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Old 09-22-2018, 07:29 AM   #1
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electric outlets dead after trip to Marfa, TX

I was traveling around in Marfa and Big Bend, TX and staying at campgrounds with hookups, 2017 Fuse. Traveling back towards home my rear view camera monitor went black. I've determined thus far that I have no power, even when plugged back in here at home, to the 110V outlets it plugs into behind the front TV but can't determine why. I have found only one GFCI plug which is mounted along the side of the sink. It appears to be dead...unable to get a light when I push test or reset. Other plug outlets are dead too. Is there a switch somewhere that I'm not finding or forgetting about? LED lights, other lights and fridge and micro all have power whether plugged into 30A or not.

May or may not be related but my door step is extending and retracting each time I open the screen door. I have tried using the switch for door step to set it to stay extended (open) once the door is opened and retract only when the engine is started. This use to work that way until the same time as I've discovered the outlets aren't working.

I've checked fuses and breakers and that's as far as I've gone. Thinking maybe the Marfa Lights messed with my electrical array! Any other ideas?

Thanks in advance!
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Old 09-22-2018, 08:22 AM   #2
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Originally Posted by highfeather View Post
I was traveling around in Marfa and Big Bend, TX and staying at campgrounds with hookups, 2017 Fuse. Traveling back towards home my rear view camera monitor went black. I've determined thus far that I have no power, even when plugged back in here at home, to the 110V outlets it plugs into behind the front TV but can't determine why. I have found only one GFCI plug which is mounted along the side of the sink. It appears to be dead...unable to get a light when I push test or reset. Other plug outlets are dead too. Is there a switch somewhere that I'm not finding or forgetting about? LED lights, other lights and fridge and micro all have power whether plugged into 30A or not.

May or may not be related but my door step is extending and retracting each time I open the screen door. I have tried using the switch for door step to set it to stay extended (open) once the door is opened and retract only when the engine is started. This use to work that way until the same time as I've discovered the outlets aren't working.


I've checked fuses and breakers and that's as far as I've gone. Thinking maybe the Marfa Lights messed with my electrical array! Any other ideas?

Thanks in advance!
If I am reading this correctly, you have one half of your coach 120V dead. Have you looked at the service panel breakers? I suggest that you turn them all off and then back on. See if that helps.
Another problem we all suffer with, from time to time, is loose connections in the ATS. Do not try tightening any connections in the 110V circuit unless the rig is unplugged.
And don't forget to make certain the "Salesman switch" was not shut off in error.
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Old 09-22-2018, 10:14 AM   #3
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Thanks Rick & Melissa & Dawson,
I flipped all the breakers; no luck. I checked all of the outlets and they are all dead. GFCI does not reset or light up in test mode.
So!
You refer to the ATS; what is that?
What is the "salesman switch"?
I'm willing to try a few more suggestions before I grit my teeth and call Winnebago (have found them not knowledgeable!)
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Old 09-22-2018, 12:04 PM   #4
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After a bit more noodling around I found the ATS but chose not to fool with it. AND I went back to the GFCI and found if I pressed really really hard on the reset button I got a green light to appear as it should. Voila! I have power to the outlets, the rear view camera monitor is working again and I'm a happy camper! (Also found the correct setting for the step to make it stay out when the door is opened and close only when the engine is started.)
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Old 09-22-2018, 12:07 PM   #5
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You stopped in Marfa? What can I say - Aliens have struck again.

Your Fuse is probably wired more like the View/Navion motorhomes. You do not have an ATS (automatic transfer switch). You should have at least 2 GFCI outlets - one in the kitchen and one in the bathroom. You cannot reset these unless there is electricity present so you need to be plugged in. GFCI outlets do break so (if you feel comfortable doing this) check for voltage coming to the outlet. If power is coming in and nothing is going out, the GFCI outlet needs to be replaced.

The steps problem is 12V related and has nothing to do with your 120V problems. It may be as simple as the magnetic switch needs to be adjusted.
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Old 09-23-2018, 09:58 AM   #6
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You stopped in Marfa? What can I say - Aliens have struck again.

Your Fuse is probably wired more like the View/Navion motorhomes. You do not have an ATS (automatic transfer switch). You should have at least 2 GFCI outlets - one in the kitchen and one in the bathroom. You cannot reset these unless there is electricity present so you need to be plugged in. GFCI outlets do break so (if you feel comfortable doing this) check for voltage coming to the outlet. If power is coming in and nothing is going out, the GFCI outlet needs to be replaced.

The steps problem is 12V related and has nothing to do with your 120V problems. It may be as simple as the magnetic switch needs to be adjusted.
https://www.winnebagoind.com/diagram/2016/191238.pdf Looks like one to me.
I don't know there model or SN so that could make a difference.
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Old 09-23-2018, 10:00 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by highfeather View Post
After a bit more noodling around I found the ATS but chose not to fool with it. AND I went back to the GFCI and found if I pressed really really hard on the reset button I got a green light to appear as it should. Voila! I have power to the outlets, the rear view camera monitor is working again and I'm a happy camper! (Also found the correct setting for the step to make it stay out when the door is opened and close only when the engine is started.)
No you can be happy that you are back to being Happy Campers!
Happy trails,
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Old 10-01-2018, 06:57 PM   #8
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It looks like most of your problems are related directly to that GFCI which is either defective or may simply have a bad connection on the back. I'd bet the farm that the other inoperative outlets are on the same circuit and downstream from the GFCI. As you discovered, if it doesn't work, those outlets won't work either.
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