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Old 05-31-2007, 06:11 AM   #1
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I am having a hard time figuring out how the water supply works on my motorhome. On the panel in the storage compartment, where I would tie into the city water supply, there is a valve. In one direction it reads "CITY WATER". I can then turn the valve 90 degrees to the sticker reads "WATER TANK FILL". The way I am using this, is that I am leaving the valve on city water all the time. My understanding is that the only time I would use "WATER TANK FILL" is if I were going to fill the tank via a hose running through the in line filter.

What if I have no city source for water and want to use what is in the water tank? Do I still leave the valve in the "CITY WATER" position?

The reason for these questions is that I seem to have no consistant pressure in the motorhome. The bathroom and shower in okay, but the faucet in the kitchen sink is very poor. I hear the pump cycling more that I would think is normal and many times get a hammering sound from it. I know that the pump was replaced before I took deliver from the previous owner and that there is an accumulator tank, but I have no idea if these pumps need to be primed somehow or maybe I am just missing something. I do know that when I got home from our trip on Monday I hooked up the hose from my house to the motor home and I had water flow comparable to that in my house.

Someone tell me what I am doing wrong here.
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Old 05-31-2007, 06:11 AM   #2
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I am having a hard time figuring out how the water supply works on my motorhome. On the panel in the storage compartment, where I would tie into the city water supply, there is a valve. In one direction it reads "CITY WATER". I can then turn the valve 90 degrees to the sticker reads "WATER TANK FILL". The way I am using this, is that I am leaving the valve on city water all the time. My understanding is that the only time I would use "WATER TANK FILL" is if I were going to fill the tank via a hose running through the in line filter.

What if I have no city source for water and want to use what is in the water tank? Do I still leave the valve in the "CITY WATER" position?

The reason for these questions is that I seem to have no consistant pressure in the motorhome. The bathroom and shower in okay, but the faucet in the kitchen sink is very poor. I hear the pump cycling more that I would think is normal and many times get a hammering sound from it. I know that the pump was replaced before I took deliver from the previous owner and that there is an accumulator tank, but I have no idea if these pumps need to be primed somehow or maybe I am just missing something. I do know that when I got home from our trip on Monday I hooked up the hose from my house to the motor home and I had water flow comparable to that in my house.

Someone tell me what I am doing wrong here.
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Old 05-31-2007, 06:21 AM   #3
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You are correct that you leave the valve in the 'City Water' position when you are using water from your holding tank. When using the pump, I also have good pressure at the bathroom sink and shower, less at the kitchen sink. It is acceptable at the kitchen but certainly noticeably less pressure. I just figured the pump only has so much 'guts' and the kitchen sink is the greatest distance causing more drop in pressure.

There will be a difference in pressure between the pump and most municipal water connections. However, there is a screen filter on the pump inlet that may need to be cleaned.
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Old 05-31-2007, 06:39 AM   #4
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I always had a difference in pressure between the kitchen faucet and every other faucet. Finally on a weekend with nothing better to do, I took the kitchen faucet apart.

I found 2 filters. Both of which had gunk in them. Cleaned them and have the pressure all the other faucets have.

If you haven't done this yet, you should consider doing it soon.
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Old 05-31-2007, 07:05 AM   #5
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Jim beat me to the punch on the kitchen faucet. I had the same problem, and eventually had almost no flow at all from the hot water side. When I took the Moen faucet apart, I found both screen filters badly plugged. A lot of the crud appeared to be tiny particles of blue silicon. It turned out Moen had some problem faucets in the 2002-2004 time frame. The blue particles came from a rubber diaphram in side the faucet that disintegrated, particularly on the hot side. I know many owners who have replaced the kitchen faucets, and many of them (I among them) received a new faucet from Moen at no charge. If your only low pressure area is the Moen kitchen faucet, you need to thoroughly check this out.

However, if you just have generally low pressure throughout the motorhome, particularly if that is just when using the water pump, it is likely just due to the low capacity of the pump. OEM pumps are normally 40 psi or lower, but volume, or gallons per minute (GPM), is also a big part of the picture. My OEM pump was rated at 2.8 gpm and maybe 40 psi. I replaced it with a 5.7 gpm pump that is set around 50 psi and like it much better. In fact, I often run it while showering when connected to shore water in RV parks because many of them have low pressure!

Another factor in low pressure when connected to a hydrant can be use of a smaller diameter water hose (1/2" vs 3/4"). You will get better flow (volume and pressure) from a larger diameter hose. Through it all, realize you are not likely to get water flow & water pressure in your RV like you have at home because your plumbing is likely smaller diameter in the RV, and also is not built to take higher pressures. But with a good water pump, the right hose, and a good pressure regulator, you can come close and be happy with what you have.

