Inverter upgrade help

edju · 08-30-2022, 03:01 PM

I've got a 2018 Sunstar 29VE with the original Xantrex Pro XM 1000 inverter. I like the remote control panel that's inside to turn it on/off and a display to see battery voltage or current and output power. I also like the automatic transfer switch to supply shore power to those outlets on the inverter output when the inverter is off.

But I'd like to upgrade the power to something close to 2000W to power the microwave or coffee maker in the morning. I'm thinking as long as I'm doing the upgrade to get a pure sine wave inverter.

So a couple of questions.
Is it worth going to pure sine wave for use with the microwave?
If you have you done an upgrade, what brand/model did you buy, why, are you happy? Was it difficult to swap it out?

Appreciate the help.
Ed

davismills · 08-31-2022, 06:21 AM

I had the same inverter that you currently have installed. I upgraded to the Progressive Dynamics PD1200 pure sine wave inverter. I believe they also have a 2000 as well. The integrated power transfer switch was a must have for me as well.

I did this because I had upgraded to a residential fridge and replaced the TV in my RV. The Xantrex was flaking out the TV when "inverting" and I was worried that this same modified sine wave would harm the new fridge as well. I've been well pleased with the inverter, and it was a fairly easy install as I used the existing battery cables. The PD inverter came with 50 feet or so of telephone cable to connect to the included remote. That's where my biggest install problem was as there seem to be no easy way to route the new cable.

In the end, I re-pinned the old Xantrex "telephone" line to match the pinout of the PD inverter, and all was well.

Does it work? Yes, the fridge works well, and the TV is no longer distorted.

JLUSoCal · 08-31-2022, 08:00 AM

edju,

I have the same 29ve and a PD1610J awaiting installation. While I'd like a bit more power (i am replacing it with the same wattage), I didn't want to go through the hassle of bigger battery cables (it's about 10-12 feet of needed cable length) and re-wire any other outlets.

That said, I'm very interested davismills if you'd share the pinouts to spare the cable routing. The cable goes under the shower pan in our model (actually not that hard to route). I bought the unit from someone that pulled their unit, and it looks brand new. I, too like that it has the built-in transfer switch like the Xantrex.

I have 200 amps of lithium battery that keeps voltage high. Not sure if lead acid would do as well trying to keep up with those two higher amperage appliances. But they are short cycles, so maybe. It might help to pull the inverter closer to the battery as cables will be expensive and running new 120-volt lines much cheaper - but anything above 1000 watts requires upgrading the existing cables that are 1 gauge if I recall and again 10-12 feet in length.

Someone mentioned this site to help with cable size and voltage drop -
https://www.calculator.net/voltage-drop-calculator.html

I'll be following, and hopefully, in the next few months, I'll get my upgrade done.

davismills · 08-31-2022, 09:47 AM

My RV is at the storage lot right now so I don't have the pinouts. I basically matched colors from the PD to the Xantrex cable. The PD cable was configured as a crossover pinout. It was yellow - green - red - black on one end and the reverse on the other as in black - red - green - yellow.

I was a network engineer in my former life, so I had to blow the dust off my tools and brain. A simple kit from Lowes or HD will allow you to crimp the RJ-11 ends.

JLUSoCal · 08-31-2022, 03:55 PM

Thanks Davismills - work in IT and I know I have a crimper here somewhere

.

edju · 09-04-2022, 11:39 PM

Thanks Dave for the info about your upgrade to the PD inverter. You mentioned the new fridge was now on it too. Did you rewire it's power to use the inverter? I did a quick change to try that, but I'd like to know how you did it.
Thanks again.
Ed

edju · 09-04-2022, 11:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JLUSoCal

edju,

I have the same 29ve and a PD1610J awaiting installation. While I'd like a bit more power (i am replacing it with the same wattage), I didn't want to go through the hassle of bigger battery cables (it's about 10-12 feet of needed cable length) and re-wire any other outlets.

That said, I'm very interested davismills if you'd share the pinouts to spare the cable routing. The cable goes under the shower pan in our model (actually not that hard to route). I bought the unit from someone that pulled their unit, and it looks brand new. I, too like that it has the built-in transfer switch like the Xantrex.

I have 200 amps of lithium battery that keeps voltage high. Not sure if lead acid would do as well trying to keep up with those two higher amperage appliances. But they are short cycles, so maybe. It might help to pull the inverter closer to the battery as cables will be expensive and running new 120-volt lines much cheaper - but anything above 1000 watts requires upgrading the existing cables that are 1 gauge if I recall and again 10-12 feet in length.

Someone mentioned this site to help with cable size and voltage drop -
https://www.calculator.net/voltage-drop-calculator.html

I'll be following, and hopefully, in the next few months, I'll get my upgrade done.

Thanks JLUSoCal for your thoughts about the inverter. Please let me know how your conversion went. I'm glad you brought up the concern about battery cables. I just figured that with the short time of use, the higher amperage wouldn't cause too much trouble, but I'll have to take a closer look.
Thanks,
Ed

davismills · 09-05-2022, 12:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by edju

Thanks Dave for the info about your upgrade to the PD inverter. You mentioned the new fridge was now on it too. Did you rewire it's power to use the inverter? I did a quick change to try that, but I'd like to know how you did it.
Thanks again.
Ed

Ed,

I had the fridge installed at MidState RV in Macon, GA so they did the re-wire. All my inverter outlets were on a dedicated 15-amp breaker "sub panel" so I believe the tech just moved the fridge wires to join that breaker. I have a total of four outlets that power the fridge and two TVs. One outlet near the co-pilot seat keeps the laptop charged as well. Inverter on or off, I have power at those outlets and the PD inverter defaults to shore/generator power if sensed.

Works great on two acid-based batteries and the engine alternator keeps it topped off just fine. I'm not a boondocker, so I really just need the inverter for enroute trips (with short stops/breaks) when generator power is not required otherwise.
Dave

edju · 09-05-2022, 04:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by davismills

Ed,

I had the fridge installed at MidState RV in Macon, GA so they did the re-wire. All my inverter outlets were on a dedicated 15-amp breaker "sub panel" so I believe the tech just moved the fridge wires to join that breaker. I have a total of four outlets that power the fridge and two TVs. One outlet near the co-pilot seat keeps the laptop charged as well. Inverter on or off, I have power at those outlets and the PD inverter defaults to shore/generator power if sensed.

Works great on two acid-based batteries and the engine alternator keeps it topped off just fine. I'm not a boondocker, so I really just need the inverter for enroute trips (with short stops/breaks) when generator power is not required otherwise.
Dave

Hi Dave,
I don't have a sub-panel. My inverter powers similar outlets (plus two of the bedroom nightstand-cubbies), 3 TVs and an outside fridge. I just swapped a connection under the galley from the bedroom TV to the main fridge. Like you, that allows me to power the fridge while driving, and not use propane. But if I upgrade the inverter to power the microwave, I'll need to do some more serious rewiring. I do boondock once in awhile. So far the two 6V AGM batteries are holding up just fine.
Thanks again for the insight. Safe travels.
Ed