Does My Norcold Fridge Run on LP?

[Rodger]

I also have a Norcold refrigerator, model # NA8LXIMFFR, and am trying to figure out if it has to have propane to operate or can it operate on 110 volts. Looking at the manuals is kind of confusing as there is not one for this particular model. The only manuals I can find are for N7's or N8's. I can get a 12 volt refrigerator that I think will fit since the person that has it had it in a trailer. The measurements of his fridge seems like it will just go right back into the space where my Norcold is. Would this be a good idea to replace my Norcold with the 12 Volt?

[Eagle5]

For me personally, I love my propane/120VAC absorption fridge. For a motorhome in moderate climates and not-too-high altitude, they work well.

[Rodger]

The one reason why I am thinking about 12 volts is because the summers here in GA and the places I want visit are HOT. When it's 99 degrees and 100% humidity I would like to have something that will work and from what I have heard about 120/propane they don't work well in heat/humidity.

[be happy]

I believe that most if not all Norcold RV refrigerators are both propane and 120v operational.

Question, what do you want to end up with as for frig. operations. Propane, elec, 12v. ?

When the Norcold in my 07 Meridian died a rather sudden death I had to decided what to do for replacement. After looking at replacing with house frig. new RV frig. or just replacing the cooling unit.

I went with replacing the cooling unit. To put a house frig in would require expert carpentry knowledge which I do not have. A new RV frig to get it in would have required removal of the windshield, that put a stop to that idea.

End result was I went with replacing the cooling unit. I replace the old with a total 120 cooling unit. The reason behind that was I never boondock, unit always plugged in. I saw not reason to have all cooling options.

I went with the cooling unit from JC Refrigeration. This way I could keep the frig I have, and provide the cooling that works for me. It was a very easy DIY project with get customer service from JC.

Again not sure what your issue is but this may be an answer worth checking out.
https://jc-refrigeration.com/

Good Luck

[be happy]

To answer you heat question. My 4 door unit with the totally 120 cooling unit. Temp set to 5 will keep frig at 36+/- and freezer 20+/- Ice cream stays frozen.
Living in Missouri I get the humidiy you do.

[Rodger]

I would just like to have one that runs on 12V only. It's just something about the flame from the propane that gives me the heebi jeebis.

[BobC]

The big question in my mind is do you intend to camp often without shore power. A 12V refrigerator will put a pretty large load on your house battery bank if you don't have shore power and will limit how long you can camp.

With the option of LPG, you won't use any significant battery power. I have a Norcold LPG/120V on my 2002 and haven't ever had a problem.

I've found that, when running it overnight before a trip it gets colder faster on LPG than on 120V. After it's at its operating temperature, it works fine on either.

[Ray,IN]

That Norcold model# is not recognized by any website; are you positive on model#?



Contact https://myrvworks.com/manuals/ from page bottom and ask about a service manual for your model Norcold.

[kvmllr]

That depends on the fridge. If it's a dual-fuel unit, then it runs on propane plus 12v or 110. If it's turned to AC, then it's running on 110v and propane is not needed.

[Rodger]

Ray.IN, That is the number on the label inside the refrigerator.

[Ray,IN]

Strange number, and nowhere to be found on the web, nor Norcold website. I was suspect it was the serial#.
Remove the outside lower vent cover and tell us what you see. There should be a 120V cord with the electric heaters above 6" the heating chamber, and a gas valve, if it also runs on 12V there should be a larger DC wire running to the heat chamber.
Your number does not appear on the Norcold Refrigeration Products reference page: https://thetford.com/us/all-products/

[Rodger]

Could be. Didn't have my glasses on.

[BobC]

Your model refrigerator varies by the date your MH was manufactured. The Winnebago part numbers can be found here:

https://catalog3d.winnebagoind.com/menu/Parts.htm

This lists the following part numbers based on year manufactured:

120075-07-01A < 8/26/1999
121569-03-01A 8/27/1999 - 1/02/2000
121569-05-01A 1/30/2000 +
120075-09-01A < 1/02/00
120075-13-01A 1/03/00+

Using the site below, I cross referenced the above to Norcold models:

https://techsupport.pdxrvwholesale.c...-refrigerator/

If I did this correctly, the corresponding Norcold models are (you should see one of these Nxx numbers on your refrigerator:

N821, N822, N841, N842

Once you ID your model, you can get user and service manuals here (you have to page down quite a bit to get to the N models:

https://techsupport.pdxrvwholesale.c...-refrigerator/

I hope this helps.

[Rodger]

BobC. Found it. guess I have the N841-IM. I did not see any number in the fridge that looked like that. Thanks for the info. It appears that if I have 120 volts it will run off electric and if I don't it will run on propane. I don't think I will do much boondocking unless I go to a family reunion and have to stay there.

[BobC]

I don't see any reason to change it unless it doesn't work.

[Rodger]

BobC. It was just a thought.

[BobC]

I should have mentioned. You should bookmark Winnebagos Owners Resources page. It gives us resources that most MH owners don't have:

https://www.winnebago.com/owners/owner-resources

[Jim_HiTek]

If you have a mode switch on the eyebrow control, cycling that will show you what you have. Auto: AU, 120 Vac heater: AC, and propane: LP.

For those with cooling issues, note that an internal fan is the best way to circulate the cold air and make the refer quite a bit more efficient. I only have to defrost my freezer about once every 18 months with mine, haven't had to defrost the refer plates since install: Refer Fan Installation...