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Old 01-24-2011, 09:32 AM   #1
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Progressive Industries Surge Protector

Hi,

I am planninmg on buying either the hardwired (EMS-LCHW50C) or portable (EMS-PT50C) version of the Progrssive industries version of surge protection.

My eyes are blurry from reading the many, many threads about the two options and have yet to decide which way to go - if I buy the portable device I will install it in my electrical compartment by adding a pigtail to the shore/generator switch.

If I go with the hard wired version, I would like to install the meter in my coach just below the control panel that contains tank monitors, thermostat, etc. If anyone has done this on a 05 Itasca Suncruiser 35U or similar Adventurer, can you advise me how you routed the cable from the electrical compartment to the control panle?

Thanks,
Preston
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Old 01-24-2011, 12:48 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by prsmith View Post
Hi,

I am planninmg on buying either the hardwired (EMS-LCHW50C) or portable (EMS-PT50C) version of the Progrssive industries version of surge protection.

My eyes are blurry from reading the many, many threads about the two options and have yet to decide which way to go - if I buy the portable device I will install it in my electrical compartment by adding a pigtail to the shore/generator switch.

If I go with the hard wired version, I would like to install the meter in my coach just below the control panel that contains tank monitors, thermostat, etc. If anyone has done this on a 05 Itasca Suncruiser 35U or similar Adventurer, can you advise me how you routed the cable from the electrical compartment to the control panle?

Thanks,
Preston
I am a big fan of the Progressive products, having put one in our previous coach (HW50C), and have recently installed another hard-wired unit in the signature coach. I like the idea of having the unit out-of-sight in the electrical bay. In the old coach I installed it using short pigtails and 50 amp recepticals to create a quick and easy way of removing the unit from service in case it failed. I planned to do the new coach installation the same way, but the electrical bay proved to be too small to allow the additional connections.....so I installed the Progressive unit directly in the shore power feed to the transfer switch, as they recommend. I recently bought a "by-pass" device that can be retro-fitted to their hard wired units, but have yet to install it.

I think I'll just go with their portable 50 amp unit "next time" and use it at the park pedastle as designed.

Sorry I cannot help with you question about how to get the display from the Progressive unit to your "one place" panel.
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Old 01-24-2011, 02:05 PM   #3
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I have had the 30a. portable for about 2 years and it's worked great. I would advise this over hard wiring a unit in. I just use the metal piece on the pig tail of it to lock to the pedestal. The display is good to read there except in direct sun light. Also, you can take it with you when or if you buy a new rig. Also, I had to return the original because I thought it had a defect, but it didn't...The next one did the same thing and I found out there was a problem with the spot I was plugged in to. (Hz. exceeding 60). I moved and all has been normal since. BTW, when it detected this problem- the unit shut off power to the rv and then turned back on after about two minutes. This is what it was suppose to do. I like it a lot.

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Old 01-24-2011, 04:35 PM   #4
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One alternative at about 1/8th the cost is the Intermatic Panel Guard which is what protects our house. It is not smart but it kills the spikes and surges. one will be going into our Teardrop working with the surge protection of the Progressive Dynamics converter.
How much do you need, really?
Note warranty covers only the surge protector NOT what is plugged into it and you are always better off having individual surge protectors protecting things like computers etc.
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Old 01-24-2011, 05:22 PM   #5
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Preston,
I would advise against locating your surge protector inside your RV near your "one panel". Although I don’t know your exact coach layout, you will have to wire 4 wires (large diameter wires) from your transfer switch - to your "one place" - and back again to your transfer switch. If your transfer switch and one place are 10 feet apart, then you will add 20ft of wire. The voltage drop due to this extra length of wire will slightly reduce your A.C. voltage to your coach. Another potential issue is that you will be routing the unprotected shore power line deep inside your coach which is not as safe as locating the surge protection right at the point that the shore power line enters the coach. I used the hard-wired TRC Surge Guard M34560 available from camping world at $288.
One advantage of the portable Surge Guard is that you can by pass it to plug into shore power consisting of 1 30A outlet and 1 20A outlet, since the surge guard will consider this to be a fault. However, disconnecting it disables the surge protection you are trying to accomplish.

