steering stabalizer

[feiter]

1/2” drive air gun capable of 250# torque is only $19.99 at Harbor Freight tools. Need decent compressor however

[YGoHom]

Originally Posted by feiter

1/2” drive air gun capable of 250# torque is only $19.99 at Harbor Freight tools. Need decent compressor however

I just threw away a HF corded electric impact with a higher rating than that. It couldn't even do lug nutz.
I bought a 20v cordless DeWalt 700# (1200lb break away) impact gun that kicks ass. About $200 tho

[Gordiegaffer]

You will love the Saf-T-Plus just put it on mine before a 1200 mile trip what a difference the thing is fun to drive now

[feiter]

Originally Posted by feiter

Going to order Roadmaster sway bar, bracket and Steering stabilizer for self installation. Whay new shocks? Really necessary? What about rear sway bar? Needed? Mine is 2018 Intent 26M

First would like to reply regarding SafeTPlus or Roadmaster. Currently the Roadmaster product for my Intent is not available anywhere nationwide and two distributors advised going back into production and not available for 5-7 weeks...this was after I was told mine was shipped and would arrive in 7-10 days! SafeTPlus provided me with correct part numbers for all their products, links to installation videos, and recommendations for alignment and installation in my area.

Sooooo...before adding anything I decided to take another ride and give a honest evaluation of the current ride. Is it driving the way I want it to? Answer..NO! Even on the most level and straight piece of freeway I could find and center lane I experience hard pull to right with hands off...in some cases, no doubt depending on road conditions, it actually pulled left but not as hard. I also had far too much play in the steering wheel itself and was fighting to keep the vehicle straight.

Decided to get an alignment prior to doing anything. SafeTPlus recommended Alignment Plus in San Marcos CA (San Diego County, Alignment Plus brake, alignment suspension specialists) so I called. Was able to take coach in immediately and within 2 hours received call with all the current statistics/measurements and a quote of work to be done. The manager, Ray, advised their goal is to assure my RV runs true and straight and they will not only adjust steering but level the coach to frame to assure rear push forward. Next morning we took evaluation ride together and I was AMAZED at results...no more pull, very little steering wheel pull and better, smother ride. Cost was $750 but I did require shims under leaf springs and some other parts. Well worth the cost. Please note Alignment Plus is certified installer of SafeTPlus product as well as Koni Shocks and after 15 years doing RV work they will not install any other products.

So, knowing I have a straight riding vehicle I took on installation of the Roadmaster 1139140 1 3/4" sway bar..weighs in about 60 pounds and noticeably heavier and larger than stock bar. I expected 2 hour job. Took me over 3 hours just to get old bar off. Almost impossible to get any leverage on nuts when laying flat on back on cement. Even using a 20" 1/2" drive breaker bar took forever. After getting 4 of 6 bolts out I had to use torch to heat remaining 2 on Passenger side to FINALLY break them loose.

Installation took about an hour but did make one mistake...because of "cheap fix" moving from outer to the inward hold, I tried to initially install the new bar on the inner..will not work without getting extended length end lengths to attache to. So, what I thought would be 2 hours actually took 5! Also, at 70 I now know I have no business spending any time under my RV let alone 5 hours!!! Just about killed me and I have sore muscles everywhere.

It may just be wishful thinking after all that work but I really do think the efforts yield much improvement...coach used to sway back and forth after going over uneven roads and while the initial sway is still there the movement is limited to first sway and back and forth movement is little if any.

While I was under the coach I did spend about 30 minutes trying to loosen the 1 1/8" nuts on the spring U Bolts that the Steering Stabilizer bracket attaches too...these nuts are supposed to be torqued at 250 ft pounds while the sway bar is only 125...If I could not loosen the smaller nuts I knew I was not going to bet the bolts off for the Stabilizer Installation. Being to the rear of the crossmember/axel and not in front as Sway Bar is, the ability to get at the nuts is less.

I received my SafeTPlus Stabilizer from Amazon yesterday and called Ray back at Alignment Plus and they are installing for me on Monday!!! Will also have them verify Sway Bar is centered correctly and all nuts are at proper torque.

Regarding Shocks...Had not seen Koni mentioned on this board but have checked them out since recommendation by Alignment Plus...wow, they seem to be the only way to go (KONI NA | Motorhome) as they now have new Frequency Response shocks...this is from their web site: "The first shock absorber that offers superior handling without compromising comfort.
You can´t find a better shock for your motorhome than FSD: KONI frequency selective dampers. We have combined the benefits of performance and comfort into one shock absorber. FSD is firm for control over large bumps and corners, but soft for comfort over expansion joints and rough roads. While KONI is known to reduce bouncing in motorhomes, our FSD shocks include a special valve that filters out annoying vibrations before they enter the coach. The result is an incredibly smooth ride, with plenty of shock left to control pitching and swaying."

Fronts and rears are about $750 for our Intents not including installation.

This is a future investment for me for sure.

Sorry I did not record the installation as promised...just too much video and too many expletives I would need to edit.

[feiter]

You are a very smart man YGOHOME and you have my complete attention to all your comments from now on! Thanks for the insight and feedback.

[YGoHom]

Originally Posted by feiter

You are a very smart man YGOHOME and you have my complete attention to all your comments from now on! Thanks for the insight and feedback.

Thanks, but nope! I just research the experiences of others to minimize my own learning from trial and error.
I didn't realize that you are also in Oceanside. You could have borrowed my tools!

We need to talk more about "leveling the coach to the frame". I was just looking at mine yesterday thinking about doing exactly that.
With a full tank of gas and half tank of fresh water, the front end is a little floaty and requires more attention to the steering wheel to keep it from wandering. Typical of any vehicle with a light front end.

