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Old 08-06-2014, 03:04 PM   #1
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Need basement air conditioner help

We're in a campground with outside temps in the 93-96 degrees and I just realized it's almost 80 here in the coach.
When I checked the Energy Management System I see I'm only drawing 15 amps, so I must just be running on one compressor.
Is it more than likely just the #1 compressor is all that's running, and will the #2 compressor start first if there's a problem with the #1 not starting?

I checked the breaker switch at the foot of the bed for the #2 compressor and nothing happened when I re-set it. Didn't want to mess with the #1 compressor breaker if it's the one running now.

The AC ran a lot during the night and it was 73 inside even by 10, I left the coach about 1 and returned about 3 which was when I noticed it was getting a little warmish inside.

Any suggestions on what else to check, and whether or not there's anything I can do in a campground?

This is in a 2004 Meridian with the basement air conditioner, which I just had it worked on at Forest City in May 2013.
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Old 08-06-2014, 03:22 PM   #2
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I assume you are connected to 30amp if you can read 15 amp on your EMS. On 50 amp you will not have a display of amps. If this is the case, it maybe the EMS has shut down one of the compressors on your AC. I have had problems in the past with the EMS. I would check to see if you have power to both compressors first, when the t-stat is 3 deg above set point. Sometimes you can dis-connect the power, wait a few sec and this may reset the EMS.
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Old 08-06-2014, 03:43 PM   #3
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Turn all appliances off including the hot water heater and see if the second compressor kicks on after the delay.
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Old 08-06-2014, 03:47 PM   #4
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Have you tried running the air off of generator power and then check to see how many AMPs your pulling? As kstrails said, if your plugged into 30 AMP power, you may not be able to run both compressors because the EMS will shed power in order to keep you from popping breakers. Also on my last trip out, my Air Conditioner seemed like it was not cooling properly. Lucky for me I had a brand new thermostat that I had ordered a while ago and after replacing the old one with the new, everything went back to normal.

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Old 08-06-2014, 04:09 PM   #5
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Sammie has a good idea about running the generator first to see if this solves the problem. That would answer if the A/C OR compressor has a problem. If running the generator solves this, then either you are shedding load by the EMS or maybe the EMS is bad.
The EMS has led lights on the output however you have to remove the 120v electrical panel to see them.
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Old 08-06-2014, 04:16 PM   #6
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I was originally hooked up to 50A when I noticed the problem of not enough cooling. I shut everything down and changed the cord to the 30A so I could read the Energy Management to see whether or not I was drawing enough amps for both compressors to be working, and I wasn't. I had even changed the frig to LP with nothing else drawing power.
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Old 08-06-2014, 04:28 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wagonmaster2 View Post
I was originally hooked up to 50A when I noticed the problem of not enough cooling. I shut everything down and changed the cord to the 30A so I could read the Energy Management to see whether or not I was drawing enough amps for both compressors to be working, and I wasn't. I had even changed the frig to LP with nothing else drawing power.
Just for kicks, try running the generator. With the generator running, you will be able to see how many Amps your pulling. I'm currently trying to help my buddy who can only run one air from shore power and I think we may have narrowed down his problem to a bad power cord adapter. He can run both air conditioners off his generator but only one on shore power.

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Old 08-06-2014, 04:36 PM   #8
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I'll try the gen after supper, the wife will kill me if shut off the power now. I know everything is supposed to be automatic when changing from shore to gen power but I tripped a house fuse several years ago doing that so now I shut everything off then unhook shore power before starting the gen. I suppose it's possible my 50A surge protector could also be giving problems. I'll try connecting my 50A cord direct to the shore post.
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Old 08-06-2014, 06:54 PM   #9
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Having read that the slide switch for Cool/Off/Heat is a weak spot I wiggled it back/forth to start with the easy fixes first then I heard a click and could tell very shortly that the air coming out the vent was definitely cooler. In a couple hours the inside temp has dropped from 82 down to 75. Before when I put a thermomater in the ceiling vent it would only come down to 70, but now it reads 50.
Guess I'd better get a new thermostat on order.
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Old 08-06-2014, 07:46 PM   #10
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Glad you found the problem. It is strange that only one compressor would operate. You would think that when the t-stat makes contact that only one circuit signal is sent to the A/C control board. Maybe it was just a weak signal.
Hope that is the fix.
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Old 08-06-2014, 07:50 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wagonmaster2 View Post
Having read that the slide switch for Cool/Off/Heat is a weak spot I wiggled it back/forth to start with the easy fixes first then I heard a click and could tell very shortly that the air coming out the vent was definitely cooler. In a couple hours the inside temp has dropped from 82 down to 75. Before when I put a thermomater in the ceiling vent it would only come down to 70, but now it reads 50.
Guess I'd better get a new thermostat on order.
Glad you were able to find an easy fix. Call Lichtsinn Motors 1-800-343-6255 and ask for Lonnie in the Winnebago Parts Dept. Your year model coach takes a newer thermostat along with an adapter cord to replace your old one. Don't worry cause it will fit in the same place and looks exactly the same as the old one. Be sure to have your Winnebago Coach serial number when you make the call.

Lichtsinn Motors - Iowa RV Parts - Iowa RV Accessories - Located in Forest City, Iowa


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Old 08-06-2014, 09:31 PM   #12
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I found a replacement thermostat at Amazon for $143 and at Makarias RV for $105 (it comes with instructions for changing from a 3 pin plug to a 4 pin plug. Just to make sure it's the right one I need to remove my old one and read the model number off the back of the thermostat. but I don't want to fiddle with it any more until I get home. Sure don't want to be without AC for the rest of my week's stay in this temperature.
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Old 08-07-2014, 07:40 AM   #13
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Wagonmaster2

A new thermo may not help. From your description, it looks a if the 2 degree differential in your thermo is intermittent or not working. This 2 degree is the kickoff for the second compressor. If your new thermo does not have that feature, your second compressor will not turn on. Since you may have seen that the second compressor turned on after shaking it, check the wires coming out of the thermo for a loose connection. Can talk more if you call me at 719-487-7392.

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Old 08-08-2014, 10:07 AM   #14
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Hello fellow Basement Air Owners,

Yesterday, our local RV tech replaced my basement air with a new one from Coleman. Compressor had gave up the ghost. Super job. Took about 2 hours to pull one and install the new one.

I had purchased the MH in 2010 with 14K miles and had changed a/c filters religiously. And when I washed the MH I made sure to rinse down the outside coils.

HOWEVER! Upon inspection of the old unit, I discovered the internal coils were packed with dust and debris despite the changing of a/c filters. The RV tech said that this contributed to the compressor failure. That I should have lifted the bed, removed the filter, and rinsed the internal condensing coils with a water hose. The water would have drained out the bottom of the pan.

Most RV chronic expenses are self inflicted due to IGNORANCE, OR BEING IN A HURRY. Please learn by my mistake and rinse those coils at least every quarter to keep the a/c running effeciently as possible. DO NOT USE COIL CLEANER AS IT WILL CAUSE THE PAN TO CORRODE!

Most of you basement a/c experts out there probably knew this already, but I'm betting that a few will appreciate the heads up.

Your humble RV driver,

Phil
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