Some bits and pieces of ideas to let you do a more complete job of looking it over when times comes right! Maybe bare with me if I tell you things you already know but I like to avoid blowing by some of the tiny points as they can be really important and really confusing.
When plugged into power, there is a transfer switch as first stop. It chooses whether to tie to the cord or the wires coming from the generator and should switch automatically which to connect to the wires going to the !C breakers at the load center.
I might jump to looking for that part working right as a first and easy step.
Does you microwave have lights on the front to show it is getting that power? If no light that is easy to spot, try plugging something like a lamp into an outlet?
If you get power to either microwave or an outlet, no worry about the 110AC or transfer switch because they have to be right to get power that far!
Then there is a converter, fed by that 110 AC and it "makes" 12VDC to run the inside lights and store excess in the coach batteries.
Easy check is to turn on some inside light, fan or water pump as they all have to run on 12VDC. If they come on, no worry about the battery disconnect switch as it has to be closed!
If those inside things DON"T work, a check of why the converter power is not getting to them is needed!
This drawing shows some points to check. Click this to get better view!
If microwave or outlets are working, we assume power from the cord is getting to the main breaker and it is passing on to the smaller breakers! So we "think" the converter is getting the 110AC power is needs to make the 12VDC? But make sure this breaker it shares with frig is on!
OR maybe you hear it humming and that tells you it is working? Maybe hear a fan on hot days?
This breaker sends power TO the converter and it then sends 12VDC back to the fuses on the 12Volt side.
Guessing here as I don't have an RV here to check but I "think" the lug I marked in orange is direct connection to coach battery and you should see the battery voltage here when you turn the converter breaker off!
A good battery is likely to be more than 12 volts if it has not been charged for a couple hours and it is holding a charge.
Then when you turn the converter breaker on, that lug to the batteries should jump up to between 12-14 as the charge voltage from the converter shows
up!
That part should get power to the coach batteries if all is right. But there are lots of times when dirty battery cables keep it all from working, so do a check of them, both positive as well as the negative that goes down to a ground on the frame! It is easy to miss looking at the ground if it is down behind the batteries and out of sight!
If you get good power at the coach batteries, then try starting the RV engine.
If it won't crank or is real slow, try holding the boost start switch while cranking as that should connect the coach and chassis batteries together.
If the engine won't crank when alone but does crank when connected to a good coach battery, suspect bad or rundown chassis battery?
Normally the chassis battery is charged by the RV engine alternator, BUT you have to get it started FIRST! The dash switch is just a quick way to get a "jump start" without getting out jumper cables!
Of course it only works if you have power in the coach batteries first. Kind of a chain of failures if the first part is not right!
See if that makes sense when next getting out to it?
We can get into how they get connected and work through it but I suspect it is more likely just this part letting you down.
Good battery power is what makes so much of the RV work but they are also the most common thing to give us trouble!
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