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Old 11-02-2018, 03:59 PM   #21
Winnebago Master
 
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If you are able to find the parts, it might be worth it to consult some you tube videos on the sequence of events that must happen before you start disconnecting and/or connecting things. You'll probably get a lot of opinions offered as to what goes where, when, and "how to" opinions as well.
Perhaps another call to Zamp to ask them how to safely add a panel to their existing factory set up on the Fuse. You don't want to turn it into a nightmare install by not asking the questions.
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Old 11-02-2018, 05:21 PM   #22
Ed & Lynn
 
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AJMike, I sure wish I wasn't heading south shortly .... otherwise I'd just make you up an adapter that you are trying to figure out. Almost every solar panel comes standard now with a pair of wires terminated in MC-4 connectors. You can get 5 pair of these connectors on AMazon for about $6.00. The 2 pin SAE trailer plug comes as a set of two connected to each other with about 12" of wires. They can be had at any trailer supply, hitch shop, or any normal hardware store for less than $4.00. Simply cut off one of the 2Pin SAE plugs, and install MC-4 connectors on these ends and you have an adapter. I believe you can either crimp the MC-4 connector, or solder it to the two wires. As far as getting the polarity right....you will need a voltmeter to measure the positive lead of the solar panel ... even though it should be the red one. You will want to wire the positive lead MC-4 plug to the INSULATED pin of the 2 pin SAE plug. The other bare pin will be the negative lead from the solar panel. This should work on the Flexible panel shown earlier in this thread since it, too, had MC-4 connectors. If you made a long adapter instead, you could just plug your solar panel into the aux input in the electrical bay for portable usage and not worry about mounting your solar panel on the roof at all ....


Food for though, I hope.
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Old 11-02-2018, 06:13 PM   #23
2018.5 Fuse, model 23T
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CoastalEd View Post
AJMike, I sure wish I wasn't heading south shortly .... otherwise I'd just make you up an adapter that you are trying to figure out. Almost every solar panel comes standard now with a pair of wires terminated in MC-4 connectors. You can get 5 pair of these connectors on AMazon for about $6.00. The 2 pin SAE trailer plug comes as a set of two connected to each other with about 12" of wires. They can be had at any trailer supply, hitch shop, or any normal hardware store for less than $4.00. Simply cut off one of the 2Pin SAE plugs, and install MC-4 connectors on these ends and you have an adapter. I believe you can either crimp the MC-4 connector, or solder it to the two wires. As far as getting the polarity right....you will need a voltmeter to measure the positive lead of the solar panel ... even though it should be the red one. You will want to wire the positive lead MC-4 plug to the INSULATED pin of the 2 pin SAE plug. The other bare pin will be the negative lead from the solar panel. This should work on the Flexible panel shown earlier in this thread since it, too, had MC-4 connectors. If you made a long adapter instead, you could just plug your solar panel into the aux input in the electrical bay for portable usage and not worry about mounting your solar panel on the roof at all ....
So if I understand correctly the idea is to take the existing MC-4 connector, cut it in two, take the SAE connector and cut it in two as well and then connect the wires in the correct configuration. Presumably figuring that out should be easy with a voltmeter and the only problem is connecting the wires in such a way that there is no noticeable resistance. Is that right?

I am not sure that I have ever made a solder connection that was not a cold connection so that would be a challenge. Any reason I could not just twist the wires together, attach a wire nut and tape the whole thing up?
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Old 11-02-2018, 07:55 PM   #24
Ed & Lynn
 
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Originally Posted by AJMike View Post
So if I understand correctly the idea is to take the existing MC-4 connector, cut it in two, take the SAE connector and cut it in two as well and then connect the wires in the correct configuration. Presumably figuring that out should be easy with a voltmeter and the only problem is connecting the wires in such a way that there is no noticeable resistance. Is that right?

I am not sure that I have ever made a solder connection that was not a cold connection so that would be a challenge. Any reason I could not just twist the wires together, attach a wire nut and tape the whole thing up?

