accessible location for battery storage is so I can easily remove them (and store in home) over the winter.

Camping in cooler temps should also not be an issue as the interior will always be heated, and that's where the batteries will be. I'm envisioning potentially adding a few vent grates to the under-bed storage, so that air will circulate better down there, and maybe even leave a 3/4" air gap under the batteries themselves. Thankfully there's lots of room down there, and lots of options.

We've done plenty of winter camping in the past:





And while these trips were with a different trailer and lead-acid batteries, we're familiar with the "quirks" involved. Realistically, now that we have a very young kid (7 months right now), winter camping won't be happening in the near future.

Our favourite time to camp is the fall (mid September - November) in any case, and outdoor temps rarely come close to freezing during that time of year. I'd be much more worried about the (heated) water tank than the interior lithium batteries.

[Eagle5]

Hi eatSleepWoof,
Those pictures (especially the first one) are gorgeous! It must be so quiet when you get settled-in. Do you see any animals around your campsite with the snow like that?
Thanks, Eagle5

[eatSleepWoof]

Originally Posted by Eagle5

Hi eatSleepWoof,
Those pictures (especially the first one) are gorgeous! It must be so quiet when you get settled-in. Do you see any animals around your campsite with the snow like that?
Thanks, Eagle5

In the winter the most we normally see is birds and rodents. Saw a cow moose with a calf one time, too.

In the summer there's lots of the "usual": deer, moose, black bear, rabbits, etc. The most exotic thing we've come across was a very young, very black wolf cub with striking blue eyes, right on the side of the road. It scurried off into the bush pretty quickly.

The only animals we don't like seeing are of the two-legged variety.

On the trailer front: we're thinking of putting in a residential-size, 8" thick, 60x80 queen mattress. I saw one at a local furniture store today that I think would work nicely. Any thicker and it would interfere with the ability to reach into the "bedside storage" areas (poorly designed, in hindsight!).

I can see the need to extend the "lifting" platform (under mattress, above storage section), and am also wondering whether (at that point) it would make sense to rebuild the under-bed storage altogether... I could make it deeper (to better support the larger mattress), add in a few drawers, etc. Has anyone done anything similar?

The only real challenge is matching the finished surface finishings on the new material...

I'm also interested whether anyone has opened up, or otherwise peeked into the structure of the floor. What length of screw can I drive into the floor without risking it popping out and damaging something on the other end? I suppose I can take out one of the existing screws and measure, but a second opinion would be helpful, too.

[Fred 2106DS]

According to the brochure for our 2016 Micro Minnie, the floor is constructed of 5/8" 5-ply tongue & groove plywood. Based on the mods I've done over the years, I can confirm this is correct for our Micro Minnie.