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Old 05-05-2005, 04:18 PM   #1
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#2 compressor does not run when thermotat set at 8 to 10 degress lower then room temp one working o.k ems indicating light shws power to 2.
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Old 05-05-2005, 04:18 PM   #2
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#2 compressor does not run when thermotat set at 8 to 10 degress lower then room temp one working o.k ems indicating light shws power to 2.
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Old 05-05-2005, 05:10 PM   #3
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Hi Dennis and welcome to the forum. I crosslinked your post to the Winnebago forum as the owners there with similiar units will I'm sure be able to answer your question.

Out of curiousity, I imagine you are determining the # 2 compressor is not working by looking at the current draw on the EMS panel. If I recall, I think each compressor draws 12-13 amps. Is your rig equipped with 30 or 50 amp service and does it matter which you are hooked up to when the compressor doesn't run? Have you checked your breakers. I know on our 50 amp rig, there are separate circuit breakers for each compressor but I'm not sure about a 30 amp rig.
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Old 05-06-2005, 08:00 AM   #4
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Joe,
I have 30 amp and yes I am going by current draw. I am drawing about 10amps on #1.Thanks for the reply, I am new to this site and how to use it.

Dennis2
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Old 05-06-2005, 08:09 AM   #5
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Hi Ho Dennis: I consider this one of the hidden anomolies that should be better explained. Here is what I found out with our 2000 35U: The EMS panel indicates current from only compressor #1 when running from the generator. I believe that it does indicate current from both when operating from the power cord, but it has been some time since I was also led down the garden path on this one. If you watch the EMS panel closely you will see a momentary wiggle when the second stage kicks in. The problem is that the generator makes so much noise it is difficult to tell when the compressors are running and when they are not. The reason that the EMS doesn't read the second stage current is that the generator has two windings, one of which does not pass through the current sense torroid. You may find, as I did, that there things are normal after all.
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Old 05-06-2005, 09:30 AM   #6
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My previous coach was a 2000 Adventuer 35u. After the three years I had ac problems with the #2 compressor never working. I had a ac tech friend look at it, we pulled the unit out to find that one of the wires had shorted against the high pressure line loosing all the freon in #2 also noticed that a lot of ducting was leeking and the back of the condensor coil was real dirty (using cheap filters that kept collapsing in the under bead comp.) After all back together it worked real well.
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Old 05-06-2005, 04:41 PM   #7
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I just went through this on a 2001 Itasca with basement a/c. I had a technician come in and he found I had a burned wire at the #2 compressor relay in the compartment where the a/c is housed. He put a new wire on and it has worked perfectly ever since. The wire apparently had been loose at the connector and burned over a period of time. He checked all the various values on the rest of the unit and found them to be OK. We checked again two weeks later after heavy use in Florida and every thing was still OK. We checked with Coleman and found this is not too unusual.
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Old 05-06-2005, 05:53 PM   #8
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We checked with Coleman and found this is not too unusual.
Now doesn't that make you all warm a fuzzy?

What happend to good old Quality Control?
When the units out of warranty who pays for the Coleman oversight? OH YES that's U
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Old 05-07-2005, 02:10 AM   #9
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Thanks for info,won't be able to check everything out until we get back to Ohio at the end of this month.Are the relays where you can see them witout removal of unit. #1 doing good job of keeping unit cool.
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Old 05-07-2005, 03:18 AM   #10
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Dennis2: The wire is easily accessable by taking 4 screws out of the cover A/C sets behind. This allows the cover which has the vent opening to lifted on its hinges. A metal box is now accessable just to the left of the radiator. Take a couple of screws out of it and it comes off. It has a diagram of the entire wiring system on the back side of it. Follow this to find your #2 compresser relay. It is easily reached and in the open. Mine had a black #10 wire that was completely fried. The wire is only about 4" long. Not being an electrician I cannot tell you where it comes from or what the amp value is that it carries. Coleman tech's simply meant, these come loose from vibrations of the road and use. They have a crimp connection, which in my opinion, is never as good as solder.
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Old 05-07-2005, 02:38 PM   #11
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Homer,
Thanks for this important info. Will let you know at end of month. Many thanks to the others giving info.
Hope I learn how to use this site to the fullest, and also the winnie site.

Dennis2
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