Speaking of pressure regulators, don't forget that you need to use a pressure regulator on your inlet hose. Some homes have higher pressure than your RV can handle. I've seen a couple RV parks with water pressure around 110psi!! That is enough to cause all kinds of leaks in most RVs. After buying a couple of cheap pressure regulators (basically flow restrictors) that plugged up soon, I got a Watts 3/4" whole house pressure regulator at Lowes along with hose bibs so I can use it on the water hose. It works great, and is adjustable.
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Old 05-31-2007, 08:39 AM   #6
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Where are the two filters located in the faucet?
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Old 05-31-2007, 10:58 AM   #7
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Where are the two filters located </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Hey, how are you liking the Adventurer?? I believe that's the most popular one Winnie makes!

Rather than "filters" they are actually described by Moen as "screen washers." If you pull the head out and take it loose from the flexible water line (don't turn loose of the water line!!), you should find one there. I can't recall off hand where the other one was ...I have a break-down diagram I got from the Moen website, and can't see it on there either (perhaps inside the aerator head?). To get to that screen washer or the aerator head, any "stuff" has to get through the cartridge chamber. The big plug that required replacement of my faucet was in the hot line into the cartridge chamber. There was no way to clear it out due to a sharp curve in the tubing as it enters the chamber.
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Old 05-31-2007, 11:54 AM   #8
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Thanks Paul,, I like the Adventurer just fine.
It ain't a diesel, but its a whole lot cheaper when it just sits in the yard.. Its a nice coach and in some ways it has more amenities than the Horizon...I keep up with you by reading your posts, Be safe,,,Jim
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Old 09-24-2007, 07:20 PM   #9
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by smlranger:
You are correct that you leave the valve in the 'City Water' position when you are using water from your holding tank.[QUOTE]
Does everyone agree with this?
I have terrible water pressure boondocking, you can use the faucets and tub,but don't plan on being in a hurry! The shower is just a trickle.
When I hook up to city water I can take a shower and more.
I replaced the pump-that was $80 I'll never see!
I removed and cleaned all the filters and screens I could find,and LIGHTLY backflushed the system. Overall pressure has increased.
I've always left the setting on internal tank when using the pump without city water.
HELP,I need a shower!
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Old 09-25-2007, 01:56 AM   #10
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Yes ,,leave the outside valve set on City Water.
If you leave it in the other position my pump runs all the time...I never change that valve unless I want to add water to my fresh water tank. Good Miles
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Old 09-25-2007, 07:38 AM   #11
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I agree with leaving the valve in the "City Water" position. On ours about 1/2 the volume or more gets recirculated back to the fresh water tank if the valve is left in the "Water Tank Fill" position.

I believe there's supposed to be a check valve in the system to prevent the water from recirculating, but you have to disassemble half the plumbing in the water compartment to get to it.

I would be careful with pressures above 40psi. Although the tube is rated higher I'm not sure what the fittings are rated for. It would be a rude awakening to find a tube popped out of a fitting in an inconvenient place like in the wall behind the shower or under the floor.
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Old 09-25-2007, 08:51 PM   #12
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AYE CARUMBA!!! Now I scrub all I want!
I went out and switched the valve and Viola! We've got pressure captain.
Ok, now...do you guys leave the pump switch turned on all the time? We were just turning it on when we needed water pressure.
Oh and-how do you make the system overall "quieter"?
I know, give me an inch and I'll take a mile...
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Old 09-26-2007, 02:35 AM   #13
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You will get different opinions about leaving the pump on or off. I leave mine on MOST of the time..If you have a ice maker and want ice and no city water you have to leave it on and if you want to use the commode then it has to be on.

Do what you are comfortable with...Noisy,,,Maybe EAR Plugs? I just live with it the way it is. Good Miles
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Old 09-26-2007, 03:15 AM   #14
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There are quieter aftermarket waterpumps available. They are fairly spendy in my opinion. Since most of our camping is where we can connect to shore power we just live with the noise.

You might, however take a look at the plumbing to the water pump is solid line. if so you might want to change the lines so that you insert some flexible line between the solid line and the water pump. This will help in transmitting the pump noise.
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Old 09-26-2007, 04:31 AM   #15
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I personally only turn the switch on when I need water. One of the reasons I hate that Winnie took the pump switch out of the bathroom. I don't think leaving it on serves any purpose and if a leak should occur, I will not have a flooded floor. IMHO
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Old 09-26-2007, 05:16 AM   #16
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We generally leave our pump on when were in or around the coach. When we leave it's just like turning off another light switch.

To deal with the constant on and off of the pump I installed an accumulator from Camping World in the line. Now you can run a small amount of water without the pump comming on and when you need a larger amount it cycles on and off at more regular intervals and always at full speed and pressure.
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Old 09-26-2007, 08:15 PM   #17
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Thanks guys! I wondered what the purpose of the accumulator was for.
I figured we would use the pump switch like we have been,on when we need it-off when we don't.
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