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Old 10-22-2023, 05:43 AM   #1
Winnebago Camper
 
Join Date: Oct 2023
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Bathroom vanity light bar 2002 Adventurer 35U

I am the new owner of a 2002 Adventurer 35U. Low mileage, etc. The vanity light bar above the mirror is getting no 12v power. (The wall on/off switch appears to have some corrosion from moisture.) The tub light works fine. I've reset all 12v breakers above the microwave and still get no power. Also, one of the two sconce lights in the bedroom is getting no power (spotlights work fine) and the sconce light in the living room gets no power. I don't see how I can run a new power line in the bathroom because I can't get behind the wall. I've had a 96 Brave 31RQ for about 10 years and loved the simplicity of it. Hope I haven't made a mistake with this....much more sophisticated, jacks, slides, etc. Any assist on the electrical issue will be welcomed. I'm new at this forum so if I'm not using it properly, please let me know. Thanks
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Old 10-22-2023, 08:18 AM   #2
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For being able to repair any electrical items you are actually lucky to be in the pre 2010 group! We don't get the same good info on electrical schematics after 2010, making it extremely hard to follow any wiring questions! But we do get the good stuff on your RV, so maybe we need to sort some small points to make sure what I see is matching what you have?
The problem is that drawings have their own names for things and we often call them something else ?
We need to get the language sorted first, perhaps?
I see a bath makeup lamp on drawings! Does this match what you see as vanity lamp? they do a great job of showing things as they actually appear, so do you see a lamp with three bulbs?
Click this snip to get a better view!
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Then there is always a question if we are speaking the same when testing? When saying it gets no power, does that mean you have checked voltage to the bulbs and did you test for ground at that point?
We often forget that it has to have a path in as well as one going back out to ground.
I suggest first working on just one item that is failing to avoid massive confusion. Seems the vanity light might be a good spot to start?

If this is the correct light (check, me on that!) there is a simple way to do some cutting the chase as that light shares wiring with a bath vent fan!

Do you spot these two fan switches in the bath? Looks like one to turn power on and a second to set speed, perhaps?
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the idea is that wire JF feeds 12VDC power to both the light and fan, so if the vent fan is found working on both speeds, we don't need to look back toward the battery any further but can assume the fuse, etc is okay for the fan to work and the problem will be from the fan toward the light, making the chase much shorter!
Can you sort it a bit to get if we need to chase power and if it gets to the vent fan or do we need to chase ground and where it gets to the light?
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Why no RV year, make and floorplan on MY signature as we suggest for others?
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Old 10-22-2023, 04:34 PM   #3
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Thank you Richard for your quick response. Actually, I feel a bit embarrassed because I've found the problem is that the on/off switch has been corroded to the point of disintegration. In taking the switch out of the wall, I believe there's been quite a bit of moisture in the wall and corroded the switch to the point that the terminals are no longer useable. I need a new switch and I don't believe anything else. Being the owner of a "vintage" 66 Brave, I've done wuite a bit of trouble shooting successfully, so I'm not a complete idiot.......and I had been an aircraft mechanic in my "youth". Anyway, I think I'll just get a new switch, try to locate the source of the moisture and go on to other challenges in this old girl. I have an operating switch for the shower light, but there's another switch that doesn't appear to operate anything. The a/c hair dryer seems to work fine, but nothing happens with the other switch. My next challenge with be the two sconce lights, one in bedroom and the other in the dinette area. Neither of the get d/c power. I had a troublesome sconce light in the Brave, but playing with the switch enough times would usually turn it on. Any guidance on these 2 problems will be enlightening. Thanks again for your quick response.
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Old 10-22-2023, 05:46 PM   #4
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Better idea of what level help may be needed?
There are lots of good sites online from Winnebago but we might never find them, so I like to point to them!
Winn home page:
https://www.winnebago.com/
Check under the "owners" tab for a list of tons of good info. I use the plumbing and wiring a lot but manuals are great for lots of things like how to winterize?

Lots of small points that may help but I'm short on time at the moment. Back in a bit to add some things to speed the learning curne on how Winn does it different than many.
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Old 10-22-2023, 07:42 PM   #5
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Find the wiring info for your RV here:
https://www.winnebago.com/Files/File...ram/Wiring.htm
Some ideas on how to work with some of the Winn info may be of use!
If you get into the electrical drawings, there will often be three groups.
One is chassis 12 volt for the things we find on trucks. Really not too much there on most RV but some on clearance lights and a few things. Really lacking for things like horn, starter, etc that make the bulk of chassis wiring. they consider that to be chassis builders stuff!

Two is the coach 12vdc like inside lights, vents fans, water pump and stuff Winnebago adds. On your year before 2010, we get pretty good wire by wire schematics for the wires Winn adds but that also stops where their wiring meets another builders stuff. for wiring details on furnace, frig, steps, etc, we often need to look online for that brand, model, etc for info.

