Broken Compartment Door Latch

LeeB · 02-09-2021, 05:31 PM

My plastic latch broke. I found a old thread on here that had a web site of someone who makes new latches..... https://www.motorhomelatches.com/category-s/101.htm

Question; Do i just want to order the rebuild kit or the whole latch?

Thanks LeeB

Cooperhawk · 02-09-2021, 05:55 PM

Actually I got some from Winnebago Parts.

Mobility RV.

https://winnebagoparts.com

LeeB · 02-09-2021, 07:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cooperhawk

Actually I got some from Winnebago Parts.

Mobility RV.

https://winnebagoparts.com

Funny you say that because I already ordered some from them and they should be here next week. I am just wondering if they are going to be plastic..
LeeB

Oldchinahand · 02-09-2021, 08:36 PM

Have to jump in, as these plastic latches are yet another pet peeve. They break often. When they do, the break is midway down the length of the plastic "tongue", which means the latch cannot retract. To overcome that, you have to jimmy a thin phillips between the door and body to remove the latch catch. Then replace the latch and the catch.

By the each, they are expensive, but by the ten pack they become reasonable (????) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have two that have aluminum "tongues". They have those because I disassembled two broken latches and filed shaped some aluminum bar to replace the plastic "tongue". Reassembled. Took hours!!! But, those two are now my oldest latches.

I called the retail supplier (because these are made where?) to see about buying with aluminum "tongues". Apparently, they don't have a lot of mfg control.

On a happy note, since a drill motor and pop riveter is part of our tool box, even on the road I can remove the catch, open the door, drill out the latch, remove the electric actuator cover, remove the throw rod clip, slip out the throw rod, attach throw rod to new latch, slide the assembly in place, pop rivet the latch. connect the throw rod, attach the retainer clip, re-install the actuator cover, re-install the catch, put the tools away and close the door in about 20 minutes.

(Unless an audience gathers. Then it takes until tomorrow)

Fair Winds and Following Seas

LeeB · 02-09-2021, 10:14 PM

Thanks

Quote:

Originally Posted by Oldchinahand

By the each, they are expensive, but by the ten pack they become reasonable (????) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

On a happy note, since a drill motor and pop riveter is part of our tool box, even on the road I can remove the catch, open the door, drill out the latch, remove the electric actuator cover, remove the throw rod clip, slip out the throw rod, attach throw rod to new latch, slide the assembly in place, pop rivet the latch. connect the throw rod, attach the retainer clip, re-install the actuator cover, re-install the catch, put the tools away and close the door in about 20 minutes.

(Unless an audience gathers. Then it takes until tomorrow)

You say electric actuator? Mine is manual.. Will that make a difference? I know what you mean 20 minutes or tomorrow..

Fair Winds and Following Seas

Thanks LeeB

Oldchinahand · 02-10-2021, 08:17 AM

Our rig has the TriMark system that still works. We replaced one of the solenoids a while back (and carry a spare). The door handle and latch worked just fine without it. Just couldn't lock electrically. Key lock worked.

Fair Winds and Following Seas

LeeB · 02-10-2021, 01:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Oldchinahand

Our rig has the TriMark system that still works. We replaced one of the solenoids a while back (and carry a spare). The door handle and latch worked just fine without it. Just couldn't lock electrically. Key lock worked.

Fair Winds and Following Seas

opcorn :

LeeB

LeeB · 02-10-2021, 05:58 PM

Latches arrived today from Winnebagoparts.com and are a exact match..... Tomorrow will be install time... Plus I have a spare.... I will be ordering the pack of 10 from Amazon they are $2+ cheaper and then I'll have all kinds of spares....... Who knows someone at a campground may need one

LeeB

LeeB · 02-11-2021, 04:52 PM

Well that was easy enough.

LeeB

Oldchinahand · 02-12-2021, 09:14 PM

Our experience is that most things are more difficult in contemplation than in execution.

On to the next task!!

Fair Winds and Following Seas

jerrybb · 02-14-2021, 04:18 PM

I try to not let the doors slam, but close gently while holding the handle out. So far so good but I know its a matter of time.

mikf · 02-14-2021, 04:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jerrybb

I try to not let the doors slam, but close gently while holding the handle out. So far so good but I know its a matter of time.

Me too.

CharlesMoore · 02-14-2021, 05:12 PM

Some time ago I received and advert for metal bin latches. I have not had a plastic on fail because of the way we close the bin and latch it. Our procedure is to lift the handle and close the bin then release the handle and after that use our knee to close the slider. However, if one does break I will replace it with the following: https://www.motorhomelatches.com/product-p/wn001.htm

HappiHenri · 02-14-2021, 06:01 PM

For our 2005 Adventurer - when I needed a couple of replacement baggage compartment latches I found them on Amazon. Quick & easy exact replacement

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Laughrw · 02-14-2021, 07:16 PM

Go to RB machining to buy metal latches

Cheryl Bisson · 02-14-2021, 07:49 PM

The metal latch is made by RB Machining, RV Division, Palmdale, CA, 671-944-9322, [email protected], part #WN001. A year or so ago one was $16.50. They also have rebuild kits.

LeeB · 02-16-2021, 08:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cheryl Bisson

The metal latch is made by RB Machining, RV Division, Palmdale, CA, 671-944-9322, [email protected], part #WN001. A year or so ago one was $16.50. They also have rebuild kits.

Thanks being my MH is 16yrs old I decided to buy the plastic ones from Amazon 10 for $40.00........ It was easy to do.... I'll just be careful closing the compartments

LeeB

Oldchinahand · 02-18-2021, 09:40 PM

These observations about not slamming the cargo doors is great advice. And should be followed.

There is a complicator.

If you refer to your Owner's Manual it likely tells you to press on the door while closing because the sealing gaskets are robust -- or words to that effect. Those gaskets exert a continual, strong force against the door, with the plastic latch tongue carrying all that force.

To paraphrase Forrest Gump, "plastic is as plastic does".

Fair Winds and Following Seas