windshield leaking on 2008 Journey

[Ducati]

I have a 2008 Journey, the windshield is leaking on the drivers side. so far I have resealed the roof including around all the vents, satellite, etc. on the forward cap both sides I have resealed that also, and last but not least I've taken the "T" strip out of the top of the windshield and sealed that entire section all the way across. Its still leaking very frustrating. I'm gonna try sealing around the running lights next although I do not think that is the problem, does anyone out there have anyother ideas were this could be coming from?

[Jim_HiTek]

My 2 persistent leaks got really bad while driving into the rain at freeway speeds. I'd already done most of what you mentioned EXCEPT seal around the running lights over the window. Once I did that, nearly surrounding the light fixtures with Silicone, left an open spot for drainage...the leaks were totally gone.

Prior to Silicone the water would sneak in around the lights and run down behind the front cap, then drip on the dash. Sealing the running lights is what stopped it. So what I thought was coming from the window was actually from the running lights.

[creativepart]

Hey Jim... by "running lights' you mean the "Clearance Lights," correct?

[Jim_HiTek]

Originally Posted by creativepart

Hey Jim... by "running lights' you mean the "Clearance Lights," correct?

Yep. The smaller lights over the front windows.

Over here growing up in eastern Washington, they were always called running lights by my peers. Front and rear lights that can be seen by drivers in front and in the rear of your vehicle so they can see you as you're running up/down the highway.

Those that were on the sides of the vehicle are called clearance lights. Because when a vehicle pulls up along side your vehicle, those lights tell them how much clearance they have.

That's what I learned anyway.

[BobC]

Sealing the window frame under the rubber molding is difficult to do properly. The molding itself isn't a seal and the windshield originally depended on it's adhesive for sealing but all you can reach is the edge.

The thing that worked for me was to put a strip of tape over the top of the rubber molding, sealing it to the fiberglass. All weather Gorilla Tape is a good choice. I believe it's available in white and clear in addition to black. Some have used wide, all-weather electrical tape. After determining this fixed the problem I replaced the temporary tape with Eternabond. This stopped my leak. Eternabond works great but is a pain to remove so I wish I'd used the all weather Gorilla Tape. I've had a piece on my van for several years now and it's still like new. Plus it's easier to remove than Eternabond.

Unfortunately, the damage was already done and, when I had one side of my windshield replaced, the installers noted that both sides were coming loose from the frame due to rust. You could easily push it in and out. Before I bought it, mine had had the major window frame rust repair, but it hadn't been properly rust-proofed and sealed, hence the adhesive failure.

The source of my leak was the bad seal. If the tape works, you're golden, you've found the source. Just make sure your windshield isn't loose. Mine was so bad, the installers were able to remove and replace the good side without breaking it. If so, you're going to have to have your windshield(s) reseated after the frame is cleaned and rust-proofed. I was told that one good bump could have caused mine to fall out.

Don't be tempted to tape all the way around. You want to give a pathway for drainage.

[creativepart]

Originally Posted by Jim_HiTek

That's what I learned anyway.

Hummm? Maybe different in different industries, such as trucking???

In RVs Clearance Lights are the top row of red/yellow lights front and rear at the top of the rv. And lights on the side are Side Marker Lights.

At least that’s what they are called in RV parts catalogs.

[erstanfo]

2012 Journey, 36M. My leak was from the front cap to metal frame seal above the windshield. I tried removing old and injecting polyurethane adhesive, sealant into the crack but it started leaking in a year. There is only 1" gap between the windshield and the cap normally covered by the T molding. Finally fixed the leak with 2" gorilla tape across the rubber T molding to the front cap. That has healed up for 4 years now with no leaks.

[lpavao]

I had this issue as well. It may be due to corrosion behind the glass due to poor sealant application at assembly. The steel window frame gets severely corroded and water will pass around the glass edge and through the urethane. It’s difficult to repair. The glass shops will suggest glass removal and repair of the steel channel. You may be able to remove the existing sealant and fix the corrosion yourself and reapply urethane and your rubber molding but it’s no guarantee. This was/is a huge issue with older Winnie Class A’s. Many dissatisfied owners. Good luck

[Ray,IN]

I once had a clearance light leaking water into our 5er. The base was sealed to the front cap, the lens had slowly over time accumulated dust inside. Water leaked into the lens where the dust had sealed the bottom side of the lens so water could not leak back out.
When water accumulated in the lens until it reached the wiring hole, The water then leaked into the front cap, ran down the wiring into the wall of the trailer, where it rotted out under a bedroom window.
I repaired all the water damage, then drilled a 1/8" hole in the bottom of every clearance lens. Never had a water intrusion again.

[Wayne M]

Our previous 2008 Destination 39W, a sister to you Journey had a windshield leak. Fortunately it was still under warranty. They had to remove the windshield and remove the overhead cabinets and completely rebuild the rusted area. It is a known problem for that year.

After the repair it never leaked again. I'm sure glad I did not have to pay for it.

[BobC]

Originally Posted by Wayne M

Our previous 2008 Destination 39W, a sister to you Journey had a windshield leak. Fortunately it was still under warranty. They had to remove the windshield and remove the overhead cabinets and completely rebuild the rusted area. It is a known problem for that year.

After the repair it never leaked again. I'm sure glad I did not have to pay for it.

It's a known problem for many, many years. For all I know, it may still be. There are a number of Youtube videos on the frame rebuild process:

https://www.google.com/search?q=winn...ih=632&dpr=2.2

If the damage isn't too wide spread, the tape fix that I and erstanfo mentioned is easy and will arrest the problem. Try it even though you already tried sealant.

[Wayne M]

Originally Posted by BobC

It's a known problem for many, many years. For all I know, it may still be. There are a number of Youtube videos on the frame rebuild process:

https://www.google.com/search?q=winn...ih=632&dpr=2.2

If the damage isn't too wide spread, the tape fix that I and erstanfo mentioned is easy and will arrest the problem. Try it even though you already tried sealant.

I don't have the 2008 anymore. Now I have a 2015 and it has been fine.
Thanks.