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Old 07-01-2008, 06:57 AM   #1
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I finally finished my project of changing the overhead mounted 24 inch Sony TV out to a 32" LCD TV on my 2005 Horizon.

I had to cut back the existing steel cage by 2 inches on the sides. I also had to widen the opening in the wooden fascia, which left me exactly 1/8 of an inch between the sides of the facia and the back of the LCD TV. It also left a inch of wood facia on the outside on the sides of the TV.

Anyway I thought I would post the pictures incase anyone is thinking about doing the same.

Now I have to resolve a grounding problem. A hum developed after I connected the TV audio output to the external amplifier. The sound works fine and the output is adjustable via the TV remote. When I shut of the inverter/converter the hum is gone, so I guess that I'll start by checking the grounding at the inverter.

As I mentioned in another post I also changed the glass out to a wire mesh to deal with the heat developing in the overhead cabinets, so I have included a picture of that as well.

This is the finished project



This is what remains after removing everything

http://www.irv2.com/photopost/data/8..._wire_mess.JPG

Here I have increased the width on the fascia opening to 30.5", installed the braces for the board to which the LCD traversing arm mounts. Also added a wire chase to easily pull new wires from left to right cabinet.

http://www.irv2.com/photopost/data/8...wire_chase.JPG

This is a picture of the cabinet door that I replaced the glass with a wire mesh to eliminate high temperatures in the overhead cabinets

http://www.irv2.com/photopost/data/8...mesh_doors.JPG
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Old 07-01-2008, 06:57 AM   #2
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I finally finished my project of changing the overhead mounted 24 inch Sony TV out to a 32" LCD TV on my 2005 Horizon.

I had to cut back the existing steel cage by 2 inches on the sides. I also had to widen the opening in the wooden fascia, which left me exactly 1/8 of an inch between the sides of the facia and the back of the LCD TV. It also left a inch of wood facia on the outside on the sides of the TV.

Anyway I thought I would post the pictures incase anyone is thinking about doing the same.

Now I have to resolve a grounding problem. A hum developed after I connected the TV audio output to the external amplifier. The sound works fine and the output is adjustable via the TV remote. When I shut of the inverter/converter the hum is gone, so I guess that I'll start by checking the grounding at the inverter.

As I mentioned in another post I also changed the glass out to a wire mesh to deal with the heat developing in the overhead cabinets, so I have included a picture of that as well.

This is the finished project



This is what remains after removing everything

http://www.irv2.com/photopost/data/8..._wire_mess.JPG

Here I have increased the width on the fascia opening to 30.5", installed the braces for the board to which the LCD traversing arm mounts. Also added a wire chase to easily pull new wires from left to right cabinet.

http://www.irv2.com/photopost/data/8...wire_chase.JPG

This is a picture of the cabinet door that I replaced the glass with a wire mesh to eliminate high temperatures in the overhead cabinets

http://www.irv2.com/photopost/data/8...mesh_doors.JPG
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Old 07-01-2008, 07:46 AM   #3
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Great job and lots of satisfaction, I'll bet. As much as building a Heathkit. Anyone remember those?
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Old 07-01-2008, 07:48 AM   #4
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Nice job, thanks for the photos. I am going to replace mine this winter.
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Old 07-01-2008, 08:07 AM   #5
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Harry--

Great job! Thanks for the post--I am hoping to change out mine in the near future. I really like the way yours came out.

John

PS two2go--You sure brought back a long lost hobby when you mentioned "Heathkit" Haven't heard that name in a long time!
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Old 07-01-2008, 08:38 AM   #6
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Harry, great job. Looks real good.

I can appreciate what it took you to do this modification, as you have probably seen on this forum, I just completed mine, except I added about 7 sq. feet of living space in our living room due to my TV being in an entertainment center behind the passenger chair.

Great job!

David
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Old 07-01-2008, 08:51 AM   #7
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GREAT JOB

I am in the process of pulling mine out

which TV model is that
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Old 07-01-2008, 09:43 AM   #8
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">As much as building a Heathkit. Anyone remember those? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Yes I remember well. However the Heath kits came with detailed instructions. This was a figure it out as you go project.

Bob,

The TV is a Sharp Aquos, Model LC-C3234U. It was narrow enough to fit in the opening and had the variable audio outputs needed for the external amplifier
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Old 07-01-2008, 12:21 PM   #9
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Good job Harry

I am getting more and more envious - Rex (LK23) also converted to LCD - I'm stuck in the 'glass age."

Heathkit - I remember them well - built some ham gear, an oscilloscope, DVM, and a 27" console color TV (with ultrasonic remote control - the hand-held remote button would strike a metal rod that resonated at a particular ultrasonic frequency. After a year or so, the remote stopped working - found out the cat sprayed the ultrasonic microphone on the front of the set )
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Old 10-23-2008, 09:11 PM   #10
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Heathkit, O yeah. My first Heathkit was a DX-20 CW Xmitter; (1957) later a Mohawk Rcvr and a Marauder SSB Xmitter. The best thing about them was that all the parts were included. The worst thing was the weight they had.

But that experience taught us all how to install lcd tv's ilo crts and charger/inverters in our present day toys.

73, all.

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Old 10-24-2008, 03:01 AM   #11
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Heathkit version of the Collins KWM-2. Ex wife hated it...maybe that's why it is ex wife
Ex WB4IQA.
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Old 11-12-2008, 04:34 PM   #12
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Really nice job Harry.

How did you match the wood so well?
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Old 01-10-2009, 07:48 PM   #13
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Bob,

Sorry for the late reply but your reply wound up in my Junk Email box for some reason. Just checked it today.

I sanded the original wood and applied two coats of Minwax Cherry 235 stain and 2 coats of Minwax Polyurethane clear satin. It matched perfectly after it dryed. I experimented on the pieces of facia I had removed from the sides prior to starting on the surrounding wood of the remaining facia.
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