Check the following forum link for more info:
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f101/surge-guard-50-amp-installation-10909.html

hope this helps,

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Old 01-24-2011, 05:31 PM   #6
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I've used mine for five years and two motorhomes - and wouldn't want it mounted inside. Why? Check this: LightCurve on the Road
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Old 01-24-2011, 06:19 PM   #7
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Just a note of interest.
I have the portable 50amp model. and just used it this weekend.
One thing about it, It is sooo hard to disengage the 50amp. connector male going into the female one on the surge gaurd.
Actually this is true This morning as I broke camp to come home I had to use a screw driver to help pry the two connectors apart.
Other than than that its great. and yes I have applied dialectric grease to help out but in my case, and it may be rare, the two connectectors are sooo tight.
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Old 01-24-2011, 06:56 PM   #8
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I've got the 50a hard wired, yes my coach is different but; from electrical baggage compartment up between bedroom chest of drawers and toilet room chest of drawrs to washer dryer conection area for the monitor. Was pretty easy. Is around corner from main control panel. Easy to see and monitor.
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Old 01-24-2011, 07:22 PM   #9
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I finally flipped the switch, (no punn intended) and had the hard wired unit installed by Dale Sumner of Mobile RV Medic out of Dade City / Zephyrhills Fla. 352-567-6303.
I was very satisfied with Dale's knowledge of the Progressive product line, RV electrical construction and what should and should not be done with most installations.
I doubt he would mind me posting his contact info. I'm sure he would attempt to answer your questions if you called him.

No, I do not work for him or Progerssive. I'm just a satisfied customer.
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Old 01-24-2011, 08:00 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by prsmith View Post
If I go with the hard wired version, I would like to install the meter in my coach just below the control panel that contains tank monitors, thermostat, etc. If anyone has done this on a 05 Itasca Suncruiser 35U or similar Adventurer, can you advise me how you routed the cable from the electrical compartment to the control panle?
Preston, I have some pictures here for you to look at.

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Old 01-24-2011, 10:11 PM   #11
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I have had the portable PT-50C for 3 years. The first year was on a 5er. The last two were with the MH. That is one of the nice things about the portable, it is portable. Secondly, I have had two instances where it had to be repaired. The first was shortly after acquiring it. It just stopped working. No screws or straps to undo, just send it in and they sent a replacement. The second time there was a leak on the short pig tail and water got into it. They stated it was a bad seal. The resealed it and in both cases I had it back within 5 days.

As posted, it can be a devil to pull out of the coach connector, so I just leave mine plugged into the connector at all times. Even when it is in storage I have a 50 to 30 to 110v plugged into the PT-50C. All of it is still in the electrical bay when I am in storage except for the 12 amp, 110v cord to the plug outside. It is just always plugged into the connector. Also, as posted, I use the metal tab located on the pig tail and a chain wrapped around the pedestal. If someone wants it, they can get it, but it is a little more difficult. With pictures, I should be able to get the insurance company to kick in should it come up missing. I have never fear for something being missing in any of my travels.
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Old 01-25-2011, 02:43 AM   #12
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i have had my progressive 50 amp portable for over 3 years and it works well. it cost me about $100. the connections are kinda tight. i plug it in at the pedestal. i make sure the power breaker is off before connecting or disconnecting the surge device or the moho shore power cable, so using a screwdriver is not a problem for me. i think this is somewhat of an unintended but welcome anti-theft feature.
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Old 01-25-2011, 03:47 AM   #13
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Quote:
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I've used mine for five years and two motorhomes - and wouldn't want it mounted inside. Why? Check this: LightCurve on the Road
Kieth,

Thanks- this is the first time I've seen this. Great point for keeping the unit outside when I read the article.

