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Old 08-22-2019, 02:00 PM   #1
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Location: Richmond, VA area
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Question for 22M owners.

I'm used to having the gray and black waste gates near the connection for the stinky slinky, and in close proximity to the gray and black tanks.

I've just noticed on the 22M, the waste gates and gray and black water tanks are on the right side of the MH, and they are opened using a handle attached to a cable, attached to the waste gate opening.

Does anyone have problems with this arrangement from time to time?
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Old 08-23-2019, 12:15 AM   #2
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I follow the classic procedure for tank draining:
  • Connect the Stinky Slinky to the sewer dump using a clear elbow. Especially because of the long line, you need to monitor for clean effluent.
  • Open Black Water tank valve.
  • Connect the Black Water flushing hose & start flushing.
  • Wait for the water to run clean, as seen in your clear elbow.
  • Close Black Water tank valve with a really good slam, and back-fill your Black Water tank with your Black Water flushing hose for 60 seconds, to keep future droppings from sticking. Don't forget to add your tank treatment when you go back inside.
  • Open Grey Water tank valve.
  • Close Grey Water tank valve with a good slam, and wait for all water to drain from the horizontal sewer line. This could easily take 60 seconds.
I drain both tanks using the above sequence as I arrive at my campsite, and then I leave both valves closed until I'm ready to go in the morning, when I drain again. At 45 gallons, we never fill-up the grey tank overnight, and you'll need that source of Stinky Slinky flushing water.

Of course, you can just forget all of the above, and just follow the simple instructional video shown below.
Happy Flushing! Eagle5
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Old 08-23-2019, 05:49 AM   #3
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I know the procedure for dumping black & gray water tanks. Been doing it a long time with Class B's and TT's.

I'm asking if folks who have the type of dump mechanism that the 22M has, if that type caused undue problems.

All my ;previous RV's have had the valve near the outlet on the waste tanks. It's a straight mechanical pull on them.

The 22M has the pull handle attached via cable to the valves on the waste tanks which happen to be on the right side of the MH.

Does the cable system cause problems over time?
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Old 08-23-2019, 08:22 AM   #4
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That was the first thought I had when reading your post as I have recently read on this forum about the stuck valve and cable. Same system that many boats use for steering cables and if we don't keep them lubed, we have trouble. More trouble perhaps near water but I would still definitely want to keep that cable lubed as well as possible. Not looked at one but we would not be so lucky as they would put a mid-cable lube point in? Otherwise, I might just try soaking it with a thin lube and do it often.
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Old 08-23-2019, 08:47 AM   #5
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Yes, we have friends with a 22M. Purchased right at one year ago now. They have had constant problems with the cables and valves. Have had to crawl under and force the gate valves closed by hand each time, due to leakage. The cables have too much slack to push the valve closed tight enough to seal.
A couple of previous dealer repair attempts, with no satisfactory remedy. They have finally complained loudly enough Winnebago sent a factory rep to come take a look.
Currently in for service for the past 3 weeks, with now a 3rd attempt to fix this.
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Old 08-23-2019, 10:35 AM   #6
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I too had a problem with the design; I found that as the gate valves are physically eight feet away from the exit port that when ever I went to uncap the drainage pipe I woud get a small stream of water for the pipe. Like everyone else I flush the black first and then the grey watse but still not pleasant seeing liquid run out of the pipe onto the ground.
I solved the problem by installing an additional gate valve onto the end of the waste pipe. A Valtera T 58 Twist On Waste Valve. I purchased mine from Camping World but available everywhere. It acts as a safety shut off valve in case one of the valves aren't seated completley and deals with the inevitable left over discharge in the pipe. (Or if heaven forbid I forget to actually close on the drains)Took longer to open the package than it did to install it. It simply twists onto the waste pipe where your Stinky Slinky goes.

https://www.amazon.ca/Valterra-T58-T.../dp/B000BGHYJS
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Old 08-23-2019, 11:33 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AtleeH View Post
I'm used to having the gray and black waste gates near the connection for the stinky slinky, and in close proximity to the gray and black tanks.

I've just noticed on the 22M, the waste gates and gray and black water tanks are on the right side of the MH, and they are opened using a handle attached to a cable, attached to the waste gate opening.

Does anyone have problems with this arrangement from time to time?
Unfortunately ... that's not the best setup for long term reliability and ease of adjustment or repair if ever needed.

My 2005 Winnebago Itasca 24V Class C has it's grey/black waste tanks, their dump valves, and the dump valve handles right close to each other in the back on the driver's side of the coach. The valve handles connect directly to the valves via short solid steel rods - not cables. The tanks, their valves, and their valve handles are relatively high up off the ground and close to the rear axles for protection from departure-angle road surface hazards, with access to them via an enclosed steel lined cabinet that provides some protection from low outside temperatures and flying rock damage. The tanks themselves are electrically heated with 12 volt heating pads for either hookup or non-hookup cold weather camping. The warmed water in the tanks of course rests against the inside surfaces of the valves so that the valves themselves cannot freeze.

I'm curious: Our Itasca came with what Winnebago called at the time their "Cold Weather Package". Does Winnebago still offer this option on their new Class C models?
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Old 08-24-2019, 02:34 AM   #8
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Thanks for the replies. Long cable runs didn't sound as efficient as being able to directly pull the waste gate valve.

All RV's, be they MH or trailer, and across all makes and brands, have plenty of items that can and do go wrong. I would prefer to cut out as many potential problem areas as possible.

There are a lot of things to like about the Minnie Winnie and Spirit 22M model, including the way the walls and roof are interlocked, the fiberglass roof material, the U dinette instead of conventional dinette, the over 40 sq ft of outside storage space, and especially where the water pump and winterization controls are located. Another like, of course, and one that would be a deal killer for me if it were absent, is a front fiberglass cap that completely covers the forward facing seams on the bunk over on most Class C's.

But I suspect to get the over 40 sq ft of outside storage, the black and gray tanks were moved to the far right side, which introduces the long distance cable controlled waste gate valves, which is a don't like. Another big dislike is the fact a special factory order is needed to get the 22M built on an E-450 chassis instead of the E-350 chassis.
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Old 08-26-2019, 11:53 AM   #9
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Different Location on 2012 24M

Have 2012 24 M, both grey and black valve handles located in LR compartment near/above hose connectors. Risky due to proximity to fresh water inlet, external spray hose and fill valve.
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Old 09-04-2019, 09:53 AM   #10
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There is always some fluid in the pipe on the 22m between the tanks and the discharge opening. Whether it is an incomplete closure of the valve or some type of capillary action you still have some fluid you have to deal with. One solution is the extra Valterra valve mentioned above which works well, however, the discharge opening is already fairly close to the ground and the addition of that valve and a cap makes it even lower which could be scrapped on something. Another alternative that I am now using is a Valterra clear cover that fits on the discharge opening which also has a small hose size cap attached. First, it shows you how much fluid you have and second you can unscrew that hose size cap while holding your emptying hose and drain the liquid in a controlled manner until the excess is gone. Then you just pull the full cap and attach to emptying hose and empty both tanks. The advantage is you dont change the clearance of the pipe any. Yes it creates an extra step but it is easy to do.
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