No, you do not "take the existing MC4 connector and cut it in two. The Solar panel should come with two output wires, termininating in MC-4 connectors. Leave them alone. You will BUY a couple more MC-4 connectors and install them on the wires coming from the new 2 pin SAE trailer hitch plug. This would be the adapter cable....the MC-4 end plugs into the MC-4 connectors on your solar panel...the 2 pin SAE trailer hitch plug will plug into the roof jack or the aux jack in the electric bay. Frankly, if you have no skills at this perhaps you should buy the parts and have a local person who can make a decent solder job do it....
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Old 11-02-2018, 08:08 PM   #25
Ed & Lynn
 
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Actually, I don’t know why I did not Google for this to begin with. Here is what Mike would need: https://www.amazon.com/Chafon-Adapte...8WFNMCJ6SRFT8Y. Unfortunately it looks like the polarities are not proper....you would have to cut the wires and switch them with a splice...
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Old 11-03-2018, 07:22 AM   #26
2018.5 Fuse, model 23T
 
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Originally Posted by CoastalEd View Post
Actually, I don’t know why I did not Google for this to begin with. Here is what Mike would need: https://www.amazon.com/Chafon-Adapte...8WFNMCJ6SRFT8Y. Unfortunately it looks like the polarities are not proper....you would have to cut the wires and switch them with a splice...
OK. Now it makes some sense to me.

As for switching the polarity, I saw on one of the YouTube videos about solar panels that you can buy an SAE to SAE connector that switches the polarity, so perhaps that is the easiest thing to do for someone like me who is ham-handed when it comes to doing stuff like this. Something about The Spirit is Willing but the Skill Set is Weak.

How about this: https://www.amazon.com/Tecmate-OptiM.../dp/B00AHCWGOO

or this: https://www.amazon.com/Sunway-Solar-.../dp/B07GPGPTFV

Both are limited to 5 amps.
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Old 11-03-2018, 10:37 AM   #27
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Yes, it looks like either one would do.
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Old 11-07-2018, 10:24 AM   #28
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I have the Fuse 23A 2017 and no complaints! I have had as high as 21MPG and yes MPH certainly affects that as wind and hills/grades. I usually get around 19 but as low as 11 with a strong headwind uphill on the W TX and E NM plains. I love that my fridge is 3way. Don't understand why they would change that. Mine freezes ice in the freezer overnight so if I remember to turn it on 1/2 day before leaving I'm good to go. My driver side compartment, under the dining area slide, also lacks the holderupper and I've been thinking about adding one but so far I've just lived with it and put non essentials in there. It's hard to get to anyway when the slide is out so nothing I use often is even in there. I have 15,000 miles under my seat and also tow a CanAm Spyder on a Stinger trailer on most trips which does bring the MPG down to about 16.3 vs 19.
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Old 11-10-2018, 08:54 AM   #29
2018.5 Fuse, model 23T
 
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I have the Fuse 23A 2017 and no complaints! I have had as high as 21MPG and yes MPH certainly affects that as wind and hills/grades. I usually get around 19 but as low as 11 with a strong headwind uphill on the W TX and E NM plains.
What speeds are you traveling at?

Our RV is still too new for the engine to be completely broken in (only about 2800 miles) and we have not gotten any better than about 18 mpg, and only got that when I kept our speed at about 60 mph. On those trips when I went faster our mileage dropped to about 16 although, again, it may be that the diesel is still so new.

The mileage I mention is calculated, not what is displayed on the dash. I have found that the displayed mileage has always been a bit higher than the actual calculated mileage.
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Old 11-10-2018, 10:09 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by AJMike View Post
What speeds are you traveling at?

Our RV is still too new for the engine to be completely broken in (only about 2800 miles) and we have not gotten any better than about 18 mpg, and only got that when I kept our speed at about 60 mph. On those trips when I went faster our mileage dropped to about 16 although, again, it may be that the diesel is still so new.

The mileage I mention is calculated, not what is displayed on the dash. I have found that the displayed mileage has always been a bit higher than the actual calculated mileage.
You'll see all kinds of mpg claims for the same engine/weight/speed/road conditions/wind speed/etc. combinations. MPG is really dependent on too many factors to be measurable in absolutes. If you can get 18 mpg average at 60 mph, I'd say you're doing good. Our Navion averages around 15.5 mpg in all conditions. I leave the fuel economy L/KM display alone over several days, so it gives us the average for all driving conditions, so we're pretty pleased with that.
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