Drew
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Old 01-25-2011, 04:51 AM   #14
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I've used mine for five years and two motorhomes - and wouldn't want it mounted inside. Why? Check this: LightCurve on the Road
Check www.djsafety.com
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Old 01-26-2011, 12:09 AM   #15
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Quote:
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....... If anyone has done this on a 05 Itasca Suncruiser 35U or similar Adventurer, can you advise me how you routed the cable from the electrical compartment to the control panle?
Preston, your coach may be similar layout as mine and I found an easy way to route the cable from the Progressive hardwired unit to the display inside the coach.
Take out the bottom drawer in the bedroom that is next to the bathroom and look for the water lines going thru a large hole in the floor and into the water connection compartment. Getting the cable from the electrical compartment to the water compartment is easy and access holes can be made in out of site area and sealed. After I had access inside then I mounted it in a convenient location.

Once I plug in at a campsite, one of the first things I do is check the ac volts on both L1 and L2 with a load to make sure the voltage is adequate.
I've had my hardwired unit for 7 yrs now and it has given me a heads up a few times on low power and missing ground connection.
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Old 02-20-2011, 07:11 PM   #16
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Thanks everyone for your input - after a lot of deliberation I bought the Progressive Industries EMS-LCHW50 hard wired version with the integrated display.

Driver I appreciated your link to your photos which showed how Dale did your installation

Here is a shot of my shore line compartment in my 05 Itasca 35U

Note the 4 screws I have highlighted - the top 3 have not been screwed into the back wall above the horizontal seam - the bottom screw is behind the lower cable

I can not see behind the upper back wall so I do not know if the screws were mistakenly left out (they are just hanging in the bracket hole and there are no holes in the back wall) or intentionally left out so as to not puncture something behind the wall.

Essentially the generator/shoreline switch is held in place on the right end by one rather than four screws.

The reason I am asking about this is that I want to install my EMS so as to protect against anomalies in either the shore line or generator supplied power, i.e. the output of the protector would be connected to the Breaker Panel cable. To do this without extending the length of breaker panel line (since I can not get behind the wall), I have to either move the switch up towards the ceiling of the compartment allowing me to mount the EMS below it or lower the switch so that I can mount the EMS above it

In any case I need to have confidence that there is nothing behind the upper portion of the back wall. The screws holding Driver's switch to this portion of wall suggest that there is nothing to worry about behind the top panel

Does anyone have any thoughts on this?

Thanks

Preston
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Old 02-20-2011, 08:15 PM   #17
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The reason I am asking about this is that I want to install my EMS so as to protect against anomalies in either the shore line or generator supplied power, i.e. the output of the protector would be connected to the Breaker Panel cable. To do this without extending the length of breaker panel line (since I can not get behind the wall), I have to either move the switch up toward the ceiling of the compartment allowing me to mount the EMS below it or lower the switch so that I can mount the EMS above it...
Preston, I had both the generator and the house run through the previous TRC unit. When Dale installed the Progressive unit he restored the connection from the generator directly to the transfer switch and told me that it did not need to be connected to the EMS. The generator has its own protective circuits.

Don't sweat trying to integrate the generator onto the input side of the Progressive EMS.
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Old 02-20-2011, 08:29 PM   #18
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Preston:

I have a 09 Journey and wanted to protect the Generator and AC feed withthe PI 50 amp unit. I felt there was insufficient space in the basement compartment to mount it especially with the rigidity of the large gauge conductors required and no space to store slack to be able to connect it outside and then mount it in the compartment.
I found there was space in a cabinet below the breaker panel in the rear bedroom to mount it. This is immediately above where the washer/dryer would go and below the breaker panel. I removed the feed cable from the breaker panel and used it as the feed to the PI unit and bought 6 feet of 4 conductor cable to run from the unit back to the breaker panel. Was able to make all connections and then install the unit on the rear panel (reinforced with 3/4" plywood for the unit) and store the excess wire behind the panel with other wiring to the breaker panel. There is lots of space between the rear of the cabinet and the rear cap. Made for a neat installation well protected from the elements and easy to mount the digital display. You might want to consider a similar option mounting close to your breaker panel.
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