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Old 02-15-2022, 03:09 PM   #1
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2016 Adventruer 38Q EMERGENCY QUESTIONS

We have arrived home from our purchase of this RV and in Delaware it is freezing. I have lines that are frozen and have the gen on and running for heat. Also have a space heater and the fireplace running. I am now going to read the manuels to find all low point drains but fear it will take too long and am asking for assistance in the locations of all drains.
Washer is a big question refrigerator any and all drains
I have the antifreeze ready to go.
One problem is that when I asked the previous owner if he ever winterized the water heater he said no I now understand why, the bypass valve does not work.
Best I can tell I will need to fill that before I can proceed even after I find all drains.
I know a unit only needs ab out three gallons to do the system completely but I am stuck with this valve that is bad.



Any and all assistance is appreciated.



Pray for me LOL



Thanks Greg
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Old 02-15-2022, 04:31 PM   #2
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for your first winterization, would you be better off taking it to an RV Maintenance facility or calling a mobile RV tech? Sounds like it is something that needs to happen quickly.
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Old 02-15-2022, 04:37 PM   #3
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Given your huge investment, I suggest you get someone with RV experience to help IN PERSON either someone you know or a mobile RV repair person.

Now that pipes and perhaps water heater tank are frozen, you may have to make repairs before you can try to use the water pump to winterize.

You may want to use your propane furnace to heat this will also heat the basement where the living space heaters don't put any heat into the basement where no doubt some of the frozen pipes and tanks are.
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Old 02-15-2022, 05:49 PM   #4
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I have found these and only two remain

Well pants on fire and loosing my mind has come down to a dull roar.
I have found all drains as I had a pdf file that showed all and much information.
The reason for alarm was the expected lows and the fact that it appeared and was a fact that some lines were frozen.


I will post pics of what I found in the pdf file and try to also attach the pdf for others to use.


I still cannot cypher how to drain the washer as best I can understand you simply put some antifreeze in the machine and run for a cycle. BUT what good does that do the supply lines?


Thanks for any and all answers and here are some pics of pages of pdf that helped me and the actual pdf for 2016 Winnebago Adventurer 39Q
Well so much for the pdf file.
Attached Thumbnails
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Old 02-15-2022, 05:55 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tim myers View Post
for your first winterization, would you be better off taking it to an RV Maintenance facility or calling a mobile RV tech? Sounds like it is something that needs to happen quickly.

I have winterized many many times. Problem is this rig is new to us and we expected to have time before winterizaton. didn't happen


I have located all drains and have opened and drained to a level of comfort that I can finish the project tomorrow. Only remaining question is about the washer and how to drain. In the pics I recently posted it show some things but nothing explicit about how to drain the fill hosed


Thanks for your reply. Greatly appreciated
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Old 02-15-2022, 06:09 PM   #6
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I just de-winterized my 38Q yesterday so I'll go in reverse. Washer first- its easy.

Simply open the washer and put about 1/2 gallon of RV antifreeze in the drum. Turn on the washer on spin cycle with the water supply turned off. That will circulate anti freeze through the lower pumps and guts.

When you start camping again make sure you run through a rinse cycle to remove it.

As far as water supply to the washer. Go to the lower rear drawer below the closet. Remove the drawer. You'll see a hole in the rear panel that will grants access to the valves for the washer. Turn them off. Unscrew the supply hoses and let them drain. You'll be fine on the washer at that point.
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Old 02-15-2022, 06:14 PM   #7
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Quick question, what was the low temp last night?
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Old 02-15-2022, 06:14 PM   #8
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Water heater is an easy one- simply shut off the power (gas and electric) and open the neopreme plug at the bottom to drain it on the ground. Takes about 10 minutes. 4 screws on the bottom of the outside panel (underneath) that allow the fake compartment cover to swing up. Watch your head- nothing to hold it up. I use a long stick.

Some folks use the pink RV fluid to winterize. I use compressed air at 20 lbs. Seems easier , less messy, less expensive to me.
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Old 02-15-2022, 06:22 PM   #9
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Make sure you get the 2 drain valves just above and to the right of the LP tank.

I also open the panel (6 screws) immediately above the hot water heater to access the water pump. There is a small plastic bowl with a screen in it. You don't want that bowl to freeze with any water in it so I drain it and make sure no water is coming from the pump.

Make sure you get the supply side of the toilet well drained or full of antifreeze. All interior traps (drains) need antifreeze. (I had one crack on me)

Good luck if your using the pink stuff- I never could get it to work on mine. Hope it does if thats the route you are going
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Old 02-15-2022, 06:34 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by powercat_ras View Post
Given your huge investment, I suggest you get someone with RV experience to help IN PERSON either someone you know or a mobile RV repair person.

Now that pipes and perhaps water heater tank are frozen, you may have to make repairs before you can try to use the water pump to winterize.

You may want to use your propane furnace to heat this will also heat the basement where the living space heaters don't put any heat into the basement where no doubt some of the frozen pipes and tanks are.

Thank you for your suggestion
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Old 02-15-2022, 07:19 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Americanrascal View Post
I just de-winterized my 38Q yesterday so I'll go in reverse. Washer first- its easy.

Simply open the washer and put about 1/2 gallon of RV antifreeze in the drum. Turn on the washer on spin cycle with the water supply turned off. That will circulate anti freeze through the lower pumps and guts.

When you start camping again make sure you run through a rinse cycle to remove it.

As far as water supply to the washer. Go to the lower rear drawer below the closet. Remove the drawer. You'll see a hole in the rear panel that will grants access to the valves for the washer. Turn them off. Unscrew the supply hoses and let them drain. You'll be fine on the washer at that point.

