No power or generator

[Morich]

It does often make a pretty good "thump" that we can hear as the contacts are big like slapping a big washer across them!

To test without actually having to get to the solenoid, we cantest the start battery without being plugged in or engine running and get something like 12 + volts if it has not been running for a while, then test the coach batteries and get some different reading but if they arte charged it is likely near 12+ also but okay if lower as what we want to see is the start battery jump higher when we start the engine and if we rev it a bit, we might get around 14 volts and at the same time if the solenoid is pulling/ thump we should see the coach battery also get that much higher 14 volts, showing they are connected together and we are seeing the engine alternator working to charge both!
So if the start battery jumps up but the coach battery doesn't, it is likely the contacts inside the solenoid are closing when you hear the click or thump but they are corroded or burned so that the power doesn't get across to the other side and the coach battery doesn't get the charge it should.

But something to always be aware of it that testing sat the battery and not getting the jump in voltage can also be caused by dirty cables between the solenoid and battery--- but not very often but just something to look for before going to the trouble of changing the solenoid.

When it's working right and the engine revs, you should be able to see the meter go up and down and the RPM does on both start and coach batteries!

[Rochaven]

There are two solenoids. The left one says Trombetta 12v Cont, and the right one says Ignition Proof Coach Chassis. Which is the one I need to replace?

[Morich]

Sounds like the left one is the mode solenoid but one way to verify is to have somebody push the dash switch while you feel of the solenoid. Then it is the one that makes the thump! Real high tech method??

Trombeta is a name I read often for that solenoid but the second one sounds like it may be some type of label for the connections?
So for shopping, there are actually quite a few ways this type of solenoid is used and that makes them show up in more places. Cole-Hersee is one common one but there are folks who want to get as sturdy as possible and hope they never have to change it again and they shop for very specific brands which I have never gone into as I kind of go with the idea that the one you have on a 2007 model lasted plenty long enough for me to be happy if the replacement lasts as well!

I'm not into telling you what level you want but the items I look at are the amps it is rated and continous duty to carry with 85 being normal but higher is good, too. Then I like to get things that match what I have rather than have to add to or changes wires. When dealing with $25 dollar items that lasted nearly fifteen years, I don't worry too much about getting the next one to last longer!
I do like to get the same number of connections and it's nice if it mounts the same but what price for what price is less important to me than if I can go to the local auto parts store and look it over. I just feel better if I can see it first!

Lots of sources for the Cole-Hersee and you might find a modle number on the one you have???
https://www.google.com/search?q=cole...hrome&ie=UTF-8

[Bobn1957]

Originally Posted by Rochaven

Thanks, all of you. I appreciate you taking the time to teach me. Here is my next question. When I took the batteries out, I found they were separated by these burned pieces of plywood. I didn't find any other signs of a fire. Can the batteries get that hot? If so why? Is it possible they just used the already burned boards because that is what they had? It's kinda scary thinking it got hot enough to char the boards. Are there recommended materials for spacers between the batteries?

The boards look burned due to the batteries off-gassing hydrochloric acid, normal situation. I would replace them with a piece of plastic.