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Old 01-02-2024, 10:32 AM   #1
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Toad Charging From 2008 Sightseer

I am towing my Colorado using magnetic brake lights with a flat 4pin adaptor from my 7pin rv plug. It seems to me I should be able to tap into the brown (running lights) wire to access 12 volts and hook directly to my toad battery? Then I only run voltage to the toad battery when I have my running lights on....? shutting off the running lights breaks the connection, right? I have not done this yet as I'm afraid of creating a problem I don't know could exist... am I way off base?
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Old 01-02-2024, 04:10 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bugzee View Post
I am towing my Colorado using magnetic brake lights with a flat 4pin adaptor from my 7pin rv plug. It seems to me I should be able to tap into the brown (running lights) wire to access 12 volts and hook directly to my toad battery? Then I only run voltage to the toad battery when I have my running lights on....? shutting off the running lights breaks the connection, right? I have not done this yet as I'm afraid of creating a problem I don't know could exist... am I way off base?

That scenario depends upon the size fuse in the running light circuit, if the battery attempts to draw more it blows the fuse. Install a larger fuse and risk burning out the running light circuit.
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Old 01-02-2024, 06:15 PM   #3
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These discussions get so much bad info, it really gets hard to make sense of things, so doing your own thinking is really worth the effort as a way to avoid the goofy ideas put out!
So turning on the running lights would sound like one way to control the voltage to the tow but with the question of how much current that circuit can handle before tripping the protection.
But then it may be worthwhile to check how your RV acts with the wiring at the trailer connector. It may be fused and wired as you need since it is designed for the job.
I always like to check when I see things that look like they are designed for what I want but much of the time the folks who design and build things DO actually know what they are doing!
Amazing that folks who do this work all the time seem to know more than most of us who only do it once or twice in a lifetime??

So that brings a question? If the standard wiring used by lots of RV builders has a pin 4 that is meant for charging, is there some advantage to using pin 3 instead? Does your pin 4 go dead when the engine is off or does it stay hot?

If it is connected to stay hot only when the RV engine is running, I would first look at doing the wiring as the builder's designed, rather than develop a "new idea"!
When I find a plan that is industry standard and likely drawn up by full time electrical engineers, I often check that mine actually works as designed but I hardly ever try to improve what the industry says is the right way!
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Old 01-02-2024, 06:45 PM   #4
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In my Ford F53 based Winnebago, the 7 pin connector B+ pin is ignition switched so when parked with ignition off there is no issue with leaving the 7 pin RV to 6 pin towed car coil cable connected between the towed car and the RV when overnighting and not disconnecting the RV and the towed car.

In my view in this situation the isolation diode is not required or beneficial.

The important thing is using 12 or 14 gauge primary wire from the ground pin and B+ pin on the towed car towing connector to the battery on the towed car with a protective device in the B+ line. I use 12 guage and 15 amp auto reset circuit breaker.

There is a small risk if you use a 15 amp fast blow fuse that it might open and you would not notice it until you towed and your towed vehicle's battery ran down. The auto reset circuit breaker prevents that.
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Old 01-03-2024, 06:41 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by powercat_ras View Post
There is a small risk if you use a 15 amp fast blow fuse that it might open and you would not notice it until you towed and your towed vehicle's battery ran down. The auto reset circuit breaker prevents that.
On the other hand, an iRV2 member had his Honda CRV go up in smoke in his driveway, by itself (not connected to anything). A short developed between the breaker and the toad umbilical connector; the breaker opened, but then closed again, repeating until a fire started. A fuse would have blown once, giving some idea that a wiring problem was there.

Admittedly, a rare circumstance, and many folks report using a self-resetting breaker without problems.

Quote:
Originally Posted by powercat_ras View Post
In my view in this situation the isolation diode is not required or beneficial.
My coach required a diode in the charge line. In looking through many, I haven't seen a Winnebago wiring diagram that implies it would be needed in a Winnie coach, though.
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Old 01-03-2024, 07:55 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bugzee View Post
I am towing my Colorado using magnetic brake lights with a flat 4pin adaptor from my 7pin rv plug. It seems to me I should be able to tap into the brown (running lights) wire to access 12 volts and hook directly to my toad battery? Then I only run voltage to the toad battery when I have my running lights on....? shutting off the running lights breaks the connection, right? I have not done this yet as I'm afraid of creating a problem I don't know could exist... am I way off base?

It occurred to me, what you propose is an unsafe condition, towing a heavy Colorado with a 34' gas MH.without any braking from the Colorado.
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Old 01-09-2024, 06:58 AM   #7
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Thanks all. I know I have to have aux braking in my scenario, which is why the original post. I think you are all right in saying (one way or another) that the factory set up/design is the best way and that's what I'll do.... I'm no electrical engineer.
thanks again for the input.
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