Again you save my bacon. My god when I grow up I wanna be just like you.

I found all other drains and everything I needed and have all the water out of the system. I will know for sure once I read the rest of your post.



I just went out and put 1/2 gal antifreeze in washer. Pump ran fine and discharged the antifreeze. phew
Only problem is that I can see the valves and the hoses but I cannot reach them. My plan is tomorrow to run antifreeze through them. We will see.
Why in the world don't they have a drain for them is beyond me
I will read more tomorrow as I am spending more time correctiong spelling thagn typing. Gotta take a break.


Thanks again I willl pick up here tomorrow
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Old 02-16-2022, 09:37 AM   #12
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PS- Grab and always carry a replacement neoprene plug for the hot water heater. They seem to always fail and blow out at the most inopportune time. They don't cost much and its great to have one in a drawer.
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Old 02-16-2022, 06:47 PM   #13
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Glad things are going well for you, did you figure out what was wrong with the valves, I think it was the WH bypass valve?
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Old 02-16-2022, 06:48 PM   #14
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Quote:
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PS- Grab and always carry a replacement neoprene plug for the hot water heater. They seem to always fail and blow out at the most inopportune time. They don't cost much and its great to have one in a drawer.
Really? Never happened to me and not even on my list of possibilities. Certainly nothing I carry as a spare.
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Old 02-16-2022, 08:07 PM   #15
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Has happened to me 2X. Once while I was away from the campground and came back to find it had blown out -cracked and failed and ran my tank- and the other happened at another campsite years later- different rig, while I was there. The CG was kind enough to go by and turn the water off on the first one when they saw it. The second issue was more of a "wear and tear" issue- it more or less worn out from use, heat and constant use and failed. I suspect I had cross threaded the second one at one point or another- easy to do on soft neoprene or nylon. The first one surprised me- it seemed to be in good shape

Saw a thread on IRv2 where a guy bought 12 of them (???) on Amazon for $7 to have on hand because of the problems with them. I don't think its that bad a problem but I do carry an extra plug because its miserable when they fail and you're in the middle of nowhere, or if they fail when someone wants hot water in the rig and you can't provide it.

They must be aware of it and somewhat common (???)as they (Camco) sell replacements by the pair for about $6. I've seen them at Walmart on the shelf.
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Old 02-17-2022, 08:32 AM   #16
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Thanks Everyone.

ATTEMPTING TO REPLY THREE TIMES.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Americanrascal View Post
Simply open the washer and put about 1/2 gallon of RV antifreeze in the drum. Turn on the washer on spin cycle with the water supply turned off. That will circulate anti freeze through the lower pumps and guts.

When you start camping again make sure you run through a rinse cycle to remove it.

As far as water supply to the washer. Go to the lower rear drawer below the closet. Remove the drawer. You'll see a hole in the rear panel that will grants access to the valves for the washer. Turn them off. Unscrew the supply hoses and let them drain. You'll be fine on the washer at that point.
As I had stated I cannot reach the shut off valves to be able to drain the water lines.

Because the bypass failed on the hot water heater fail I used 12 gallons of antifreeze after I have drained the tank only to read last night that if the water heater is full and I use the “flush” that the antifreeze will not go into the water heater it will go into the RV.

Anyway the end result is that the washer is winterized, hot and cold lines as well.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Americanrascal View Post
PS- Grab and always carry a replacement neoprene plug for the hot water heater. They seem to always fail and blow out at the most inopportune time. They don't cost much and its great to have one in a drawer.
I always have an extra one of those for sure.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tim myers View Post
Glad things are going well for you, did you figure out what was wrong with the valves, I think it was the WH bypass valve?
Everything is all good now as the beast is WINTERIZED.

I will never get caught like that again.

When we left Delaware in the TT it was completely winterized. We carried water jugs to use for everything Worked Great!

Bought the new rig and came home to freezing weather and little to no knowledge on the process.

Thank god for you people and the PDF file I found online.

I expect after I fix the bypass the next winterization will take about 3 gallons. ;^)

All is good again. Thanks everybody.
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Old 02-17-2022, 12:35 PM   #17
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Perhaps it will help folks if you see a Forum Quote tutorial... and how to responde to multiple parts of previous posts.

This YouTube is for some other forum - but it's using the same software we use. The buttons look different, but they are basically the same.

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Old 02-17-2022, 05:15 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by creativepart View Post
Perhaps it will help folks if you see a Forum Quote tutorial... and how to responde to multiple parts of previous posts.

This YouTube is for some other forum - but it's using the same software we use. The buttons look different, but they are basically the same.


I really appreciate your post but honestly it gave me a sick headache.
I copied the link and have it open in another page and will review it a few more times to try to follow it.



Again thanks for the suggestion as I really appreciate it.
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Old 02-20-2022, 08:05 PM   #19
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38Q Emergency Help

Sorry, just saw your post. Looks like your situation has hopefully been resolved without any damage to waterlines and tanks (hopefully didn't forget about gray & black tanks, and any liquid in the exit pipes to the dump valves. Not familiar with your particular rig but if you have a 'whole 'house' water filter, galley drinking water filter, ice maker line... they too may need winterizing attention. Don't know where you live in Delaware but almost any RV dealer could work you in for a job like this now. If you are in southern Delaware area there is a great RV Repair (no sales/ just repairs) in Pocomoke City, MD, Called Ken-Do. Bob, fellow Delawarean
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Old 02-21-2022, 05:55 AM   #20
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I drain the fresh water/holding tanks and water heater and then blow out the system using a $10 air compressor adapter running the compressor at about 15 psi. Run a short rinse and spin cycle on the washer when blowing out the lines to clear those. Then all I have to concern myself with is adding a little antifreeze to the traps.



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