Currently, the rear is axle UNDER the leaf springs, with 2 leaf shims lifting the rear. The front is axle OVER the leaf springs, with 2 shims lowering the front. I think there's plenty of u-bolt threads left to add a shim front and rear.

We really don't have any means of moving weight forward with our shorty 26'rs. Even our side storage compartments are closer to the rear.

I'm adding a 3rd and possibly a 4th propane bottle (wire looms may be in the way) and will eventually put an additional 2 batteries near the existing ones.

Aside from stuff like that, shifting the weight is the only solution.

-Robb

[YGoHom]

Originally Posted by feiter

Regarding Shocks...Had not seen Koni mentioned on this board but have checked them out since recommendation by Alignment Plus...wow, they seem to be the only way to go (KONI NA | Motorhome) as they now have new Frequency Response shocks...this is from their web site: "The first shock absorber that offers superior handling without compromising comfort.
You can´t find a better shock for your motorhome than FSD: KONI frequency selective dampers. We have combined the benefits of performance and comfort into one shock absorber. FSD is firm for control over large bumps and corners, but soft for comfort over expansion joints and rough roads. While KONI is known to reduce bouncing in motorhomes, our FSD shocks include a special valve that filters out annoying vibrations before they enter the coach. The result is an incredibly smooth ride, with plenty of shock left to control pitching and swaying."

Fronts and rears are about $750 for our Intents not including installation.

This is a future investment for me for sure.

I spoke with a KONI sales rep regarding their shocks for an F53 and my personal experience with Bilstien shocks (I took them off after a very LONG 150 mile trip)
Bilstein supplies one shock that fits ALL rears and one for ALL fronts... regardless of coach weight or length. That's BS.

I have plenty of experience in off road suspension, and common sense, that dictates that a shock properly designed for a 22,000lb coach is not going to work the same on a 16,000lb coach.

Guess what? KONI does the same thing.
It was explained to me how their technology is superior, but...they too only have one shock that fits all.

"Thank you for contacting us here at KONI NA. We too use the same shocks for all 1999-2018 Ford F-53 chassis however our shock design and its construction offers a far more desirable ride quality over a most all other brands in the market."

Btw... Iv'e done some reading and found quite a few people that found them to be too harsh on shorter coaches. I guess I'm good with the stock shocks. They are one hell of a lot smoother that the Bilsteins were. They really tried to rattle the RV apart driving down the 15 from Corona. I couldn't wait to get home and take them off. Luckily the vendor took them back.


I was given the correct part numbers for the new KONI FSD shocks if anyone is interested. They're $179.10 each.
This is the link given to me by the KONI rep.
https://www.koni-na.com/en-US/NorthA...619&mk=75&mt=9

[feiter]

Originally Posted by YGoHom

Thanks, but nope! I just research the experiences of others to minimize my own learning from trial and error.
I didn't realize that you are also in Oceanside. You could have borrowed my tools!

We need to talk more about "leveling the coach to the frame". I was just looking at mine yesterday thinking about doing exactly that.
With a full tank of gas and half tank of fresh water, the front end is a little floaty and requires more attention to the steering wheel to keep it from wandering. Typical of any vehicle with a light front end.

Currently, the rear is axle UNDER the leaf springs, with 2 leaf shims lifting the rear. The front is axle OVER the leaf springs, with 2 shims lowering the front. I think there's plenty of u-bolt threads left to add a shim front and rear.

We really don't have any means of moving weight forward with our shorty 26'rs. Even our side storage compartments are closer to the rear.

I'm adding a 3rd and possibly a 4th propane bottle (wire looms may be in the way) and will eventually put an additional 2 batteries near the existing ones.

Aside from stuff like that, shifting the weight is the only solution.

-Robb

Robb...of the $745 alignment cost $241 was to purchase and install what they call 4.0" & 3.0" Caster wedges on each side and "recenter" steering wheel. While under the coach doing the track bar the new wedges were prominent below the springs. They also charged $134 to "set rear track"

Have you had yours aligned?

Wish I would have known we are both so close also but kind of happy to never do that kind of work again.

Thanks again for input.

Bill

[feiter]

YGOHOME...did you ever add the rear bumper you were talking about? Seems prudent to do. Also, are you towing 4 down? Thinking about getting a Mini to tow before we head out on our round trip to Michigan in late April or early May.

[YGoHom]

Thanks for the info. I'd love to stop by and see what they did. I'll PM you later today.

Yes, I did the bumper. It adds to the rear weight and therefore adds to the need of moving weight forward.

I'm picking up a spare rim tomorrow.
I posted pics of the bumper in the other thread..."All Intents and..." page 5

[YGoHom]

Originally Posted by feiter

YGOHOME...did you ever add the rear bumper you were talking about? Seems prudent to do. Also, are you towing 4 down? Thinking about getting a Mini to tow before we head out on our round trip to Michigan in late April or early May.

I tow my Jeep 4 down using the Ready Brute Elite tow bar. It's a great all-in-one tow and brake system.

I've had MANY cars, and my 2007 MINI was one of my favorites!

[ottojf]

What tire pressure are you carrying front and rear

[tim myers]

Originally Posted by JoeC

I upgraded my whole suspension on a 2015 Itasca Spirit 27QP; Sumo springs, sway bars front and rear, Bilstein Shocks and 10 psi less tire pressure in the rear. It drives much flatter around corners and the ride is smoother (not smooth), mostly due to lower tire pressure, but the trucks and crosswinds still have their way with me. My question is: Do the steering stabilizers REALLY help reduce being pushed around by wind and big rigs?

I put a track bar system on my 2015 Fleetwood Storm, it was like night and day in reducing side to side movement when being passed by a truck being hit with a cross wind.



I installed an Ultratrack, but any of them will help a lot.