The 110 AC is a separate section for cord and generator output, breakers and micro, etc that use 110, but little/nothing on the generator itself!

When you get down to the wiring question, decide if it is more likely a 12VDc coach like inside lights, then you may need to go to the "installation" section as that gives a drawing of the RV with parts like lights shown on it to let you ID any specific light.
Same with 110AC questions.
Go to the 110AC drawings and locate the part? Sometimes the drawing is a big help on where the wiring comes from, sometimes a terrible mess and little help!
Click these snips from this drawing:
https://www.winnebago.com/Files/File...ire_138211.pdf

Pretty good?
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And not so good!
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But if you go to the 110 "diagram" it brings more readable info if used to looking at this type. First there are two diagrams, one for 30 Amp RV and another for 50Amp. so choose the correct one and search out the item you want to fix?
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Installation may show a path and then the diagram should show what other items or points that path may go through? Kind of like a goofy roadmap? how to get from Chicago to Dallas and want to know what towns along the way?

Another big point that may have been on your RV but maybe not is the way Winn labeled I do small wires. What year did they start?
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If you find this code on wires, use this chart to "decode where it comes from and goes to as well as gauge and wire color!
https://www.winnebago.com/Files/File...ical_guide.pdf

Note that when looking at the 12VDC drawings, there will be gauge and color as well as the wiring ID on the map to match with the decoder list and that can be helpful in finding which is battery and ground.
There will be times when you find neither battery nor ground at some plug and knowing which color is which can help to cut the confusion on how to set the meter and where to go!

That's kind of the short course as a starter, so maybe see how it goes and shout back if I can assist.
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Why no RV year, make and floorplan on MY signature as we suggest for others?
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Old 10-23-2023, 04:20 AM   #6
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Thank you again for so much information and so quickly. It appears that I have much to digest. I'll get back to you as soon as I get some results. Thanks again.
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Old 10-29-2023, 03:50 PM   #7
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Well, I finally got back to playing with my new toy. I'm a bit embarrassed as I now realize that my problem was no more than a bad switch caused by apparent moisture in the sidewall over time. Easy repair, but need to further investigate the source of the moisture. Two additional items need attention. Generator appears to have been neglected for a while. Mouse nest, etc and oil looks pretty dirty and very thick. When I hit the start, it just clicks quite loudly. And for the life of me I cannot locate an on/off valve anywhere on the propane tank. Reading the owners manual doesn't give a location either. It's right on the tank on my old Brave. Gotta be somewhere. Any clue would help. Thanks
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Old 10-29-2023, 06:01 PM   #8
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On generator starting, it sounds like maybe dirty corroded cable from the battery disconnect relay to the starter solenoid on the generator! click click may be the solenoid closing but when it does, there is not enough 12VDC getting there to turn the generator starter. Works much like the engine and has near the same parts---except on generator!

This is the drawing for that part of the 12VDc.
Click to see better.
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This mode solenoid is also where the two batteries are tied together when the RV engine is running.
I marked chassis battery as green and coach in red.
This solenoid is where the two connect together, but the power on the red line has a cable from the solenoid over just a few inches to the disconnect relay. When that relay is closed by the disconnect switch, the power goes through the relay and almost straight to the generator solenoid. That power also comes off that side of the relay and goes to lots of fuses that make the RV stuff work. If the inside lights, fans, and such work we assume the relay is passing the power but it is not getting to the generator good enough to crank it! Should be no connections, etc between those two points, so I might check that both ends are clean and tight to get good power to start the generator!

But there is one way to help if it seems to take too long to crank the generator. It is always a good idea to start the RV engine first as that ties the chassis battery and alternator running together with the coach battery. That means you are sure to get better power to start and not have to worry so much if it takes time to pump fuel to the generator or it's cold, etc.
some start pretty quick and others not, so giving it the best shot is often a good idea!

The LP tank should have a valve with handwheel to cut off the propane. Right on the tank where they want to turn it off when filling.
might look like this drawing?
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But then that's where I'm looking at what they built and it's been a while so things could get changed so what the paper says and what you see may not be the same. Go with what you find, not what I say!!
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Why no RV year, make and floorplan on MY signature as we suggest for others?
I currently DO NOT have one!
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Old 11-12-2023, 03:37 PM   #9
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Both the weather and spare time haven't allowed me the time to further troubleshoot the generator, but I have realized that the pressure regulator on the propane tank is no longer attached to the tank. It's still attached to the hose, but sitting on the shelf above the tank along with the on/off spigot wheel. Curious why it's been removed from the tank. Don't see any mounting brackets either where it had been attached. All other hardware is still on the tank. Does anyone know of any recalls on the propane system? Tank itself looks intact with a minimal amount of rust.
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Old 11-12-2023, 04:35 PM   #10
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I think of those as being much like any propane tank and screwed into the tank. sideways instead of on top but the same?

Maybe should look something like this vid where the guy is adding and extra part?
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